I am working to get rid of the rear end slop !!
I am working to get rid of the rear end slop !!
Was thinking that I have not found a rear sway bar to improve the handling of the C.
Well I decided to see what I could do with "off the shelf" parts to get an improvement.
Off the shelf took on a new meaning when I went to the mother hubbard cubbard to find some bushings left over from my 1988 daytona. Turns out that I had a new set of 19mm sway bar bushings for the old dodge made of polyurethane. Note the number on the box.
Photos show some of the steps taken to get them in the rear of the C. I started by pulling off the rear wheels and did the work from the side with a minimum of old english 'terms'.
THe support braces of this bushing KIT fit the C without modification and its a drop in with a little planning. THe rear bar is just right for this to fit and offers a wider and firmer bushings / support brace.........Neat-o.
Take off the nuts of both sides and slip off the braces and the soft factory rubber bushings. The bolt on the front screw of the passenger side is tight but without the wheel, a universal joint eases the removal operation.
Lube the internal surface of the poly bushing with the included grease and use the new wider bracket. Its a bit of work to get the bushing supports on and start the bolts but it can be done if you are careful. DO the passenger side first, then before tightning , do the driver side. When both sides are on I tighten them up and then take off the bolts one at a time and add a lock washer and retighten. Its too hard for me to start the nut with the washer on first, so I get the brackets tightened and re add a lock washer to each bolt, one at a time.
THe lock washer is to allow the shouldered factory bolt to be tightened without hitting the thicker support bracket. The u shaped bracket gets too wide at the bottom, and the washer keeps the bolt up off the bracket.
Finally the brake sensor support bracket is installed over the bracket bolt with another 8mm 1.25 nut as shown on the photo. This allows it to be anchored easily without the stress of trying to place this support under the original bracket nut.
Overall l got a stronger and wider support brace with stiffer urethane bushing to help anchor the sway bar more securely, and make it stiffer. Now the car will get the front bar upgraded as soon as I can find materials that fit the front end.
If someone finds better bars, well then Ill go that way too, enjoy, WOODY
BTW the urethane bushing is way stiffer than the factory rubber. They all have the bushings split to allow them to be slipped off and on.
Well I decided to see what I could do with "off the shelf" parts to get an improvement.
Off the shelf took on a new meaning when I went to the mother hubbard cubbard to find some bushings left over from my 1988 daytona. Turns out that I had a new set of 19mm sway bar bushings for the old dodge made of polyurethane. Note the number on the box.
Photos show some of the steps taken to get them in the rear of the C. I started by pulling off the rear wheels and did the work from the side with a minimum of old english 'terms'.
THe support braces of this bushing KIT fit the C without modification and its a drop in with a little planning. THe rear bar is just right for this to fit and offers a wider and firmer bushings / support brace.........Neat-o.
Take off the nuts of both sides and slip off the braces and the soft factory rubber bushings. The bolt on the front screw of the passenger side is tight but without the wheel, a universal joint eases the removal operation.
Lube the internal surface of the poly bushing with the included grease and use the new wider bracket. Its a bit of work to get the bushing supports on and start the bolts but it can be done if you are careful. DO the passenger side first, then before tightning , do the driver side. When both sides are on I tighten them up and then take off the bolts one at a time and add a lock washer and retighten. Its too hard for me to start the nut with the washer on first, so I get the brackets tightened and re add a lock washer to each bolt, one at a time.
THe lock washer is to allow the shouldered factory bolt to be tightened without hitting the thicker support bracket. The u shaped bracket gets too wide at the bottom, and the washer keeps the bolt up off the bracket.
Finally the brake sensor support bracket is installed over the bracket bolt with another 8mm 1.25 nut as shown on the photo. This allows it to be anchored easily without the stress of trying to place this support under the original bracket nut.
Overall l got a stronger and wider support brace with stiffer urethane bushing to help anchor the sway bar more securely, and make it stiffer. Now the car will get the front bar upgraded as soon as I can find materials that fit the front end.
If someone finds better bars, well then Ill go that way too, enjoy, WOODY
BTW the urethane bushing is way stiffer than the factory rubber. They all have the bushings split to allow them to be slipped off and on.
Re: Iam working to get rid of the rear end slop !!
Why so much effort to correct the rear camber and sway bar slop???????????HHhuuuummm?
One photo is good for 1000 words eh? Dems is wires sticking out in one spot.
Be sure to zoom in on this photo to see the stripe on the otherwise good slick from autocrossing. Others have reported this effect also..........
Here are more photos and I invite you all to look into the album to see more of the steps I photographed for you. All free info, incase your interested, Enjoy, W DY
One photo is good for 1000 words eh? Dems is wires sticking out in one spot.
Be sure to zoom in on this photo to see the stripe on the otherwise good slick from autocrossing. Others have reported this effect also..........
Here are more photos and I invite you all to look into the album to see more of the steps I photographed for you. All free info, incase your interested, Enjoy, W DY
Last edited by waldig; 09-07-2009 at 05:56 PM.
Re: Iam working to get rid of the rear end slop !!
have you seen the H&R sway bars listed on tirerack for the SLK? 30mm in front, 20mm in rear, would 1mm in diameter make a lot of difference? it could be a slightly different type of steel.....
H&R Anti-Roll Bar
H&R Anti-Roll Bar
Re: Iam working to get rid of the rear end slop !!
Originally Posted by waldig
Why so much effort to correct the rear camber and sway bar slop???????????HHhuuuummm?
One photo is good for 1000 words eh? Dems is wires sticking out in one spot.
Be sure to zoom in on this photo to see the stripe on the otherwise good slick from autocrossing. Others have reported this effect also..........
Here are more photos and I invite you all to look into the album to see more of the steps I photographed for you. All free info, incase your interested, Enjoy, W DY
One photo is good for 1000 words eh? Dems is wires sticking out in one spot.
Be sure to zoom in on this photo to see the stripe on the otherwise good slick from autocrossing. Others have reported this effect also..........
Here are more photos and I invite you all to look into the album to see more of the steps I photographed for you. All free info, incase your interested, Enjoy, W DY
Please tell me these are different hoosiers than the ones you had last year at MIR that were ALREADY BEAT AND BALD THEN!?!?! Remember I was telling you that you had no tread left and that was your traction issues? :P
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