Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
Re: Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
I dont know how someone could possible warp the manifolds by over torquing them. If they have to be torqued to 7 foot pounds (absolutly nothing) and someone torqued them to 25 id have to imagine the bolts would risk stripping out hole, but 25 shouldnt warp an intake flange, that is a flange thats worth a ****.
Id be willing to bet the heat from welding warped them far before bolting them down did.
Just my thoughts.
Id be willing to bet the heat from welding warped them far before bolting them down did.
Just my thoughts.
Re: Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
anyone address the issue of how long it sometimes takes the ECU to make the adequate corrections for Air/Fuel???
also, as we have seen in other SRT6's, the fuel pump gets replaced because the car bogs down in cold starts.
one theory i have is when starting the SRT up, and then hitting it hard on the DYNO could be a possibility for detonation. ESPECIALLY when using a 185 pulley!! it HAS to take awhile for the ECU to figure out and process what's going on with this particular setup, and even MORE SO with the manifolds and such!
i suggest we all remember to adequately idle our cars and don't punch it hard til we get the motor and ECU simmering first.
anyone ever notice how if you (i sadly admit i've done this with other cars) hammer it RIGHT after you've started up and roll out, you have a ton more power? this is usually because of a very lean mixture(which lean conditions will make more power) due to the ECU not processing the correct fuel curve.
food for thought.... please expound and expand please....
also, as we have seen in other SRT6's, the fuel pump gets replaced because the car bogs down in cold starts.
one theory i have is when starting the SRT up, and then hitting it hard on the DYNO could be a possibility for detonation. ESPECIALLY when using a 185 pulley!! it HAS to take awhile for the ECU to figure out and process what's going on with this particular setup, and even MORE SO with the manifolds and such!
i suggest we all remember to adequately idle our cars and don't punch it hard til we get the motor and ECU simmering first.
anyone ever notice how if you (i sadly admit i've done this with other cars) hammer it RIGHT after you've started up and roll out, you have a ton more power? this is usually because of a very lean mixture(which lean conditions will make more power) due to the ECU not processing the correct fuel curve.
food for thought.... please expound and expand please....
Re: Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
Few quick things I saw in this thread regarding me:
I installed all my own parts with exception to the exhaust
I do have EuroCharged phenolic spacers with NW's gaskets
I have confidence in both Rob at Needswings and the guys at EuroCharged
I dont think there is any ONE person to blame in this matter or ONE cause of failure. A series of unfortunate things led to another and something went wrong. Kirk as since had a slightly used engine installed at no cost to him (to the best of my knowledge).
And as for me..... I am going to the track in a few hours so I need some sleep.... oh and after this weekend, I am parting out my car.
Cheers,
Bryan Tracy
I installed all my own parts with exception to the exhaust
I do have EuroCharged phenolic spacers with NW's gaskets
I have confidence in both Rob at Needswings and the guys at EuroCharged
I dont think there is any ONE person to blame in this matter or ONE cause of failure. A series of unfortunate things led to another and something went wrong. Kirk as since had a slightly used engine installed at no cost to him (to the best of my knowledge).
And as for me..... I am going to the track in a few hours so I need some sleep.... oh and after this weekend, I am parting out my car.
Cheers,
Bryan Tracy
Re: Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
The 24 psi is from Waldig's post even saying he told you he went 23psi and eventually went 24psi. That's where the 24 is coming from. Also 240's but that wasn't so recent.
Here nor there, once again Kirks AFR has always been right on par. He has never had a lean condition register, nor has his car thrown P0171 or P0174 like other forum members have reported. So, lets keep this on task, this is the data from this car.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
I installed mine and I don't even qualify as shade tree. I didn't use phenolics though. On and ready to go in less than an hour. I done it 3 times each time with new gaskets. After 45 minutes of trying should have gave you an indication that something was not normal. It's STOP and not get on the dyno that day. This was an error in judgement from all 5 present.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
Brian, stock gaskets will not work. You can just look at the bend in between runners on the gasket and match it up with the mani's and any shade tree mechanic (myself) can see they are not going to match up. They we hit in the middle of each runner and compress the gasket and not line up. You must use a flat gasket, whether it's from another company or not, but must be flat.
Also my suggestion for spacers would have been a gasket beneath the spacer as well as above the spacer. The spacer could have been out of "decking" by .001 and caused the leak as well. Not one mention of the possibility of the spacer being faulty and causing the leak.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
This sounds like a combination of installation error for the boost leak and possibly the mani could have be accidently dropped during shipment or at the shop. Then with all the RTV being used is there no possibility of some getting into the motor? I still find it hard to believe (Brian will be posting "I'm In Denial"), that a boost leak would cause that much damage or even contribute to that severe of damage. More than a few on here have had a boost leak. I had a broken clamp on my ypipe once and could hear it as it was quite obvious. I'm positive I've ran my car as hard as Riot's, possibly harder. When you are familiar with the sounds the car makes (should have been just like ImportLab's) it allows you to distinguish the details in sound differences.
We all know others here have had boost leaks. Have others here blown the gasket out? Remember we need to talk apples to apples here. Boost leak by the y pipe is definitely not in the same ball park. Now your trying to compare sounds? Bryans car has a full stainless exhaust remember? Stop assuming…your not helping the thread
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
There had to be a possibility of some pre-existing damage in his motor. Maybe putting it away for the winter he didn't feel the difference in loss of performance or the sound of the car?
As I've told you before I think it's outstanding that you would replace his motor for free and then the installation to boot. On one hand it makes EC looks like a saviour but the other hand looks like some admission of fault. You said he beat his motor and if it's entirely his fault then he should have paid the bill or at least owned up to it. He didn't really accept your explanation of running his car cold. He posted and didn't say "hey it's my fault I ran my car cold", more that what was being said. I just percieve it as ethically and morally if I was in your shoes, and I had a smidgen of doubt that it was my fault then I would have done the same as you. It is a testament to your character, but business is business.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
Fast forward to the replacement motor. Is it equipped with all the same mods as before minus the mani's? Does it have the same tune as before or the one you have on your car? Or ImportLabs already dyno tuned with mani's would have been a good baseline to start from.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
From the afr's you posted it would seem you have solved the AFR/Boost issue with the LET tune that seemed to block the 185's into the 11's. Riot is the 1st but also the 1st blown motor in an srt6. The tune and 185 from LET was introduced in May of 2008, and thread after thread of issues (everyone besides BrianBrave with his Speed Innovation tune) getting the 185 to perform at high rpm and boost levels other pullies were performing at. I've told Bulldogger before, the first one to make the 185 reliable, safe, and very fast wins the million dollar award. Riots mods didn't mention a FPR, so why would Waldig go through all the trouble (actually he's unique and would do it anyway, kudo's) if a box tune was available already. Your next meet should yield some killer results.
A youtube video of either SRT6 on the dyno at WOT in 3rd showing 13 or below afrs would be icing on the cake. Brian most of us don't have fancy shops, ok there are a few, but the mani's are probably only a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 difficulty.
Car was running the same tune and 185 for over a year. The car was dyno'd 2 weeks prior and AFR was averaging 13.8
Manis were installed in about 30 minutes
Car was started and seemed fine
We drove to dyno next door (and no its not LET its fluid motor union0 a different company)
We did a pull. It was ok, but seemed lacking
Did another pull and shutdown half through as gasket blew out (apparently this is us ruining the gaskets they came with according to you)
Then we spent time trying to figure it out- as would anyone else
THE MANI WAS NOT DECKED FLAT- We have pictures and rob redecked them. Would you redeck something that doesnt need to be redecked? Rob states that we warped them during install. Can you warm something that is "flat" by placing it on another flat surface? NO
DO WE HAVE ANOTHER CF WITH MOTOR ISSUES? NO- WHERE DO YOU GET THIS STUFF?
Cruzin, while I appreciate your posts, you are doing nothing to help the situation or better the forum on this topic. Please read through the details before posting incorrect data. LET is in our building. FLUID MOTOR UNION is next door. Once again, stop with the assumptions. No the 185 didn't do this. You don't think its quite odd that after running the same tune and parts for over a year, the day that changes (mani's) are made issues come up?
Re: Kirks (RIOT) motor thread
Originally Posted by MD SRT6
When the car was initially acting up, I would think a basic obd2 scanner would have shown the fuel trims out of wack and adding massive fuel, I'm suprised 2 shops could not see this right away.
I know the story has gotten polluted with bad data, but the car seemed fine then jumped on the dyno. It was then when the issues were happening. We saw the leak, then attempted the corrective actions. We then looked deeper and found the compression problem. It was not run on the dyno after that one time.
Make sense?
Last edited by loungn14; 04-25-2009 at 08:28 AM.
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