Then why the need for the valves? - can't you just add fluid from the cap and let say use a 2 lb cap to release the trapped air?

 

Rob, ran the new supercooler all day yesterday! FINALLY keeping my temp gauge below the needle! great work! and the inMotion tune is fantastic!

 

Wondering the same thing?

 

It's listed on the NeedsWings site for $450.

Ouch! That's an expensive radiator.

 

Not really when you consider the LET HE was like 320 when I bought it and its half the size.

 

True... maybe I'm showing my age here, but the last radiator I replaced cost me $30. LOL, I suppose this one is a little nicer.

 

It's a great upgrade! Also, we're paying not only for parts, but the initiative to create, the hours spent getting it just right, research, and quality control! I hope rob makes a good living off of our parts, it's the beauty of the American dream

 

Technically not. The LET unit holds slightly more volume. I have calculated the volume on both cores.

But i do think the supercooler is more beneficial since it gets more airflow(across the front face) and uses the fans' pull to suck air through the HE. Not to mention i will be deleting my resivior since the supercooler has a fill cap...thats weight saved and a cleaner engine bay!

 

Won't you drag racers still need a 16 oz. overflow catch can to pass tech inspection? Without one you could easily leak fluids on the track using a closed system radiator with no place for the coolant to expand into.

To get the full benefit of this system, (or even our factory setup - but more so with this type) you should wire your IC pump to be on all the time - otherwise when the fan comes on at lower speeds - (when the SC & IC pump are off) your coolant is no longer flowing and taking advantage of that extra airflow.

While the coolant in the radiator might get cool, the coolant that's trapped in the Intercooler only gets hotter.

I found running the IC pump all the time to be a huge advantage in keeping the IAT's in check.

 

I measured the core contents of the Summit core used in the cooler and it holds over a gallon, the Let core was more rows of smaller cross section and held about 1/2 gallon even with the end cap tanks. Woody

 

Tech inspection, whats that? Oh you mean where those young guys take your slip and write a number on the window after walking around the car once.

All kidding aside, do you think the s/c coolant(separated from engine coolant) is going to get hot enough to need room for expansion?

Good point on the i/c pump, but mine is on soon as i start the car. Does it ever not run when the car is running? Are you suggesting to wire it to an accessory so that it stays on when the engine is off? Help me understand.

 

Did you measure the core only of the supercooler, or with its obviously larger endcaps? I used the formula L x W x H = Volume, core only, no endcaps.

My LET H/E measurements were from finned core to finned core = 333 ci.(exact dimensions on pg 2 or 3 of my personal thread).

My supercooler measurements were 16 x 20.75 x 1. I originally used 1.75 as the width until i read the tube are stated to be only 1". The difference in the .75 difference is 581 ci vs. 332 ci! This doesnt take into account the fact that from the supercooler pic it looks like the top and bottom have some material that isnt actually core but is probably used for measuring, meaning its even a bit smaller...

Then theres the question of effeciency. Do more smaller rows or less larger rows cool better? Does the power of the pump and speed of the fluid come into play to answer that? I dunno my head is starting to hurt...lol.

Im not trying to get too technical, im just trying to figure out the best way to really tell what the difference is.

 

I've never been to the races but did do my homework when I registered for the Texas Mile. I would hate to have the track personel see me leaking fluids down the track and give me the boot after driving all that way. But you racers would know better then me what works and what doesn't.

BTW - I pick up my custom 20' enclosed car hauler on monday - complete with work bench - lights etc... Sliding door on the drivers side to open the car door and to open up to fresh air when parked at the track. Might need to pick up a generator/air compressor combo before I go. Perhaps I'll be going to the tracks now....

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My IC pump was only running when the SC was engaged. At slower speeds and when I would come to a stop (and my SC was off) my IC pump was also shutting off.

Let's back up a bit - Remember, I relocated my IC pump to my frame rail, just below my new IC tank. I figured at that time I would be able to replace it with ease (since so many seemed to be failing) - and it also allowed me to hear it run (now that I have it rewired that is) at slow speeds.

Before I rewired it - I never heard run but just assumed it did when the SC engaged. That's not what I wanted with my new "IC Flow Tank".

So I simply disconnected the wire that runs from the pulse module connector (Pin 7E) that ran to the fuse block (fuse #13) and then on to the IC pump and made a little wire to connect it to the accessory power distributer in the fuse box so that it powers up when the key is on (engine running or with the key in the accessory position). This makes it easy to bleed the system and - - it is also very easy to reverse.

Now I'm assured that my pump is always running when the engine is on, no matter what speed or if the SC is engaged; plus it helps keep the IC coolant (and thus IAT's) cooler.

I found that before I did this, my IAT's would rise when city driving and take a long time to cool back down when backing off the throttle after a "spirited run".

Now my IAT are more stable and constant - - This equals better performance.

I also plan to try icing the IC coolant prior to my run at the Texas Mile if the weather is hot. I have some other ideas if I do decide to do more racing - - but I'll save them for later.


BBdiagram.jpg

 

for us to properly build these and stand behind our work (we warranty everything we make for 3 years!) that is where we ended up pricewise. we are not a fly by night outfit finding the cheapest **** we can get our hands on. the price accounts for the exchanger itself, the work to properly undo the radiator necks, custom form in the block off plates, make the brackets, make the inlets and outlets and properly bead the ends. include the drain bung/petcock. TIG welding, and spending an hour pressure testing each cooler fixing the "summit supplied" leaks in the cooler. including all the hoses/clamps/new powersteering cooling line kit/ect and being able to provide customer support on the product instead of a taillight warranty.

 

Don't get me wrong Rob, I really appreciate all the hard work that goes into your products. I'm not bashing you or the supercooler. I just wasn't expecting that kind of price tag, and I posted that while still in sticker shock. Like I said in a different post, the last radiator I replaced cost me $30, so I was a bit alarmed by the price of the supercooler. Of course, that was 20 years ago, so there you have it.

All that said, I'll probably order one before the heat of summer is upon us.

 

not at all, i didnt mean to sound like a rant, just wanted to give a breakdown as to why they cost what they do

 

Have you guys run any testing against the LET cooler. My thoughts are that if your not moving you won't gain much, and if you're waiting for the radiator fans to lower heat on the intercooler the car radiator gets alot hotter before you kick on the cooling fans around 200 plus degrees. Once moving I think they both will work fine, I'm not sure where the gain will be. This is not a dig at the product it could be the best thing since sliced bread. This is just my thoughts and they come from my Dyno tuning I had 4-5 back to back pulls inside a shop no fresh air flowing and my intake temps only hit 80* max and it was about 50* in the shop. I think with the LET cooler and the CM30 johnson pump the temps stay pretty good.

 

This kinda goes hand-in-hand with the cooler mod - so I'll post it here:

Wouldn't it be nice if there were an easy mod to put a switch on the pump and fan so they could be turned on while you're sitting in the staging lanes at the track with the car off?

Call me crazy, but I bet you could even hook it up to a temp sensor so that the fan and the pump automatically shut off after the coolant reached a certain low temp.

I know others have thought of it, and some have done similar mods, but it would be great to see a kit to do this for us guys that aren't exactly DIY-enabled.

 

1. OkDamblame it who is breaking into my computer. I have been running a stage 1 fan control and also have a pump control for all of last season.

They are not due out till the heat of summer, is nothing sacred? Cant do it all or there would be no time for the planes and cats. Gotta set your priorities as life is short and you gotta have a good time while here.

Fan and pump control are under development. It works but I gotta get it to be easier to implement & install. THe fan controller is an electronic module and will not tolerate jumpers or gizmos to bypass it.

That is going to take some time as I really want to paint the hood before my Batteries arrive in two weeks, Iam told. That is for weight control in the front end, so I can corner better but this is getting ahead of the cart with the horse...

Woody

 

My IC pump has been wired to a switch since I installed the CM30 and I have two 450cfm fans. Turning the pump on is one of the first things I do when I get in the car. Like waldig, I haven't figured out the factory fan control box yet. I thought it was a giant relay at first, but after playing with a meter a bit yesterday I dont think so. Once I figure it out I will probally ditch my mini fans. I'm sure wiring the factory fan to a switch combined with the needswings supercooler would be the best option for the keeping IC fluid temps down.