So I have the needswings intake and drilled/slotted brakes....and I'm STILL getting smoked on the track by modded skylines/evos!
in turms of an instant performance jump, am I better to get a tune or pulley?
opinions please!
what are the kind of 0-60 times I can expect from each, and together, for that matter?!
Thanks!

 

What kind of track are you running at? And with what car? You mention drilled/slotted brakes, if your runnin' a drag track that's not going to help you speed wise. Keep in mind that both Skyline(most at least) and EVOs are AWD and are a different breed of car then the Crossfire. AWD and 300+HP (you say modded so add a bunch more to that number) is going to be superior to a 220-300RWD car generaly speaking.

 

I'm at a race track, not drag.
06 srt6, with a needswings intake.
still wondering what will give more raw power, the ecu tune, or pulley....

 

I'm at the same stage as you with only a Needswings intake. My next mod will be the Code 3 Pulley. Then a tune. I have to ask .... how many miles on the car? It should get stronger with more miles if you don't have too many.

Les

 

Go with a good tune first that way your not maxing your boost and afr's. Drag racing is different, we only need it for a few seconds. You need reliable power for 30 min or more. The other mods will increase both but heatsoak will be your enemy. There are cooling mods out there, but the trade off is how much will you gain for how much time until heatsoak will take you back to just the intake. I'd say to stay as stock as you can and get more seat time to outdrive your opponents. Add mods where it counts like the best tires, brakes, lightweight wheels. Pulling the passenger seat alone would be like installing a mod. Have your tune customized to the power band you need most. What good is top speed if your never there, or great 60' times if you never come to a complete stop.

 

I would look into that k2 suspenion Needswings is selling.

 

I'm at 5200 kms, that would be 3230 miles. I've heard talk of the car getting stronger around 8000 kms...there's truth to this?
perhaps I should wait until after that for the remap.
I'm thinking the pulley.....any potential risks?
How much do you guys figure it would shave off the 0-60 time?

 

also, is the install fairly easy?

 

Install is Soooooo easy. And it is easily reversible.
I experienced noticeable power increase with the code 3 pulley. More so with just the 181 pulley.
Also cooling mods are recommended when adding more boost.

 

even with the CAI, there will still be a noticable improvement? more or less than the difference noticed when I put the CAI on?
Also,
know anything about this "break in" period with increased performance after?
I also notice that no one talks much about exhausts...is this because the standard one is very free-flowing? is there much performance increase to be had?

 

hello hello..

 

with no muffler i ran 13.1 at 107 mph at gateway international raceway. cats and resonators were still in place... this was at 65 degrees and 100% humidity.

 

Why are you so worried about straight line performance when you run at a "race track"? I would think your suspension setup would be more of a concern. Anyway, since you have the intake already just get a pulley and tune and you should start doing better on the straightaways.

 

aussiedude, these cars are known to have IC pump failures as well, so if your power from the SC starts to come and go as heat soak sets in, you might want to upgrade your pump...do a search on here and read thru the pump problems...it will cut your power...then, you might want to look at the other ways to keep her cool...but, my next mod would be the pulley, then immediately get a custom tune for those mods....to bring them all together...you should be running w/ those dudes, awd or not...

 

Where exactly are these modded cars faster than yours? Are you getting pulled on straights? Are you being outbraked? Are you being blown by in the corners?

You have to be more specific as to how exactly you're being outperformed.

Let's also talk about how experienced you are compared to these other drivers. Are they on your same level? Do they know the track much more? I don't roadrace cars, but I do race motorcycles and know that a slower machine can be ridden much faster than a more powerful bike off-road and on a road course. It's all about the driver in most instances, unless you're just grossly underpowered.

 

Good call, definitely atleast upgrade the IC pump too. Also I would look into some phenolic spacers, Code3 upgraded intercooler, Code3 HE, seperated IC system. And I also agree with milkjuggz, where and how are you getting beat exactly? Nobodys here has fully built an SRT6 for road racing that I know of, but I bet if someone did it would hold its own against just about any other street/race car.

 

as I'm not as experienced on the track as those guys on the track, they are pretty much beating me the whole way
The track has a couple of long straights though, and even then, when driver skill should make minimal difference, They're walking past.
I'm thinking mayb it's about this "break in" period a couple of people have mentioned....the car underperforming until a certain number of miles are on the clock...
also, what psi should I be at on the track vs on the road?

 

I don't know what your thinking is going to magically happen once you hit this magic break in number, but if you want your car to go faster then buy more mods.This idea that you seem to have that your car will become some beast it wasn't before after this magical number is ludicrous. While it might get a tad faster, it won't be significant enough to win you a race you werent winning before. Those cars beating you on the straights are more modded than you because there is no way a stock evo should be pulling on you in the straights. If they are bone stock and still pulling on you, then your car is "underperforming" pre or after break in period. Those particular cars properly modded are going to be fatser then you with just a NW intake + your break in period.

 

I'm not the first to mention this.
Most recently, NZCROSS in the "srt6 performance" thread said

"Anyway, if it is anything like mine ( also purchased brand new ) then wait till you get around 8k on the clock, they seem to loosen up and really start pulling hard - lock it in 1st and turn the traction control off, stamp on the gas and hang on - its addictive so be warned "

I've heard it elsewhere too.

 

Well, I mean this to be helpful, so Aussiedude, don't take it the wrong way...you WILL not see much of a difference at 8K or 20K for that matter....on any car that I know of...if your more experienced drivers are coming off that last turn at speed, then they are going to be faster on the straight...you have to be ***** to the wall coming on to that straight, living on the edge to specific...coming off the straight again, again pushing it to the max, to the edge keeping rpms up...with a tune and pulley for accelleration, you should see 6200 rpms...but I would say you need more track time for sure, lower your pressure to 30-32lbs....and give her hell, drive on the edge my friend....one other important thing I didn't mention...before you race again...take the negative terminal to your battery off for at least 30min or so...this will clear the computer of your normal driving habits...you will be fresh going out on the track...leave the traction control ON...it will save your aussie @ss believe me on this one...the car will always be better than you...including me...