Using Equus 3130 => P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit - Does any body have more specific ideas on what could be causing this? It sounds like what Bulldogger suggested..."Missing and surging is an air leak, could be around the intake plenums, super charger gasket or more then likely if the intercooler under the supercharger was replaced it could be leaking there. Missing and bad idle will be caused by an intercooler air leak. More then likely the dealer used the double gasket with no silicone sealent or didn't torque the bolts to 18 ft/lb", but I am open to other suggestions.

I just completed a nice 140 mile run today, filled the tank with gas, and was about 2 miles from my house. At a stopsign I dropped it into 1st and floored it. As I backed off around 70, I heard a metallic screech. It continued the rest of the way home. Parked it and popped the hood -- it was surging and idling high, with frequent misses and some mild backfire. I let it sit for two hours and started it again...the idle was rough again with continuous misses. The CEL is now on.

Any ideas what could have happened? This is not like the intercooler problem -- already had that replaced.

 

Just a wee bit more info. Which car and what mods if any?

 

intake manifold gasket blue out,,, or the super charger imploaded,, if it was the srt6 u were driving. look at the super charger pully ,, see if it is turinig,, better yet see if you can stop the dark brown part of the SC pully if no then you have found your problem. jim

 

SRT6. Yes, the s/c pulley is turning normally. With the engine off, I can rotate the black/brown band around the pulley (above where the serpentine goes on). Nothing is leaking. No smoke or steam. Engine oil is good -- checked for foam and it it just oil. No mods at all, running Mobil 0W-40, and factory warranty expired 3/2009. I don't want to drive it 3 miles to Autozone for the codes -- I'd rather buy a code reader if anyone has any suggestions.

 

Ihave actron cp9125 it reads and clears codes i got it at pepboys under 50.00 on sale ,, the only thing i don't like is the cord is only 15" long, but it does work good, jim again

 

pull your belt off and manually spin the accessories. Maybe a bearing went out on something. Hopefully nothing major.

 

I have the Innova 3130 and it works fine for my XF, Intrepid and the kids cars. Reset codes, some short data logging. Gives the code number and the meaning. Just google Innova 3130. Several sellers.

 

Goldwing,

Please be sure to let us know what the final diagnosis is. I hope it is not too serious.

 

Missing and surging is an air leak, could be around the intake plenums, super charger gasket or more then likely if the intercooler under the supercharger was replaced it could be leaking there. Missing and bad idle will be caused buy a intercooler air leak. More then Likely the dealer used the double gasket with no silicone sealent or didn't torque the bolts to 18 ft/lb

 

Cruisinquick is my guy to follow, pop belt and check for the idler and tensioner pulley to see if the are with it. WOODY

 

Woody - Can you fill in the missing word? to see if the are with it. WOODY

I hope it is just a gasket or air leak. What scared me is that after I backed off the throttle and slowed down for an upcoming stopsign, I thought a heard a metallic screeching (like I would image a spun bearing would sound). Anyway, after reading the suggestions and doing a couple hours research on the internet, I am going to order an Equus 3030 Code Reader or 3130 Diagnostic Code Scanner in a couple days. Probably the latter because it has a few more features. If anyone has had a terrible experience with one of these, please speak up fast!

I'll keep you all posted on codes and further diagnosis. I'm planning on bringing it in to my local indie who works on my Audis and frequently has M-B vehicles, rather than the dealer. I just want to check codes before I move it, because I don't want to do more damage. If need be, I can have AAA flatbed it to his shop, about 5 miles away.

 

Word???????????How about Pulley shaft or bearing.

I just lost a power steering after 128,000 on one of my work vans, and it was burning the belt, noise and then bam poped the belt in half. Do the pulley spin test. There is no code for a metallic screech, thats going to be FELT. Pop the belt off the water pump and see whats bound up. Gasket , I dont believe so. WOODY

 

Check all the things others have mentioned, for the metallic noise you heard.

It sounds like you may have a cam position sensor problem as well.
Or the air pump circuit.


Let us know what you find.

 

Just re-posted with the P0105 code reading. Would still like any input on diagnosis before I take it back to the dealer or a local garage.

 

If your intake is leaking after the s/c the idle will be higher than normal. THe metallic noise could be the gasket whistling like a blade of grass between your thumbs.. Iam old ok; we did not have toys besides dirt and the ocassional blade of grass back then.

If you have a lean missfire like I get now and then due to going too hard on a cold motor - you will get a CEL and need to spend the CHEAP money to get a code reader. It will tell you whats up and reset the codes too.

Nothing indicated sounds broke but a manifold gasket can make an awful noise. Used to experiment with crankcase evacuation on my old pinto that I ran hard. Had the crankcase down to about 15 inches of mercury partial vaccum and the end shaft seals would get to fluttering some thing out of the world, shrill and loud while the motor was at idle .

If the dealer did the intake gaskets do a BRIAN Brave and get some spray cleaner and squirt it around the gaskets you can get to, to see if the idle changes tempo............Personally I like using a short 3-4 foot section of your neighbors garden hose as a listening tube to sense - seek out vacuum leaks. That way you find diffuse noise sources quickly and dont have to buy a new hose............you know the kids in the area will do anything for mischief these days.

Finally if the dealer did the work you have the right to ask them to look over it and see what YOU DID WRONG to cause it..........ha ha !

Screw work Iam going to Carlisle tomorrow to see the unwashed crowd and all the cars. Driving the C too and looking to park on site Saturday for thoes who can read ......this. Party hard, yall can see the things I have gotten into in the last year. Enjoy, W DY

 

autozones have quality CEL tools, that they let you use, and they'll reset them for you for free, and they should be able to give you a detailed print out of the CEL, what it means, possible causes, and possible solutions. That is if you have an autozone near you.
-Steve

 

I'm hoping it's just the gasket. Bringing it back to the dealer who did the warranty work last fall is a little iffy -- it was done 8 months ago, the car is out of warranty now, and he is 30+ miles and I don't want to drive the car that far.

I bought an Equus 3130 scanner/reader and it showed the P0105 code initially. I then tried to pull some live data logs, which I did but could not interpret. The engine would buck badly, and even surge when I ran it. I THINK I heard a whistling noise the very first time I started it, but by the time I jumped out and went to the engine it was gone. It also seemed to be running at higher rpm than normal (normal when warm being about 800), logging 925-1250. It also threw a bunch of misfire codes: P0300 (random misfire), and then misfires for cylinders 4,5,6.

I'm bringing my Audi to a very good European indie shop on Monday and will talk to the owner. I have seen some high-end cars there and hope he can work on the SRT6. He did the rotors and brakes for me -- but that's simple stuff compared to s/c work. I'm assuming if it is a s/c gasket, we buy new from Chrysler and he makes sure it is sealed and torqued properly? I was planning on printing out this thread and bringing it to him.

 

When my powersteering unit went out it was an awful sound but no effect on the engine...
oooops never mind

 

I dropped the car off last week at my indie shop (that has been servicing my Audis for years). He called me Monday --- it was a sensor that had worked itself loose. They screwed it back in and problem solved. Cost = $150 for diagnostics and an hour of labor. Probably expensive for those of you that are handy and know a lot about SRT6s, but I didn't know where to start looking. I'm just relieved I did not blow the engine or the s/c.

Neatest thing of all, he needs the space in his lot so he's delivering the car to my house and he said "pay me when you get back from vacation".

 

$150 is a BARGAIN for GOOD service like that. I'd happily pay that bill.