supercharger woes
Re: supercharger woes
- Remove your NW intake, return to the stock intake system and go for some test runs while noting any difference in power. Try running against the stock SRT6 again because weather you have just a pulley or intake; you should always be in front.
- If nothing changes then reinstall the NW intake and remove the C3 pulley, returning to the stock pulley. Again, note any difference in power and run against the stock SRT6 for comparison.
Re: supercharger woes
ALL i can think is that I didn't tortion the bolt properly(I didn't have my torque wrench,and did it by "feel"). Shouldn't make a difference though should it? And if it did, it wouldn't make sense that I'm getting initial HP gains...I should be at less than before right?
Re: supercharger woes
Originally Posted by aussiedude
ok i just ran 13.49 at the track.....is that reasonable for the mods, given that I
a)don't have slicks
b)didn't build the revs before launch, just hit the go peddle
?
a)don't have slicks
b)didn't build the revs before launch, just hit the go peddle
?
A bone stock SRT-6 should be able to get 13.0 at sea level on a moderately cool day with good traction and DA. My best at 1200 feet altitude was 13.3 with my car stock, and temperatures in the 50's Farenheit.
After I added the NeedWings cold air intake and Code3 pulley, I dropped to 12.7. But I was having traction problems. Others with either more racing skill or better traction were getting times around 12.5. Some as low as 12.3.
Assuming that:
- You're not racing in high altitudes
- You're not racing in high temperatures
- You're not spinning like crazy at launch
- You're not driving like a granny down the track
Re: supercharger woes
Originally Posted by tom2112
Yes, no, and maybe. That's a terrible answer, but there's more to it than just your time. What altitude is the track? What was the temperature? humidity? the DA? Did you spin out significantly at launch or roll onto the throttle real slow?
A bone stock SRT-6 should be able to get 13.0 at sea level on a moderately cool day with good traction and DA. My best at 1200 feet altitude was 13.3 with my car stock, and temperatures in the 50's Farenheit.
After I added the NeedWings cold air intake and Code3 pulley, I dropped to 12.7. But I was having traction problems. Others with either more racing skill or better traction were getting times around 12.5. Some as low as 12.3.
Assuming that:
A bone stock SRT-6 should be able to get 13.0 at sea level on a moderately cool day with good traction and DA. My best at 1200 feet altitude was 13.3 with my car stock, and temperatures in the 50's Farenheit.
After I added the NeedWings cold air intake and Code3 pulley, I dropped to 12.7. But I was having traction problems. Others with either more racing skill or better traction were getting times around 12.5. Some as low as 12.3.
Assuming that:
- You're not racing in high altitudes
- You're not racing in high temperatures
- You're not spinning like crazy at launch
- You're not driving like a granny down the track
A real example is my car could run 11's in DA of 2100' or better, but when I raced in Nevada last year I could only manage 13.10's. The DA was nearly 9000' during that weekend. Had I not understood the effects of DA then surely I would have assumed something was wrong with my car. Fortunately I owned a Performaire PA2 and had been inputing all my timeslips after each run. When arriving a couple of days early for the race and some test n' tune I checked the built in ET predictor and sure enough predicted I would be a full second off of normal times. I used 100 octane race gas and made no difference. The only equalizers of DA are nitrous or water/meth injections.
With all that said if you can correlate you DA conditions and your still way off. Then yes something may be wrong with your car.
Please post a slip and give us location of track. The slip will say date and time. Use an almanac to get all the info we need to calculate DA for you. Also your slip will show 60' times so we can see if your spinning off the line or not.
Re: supercharger woes
Originally Posted by lacerdaschoon
My concern is that we tested our cars against each other when i was stock and he had the pulley and intake but yet we were dead even. Isnt that reason enough to believe something is wrong?
The easiest solution is for you to install the mods on your car and give it a go.
Re: supercharger woes
My best time with just a Needswings intake is 13.071 at 109.74. The least mph I've run is 106 and that was when I ran a 15.1. (lots of spinning) The point being that your mph is important. It will tell you more than the time will. With your mods I would think your mph would be at least 109. For the record my runs were with temps around 77º and the track elevation is 14 feet. Summing up, barring real high altitude or other contributing factor, you have something not right with the car.
Les
Les
Re: supercharger woes
MPH is deceiving because if you spin a little then hook up your mph is going to be higher. Best is to take your best 60' time and that MPH is your baseline for a solid pass. Your best 60' usually yields your best ET, not always too many factors but a good rule of thumb. Your 60's and ET's are better indicators. Couple that with a DA calculator and you can compare to others times running with your same mods.
Re: supercharger woes
Yes, I rev to 1500 rpm at launch, and my 60' times are usually below 2.0 and when I get lucky 1.8. Some say to build revs to 2000 or even 2400, but I don't like to do that. It makes ugly creaking noises in the rear end, and is hard to keep staged. Also, it is very easy to spin out when you have it revved higher. 1200 to 1500 is a good happy medium in my book.
An old rule of thumb at the track is that for every .1 you can trim off your 60' time, you'll get .2 off your ET. So if you had a better launch and could get that 60' from 2.2 to 1.9 you could get an ET of 12.89 or so. That's right in line with a car with your mods on street tires. With a 60' of 2.2 it sounds like either your car is bogging down at the low end or you're spinning tires at the starting line for a couple tenths of a second.
An old rule of thumb at the track is that for every .1 you can trim off your 60' time, you'll get .2 off your ET. So if you had a better launch and could get that 60' from 2.2 to 1.9 you could get an ET of 12.89 or so. That's right in line with a car with your mods on street tires. With a 60' of 2.2 it sounds like either your car is bogging down at the low end or you're spinning tires at the starting line for a couple tenths of a second.
Re: supercharger woes
I was at the track tonight. All my passes were between 106 and 108 mph. My best 1/4 mile was 13.2 (twice) and my best 60' was 2.51. No traction with the Michelins. I guess I need something a little stickier. Anyway, as I mentioned earlier I've never trapped lower than 106 mph. Not running 15.1 or 13.074. I torque brake to 1500 to 2000 rpm and release the brake at the 3rd light. After I've moved a few feet, I start pressing the pedal to the floor. Granted, I'm new to drag racing so I'm no expert. And my dyno was 215 hp. (I was real depressed)
I missed the UPS man again today. He has my Code 3 pulley. When it's installed I'll give you the word from P.R. It may be a week or two because I have an autocross event this weekend and a fluid leak so the car is going to the dealer after the race and before I install the pulley.
Les
I missed the UPS man again today. He has my Code 3 pulley. When it's installed I'll give you the word from P.R. It may be a week or two because I have an autocross event this weekend and a fluid leak so the car is going to the dealer after the race and before I install the pulley.
Les
Re: supercharger woes
ok guys,
I I marked the front of the pulley with 3 marks, the two outer metal rings, and the plastic looking inner one. after the track, I saw that the two outer ones have moved(10 o'clock and 3 o'clock), as for the innermost one, I don't know as the heat seems to have cooked the sharpie off it!
Does this suggest a bad bearing or something? Or are those parts supposed to move?
BTW,
The mark on the center disk is seperate, to see if that bolt is moving or not.
I I marked the front of the pulley with 3 marks, the two outer metal rings, and the plastic looking inner one. after the track, I saw that the two outer ones have moved(10 o'clock and 3 o'clock), as for the innermost one, I don't know as the heat seems to have cooked the sharpie off it!
Does this suggest a bad bearing or something? Or are those parts supposed to move?
BTW,
The mark on the center disk is seperate, to see if that bolt is moving or not.