hey i have a debate on which to buy first... what will i feel more power gains with as my first engine mod?

 

Well, you would certainly not go wrong with either choice, but I would go with the NW Dual first. My reasoning is 2-fold. First, the stock Y-pipe going into the throttle body is so restrictive. It seriously robs your SRT of existing HP. The CAI will allow the car to breathe the way it should have from the beginning. Second, the CAI will allow you to hear the sweet sound of the SC..... putting a smile on your face every time you get on it.

Both will give you significant HP gains, but for me, the CAI gave me the best butt dyno results, and the most grin for the buck.

I hope this helps.

 

agree with bob. to really feel the effects of the c3 a tune is needed. the dual cai is better bang for the buck.
having said all that i wouldnt do either first!!
the most important mods you can do at the beginning is cooling mods. supercooler upgraded i/c pump 180 tstat, -10 * fan mod and separating the system will ensure any future mods perform to their peak expectations.
all the cooling mods cost approx 650$ and while it provides no hp inc. it does ensure the power you have will be there when you want it!

 

You want bang for the buck do a single NW and C3 pulley, 50hp instantly for minimal investment.

 

+1 Good point. Especially if you can find a used C3 for $350-400. That will put you in the same price range as a dual NW with more benefits.

 

They be right on the money...

 

OK, this is why this forum can be interesting. I don't agree at all and here is why...when I added a single cai, my times dropped from low 13's to mid to high 12's, added the code 3 pulley, times dropped to mid 12's, added a tune, times dropped to low 12's, absolutely not one cooling mod. There are old fashion ways to cool, just a few bags of ice on the sc area between runs. The cooling mods are grt, and they work, but as stated, they add 0 HP...You need to start by learning which direction you want to build HP< on who you believe has the right path by looking on here, and reading, learning the times everyone is running with their particular mods...then start down that path...I have added the dual cai, and dropped another 2/10's...still 0 cooling mods...I am separating the system on the new car build...I will do the exact same mods to the coupe, but will add meth, and separate the cooling system....spend your money wisely, go for HP 1st, then fight the heat soak later....just my .02....

 

Doc, I generally agree with Steve(32Krazy!), but I am with you on this one. I have yet to do any cooling mods. Once I get the raw HP and torque I want, then I can worry about cooling mods. You are right, A 10lb bag of ice sitting on top of the SC will do wonders for heat soak. I have not done complete homework on this yet, but as of right now, I think my first cooling mod will be meth. I think I will get more from meth as a cooling mod than I will with separating the cooling system. If i am wrong on this, please let me know. I am not far away from making this decision, and want to do it right the first time. Thanks

 

I'm with Doc....if your not road racing or doing 1/4 after 1/4 run you don't need the cooling mods.

 

Meth will be last resort for me...but I will do the separation and maybe a tank in line with ice/dry ice...kind of thing...but holding off on meth until the very end...

 

agree,,agree,, and agree but, idid all the above ,yet had to cool down between runs,, once i got the cooling mod and the PTE theromstat my temp stays below the 1/2 way mark,, as for the track i made a 4 round ,,round robin first run 8:01pm 12.29,, 2 run 8:12 pm 12.26,, 3 run 8:19 12. 31 4 run 8:26 pm 12.29 again and i could have kept going if needed,,, Rmaderman has been doing this for months. this to me makes the cooling mod well worth the money. jim

 

Well, it looks like we can all agree to agree to some point. Finally, it is all relative to the amount of money at your disposal. If financial resources are of no concern, then by all means go for the gusto. If you are more like me and have to do things incrementally, I would much rather have my car run low 12s with heat soak problems, than have a 13 sec car that stays cool. I will have to address it eventually, but at least I am running with the big dawgs in the mean time.

 

I agree the cooling mods work, no doubt about it, especially if you are running back to back with no time to cool down...and will get there someday, but that isn't what I personally would want to do first...that was the question. I know the 'vert has a 12.1-12.2 in it without the cooling. My launches the night I had the 12.3 wasn't that good, and the place was packed, so I only had 2 passes. The 'vert will get there, but I have the coupe to bring up to power now...so, it is on hold. Again, first dollars I would spend would be on a dual cai of some type, preferably Rob's. My next big expenditure would be whatever pulley set-up you like, and course a tune, if you are done at that point. Tune should come last, after you are done. For example, if you were to chose meth/nitrous, you would want that on before your tune, now, you need gauges to know what is happening to help with the tune...so the $$$$$$ can just add up. You have to plot a course, and stay with it until you reach your peak, or where you want to stop spending...lol...everyone here has their own path...some are still searching, some still finding other ways, tranny mods, rearend mods.....get out your checkbook baby...it can get expensive...lol

 

Your right Doc, it does get expensive. Sometimes it makes me want to get a 5.0 GT to mod. Much cheaper to mod them. No..... Wait...... What am I thinking....... I am not a lemming...... I do dare to be different! LOL

 

let me expand just a bit. my cooling mods were of neccesity. pump went first then in the middle of summer i was running at 90 to 100* C around town! forget about racing. since my cooling mods i have had zero s/c shutdown and im now in the 75 to 80* range all day long and can race all nite long.
its my opinion this route helps in the longevity of the engine overall because face it aluminum blocks and heads really dont like high temps.
i value all the opinions posted and if i had to choose i would still do it with cooling mods first. wait i did!!
im not sure of all the tracks but i do know there are some tracks that frown on bagging ice in the staging lanes due to the water dripping everywhere. the streetlegal drags im going to run this yr doesnt allow any pit access for the winners. you are hot lapping until your beat or win the final in your class. any pit stop is an auto dq

 

Well, there you have it...opinions, that's all....it's up to you now how you mod....
Never had a problem in the pits, and I am the one who learned from them...never owned a SC until now
Never had an over heating problem as well
Heat soak, does rob power, no doubt about it...and I have a plan when it becomes necessary, but hasn't yet....
Still planning on getting the 'vert to an 11.99, but the coupe will get the most focus now, and there will be some cooling mods there...and the coupe is 400lbs lighter...so, add-ons won't hurt...
Good luck on your decisions, there will always be opinions and differences, but it's your $$$$$$$$$$$$$...

 

what are the Hp difference bewteen dual NW and single NW intake?

 

I dropped another 1/10th after switching out, but I don't have the dyno #s...but the low end performance is obvious...I wouldn't have thought there would be that much difference, but there was...good luck...mod away....
I improved my 60' times as well, it's 3rd gear where I am falling off...we are working on that on the vert...coupe is not even started yet....

 

YO!

Separating the cooling system is FREE!

Ok you may need a hose clamp or so but it may as well be FREE!

Cooling mods for all my friends! (even the ones' w/BLACK XFs)

 

Doc, I have my cooling system separated. Mezier surge tank and using the factory tank for the IC with a CM30 and LET HE. I tried using ice at the track between runs and it does help. But I can sit for 30 mins and get cooled waaaay down. Enough so that my next run is good but if I hot lap, the following run (with the engine at temp) is better.

What I need is to get my IAT down significantly with the engine at good operating temp. Either a big aux tank for the IC with COLD water or some meth seem like viable options.....