you dont have to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. Here is the procedure from the manual. This can be found by searching 'resetting ECU' also. That is where I found it.

Throttle Body Adjustment. They say this works on all drive by wire vehicles and resets parameters WITHOUT Having to disconnect battery!


The Throttle is "Drive By Wire" and adapts to your particular driving
style. Do a TBA Throttle body adaptation.

1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.

2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter
turns over.

3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.

4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back
to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas
pedal.

5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.

6. Drive the car as you always do.

Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving so
I noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -

Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2 minutes.

Keep the key in for the entire thing.


MikeR

 

All the documentation I have seen on the K2 suspension mentioned it requires modification to the rear underbody for the sway bar mounting.

Dunno if thats the case with the SRT or not.

 

MikeR, I have found that procedure doesn't always work for certain, the only true way is to disconnect the battery, and I do this especially at the track...in fact, I am looking for a way to install a cut-off switch, similar to what you would see on a marine engine...I get to the track, pull the cut-off, put a couple bags of ice on SC...and wait my turn...I have a Sprint Booster in-line, and don't know if this causes the problem or not, but I haven't always got a true reset...

 

If you just go crazy fast all the time you dont have to retrain it. The reset procedure seems to work okay for me. I only do it when I get to the track. Any other time the SRT6 is MORE than fast enough.

MikeR

 

I would recommend the Code3 pulley. I used the needswings/code3 at the dragon without a tune, and the car felt exceptional.

 

seriously assiedude, I run the dog crap out of mine and have pushed her into curves as hard as anyone, powered out hard and she keeps on going, no stall, no hesitation, just raw hp...my only complaint is to me it tends to push going into a right hander at 80-90 mph...I just don't trust it that much, but as soon as I transition, I am back on it all the way to the floor for the next turn...I have done evoc in my earlier yrs on the police dept, and get to play at the academy from time to time...we push our patrol cars this hard, so the XF is a breeze on the obstacle course compared to a Chevy Impala, or Crown Vic, haven't gotten to try a Charger yet...just try the things mentioned here and we will get you kickin' butt in no time....

 

ok, just dynoed at 264 whp...
that normal?

 

Depends, what kind of dyno did you use?

 

oh. um...dunno.
a drive on, rollers on rear wheels kind?

 

Without knowing what kind of dyno you used its hard to say if your car is running at full power. I don't know a ton about dynos, but I do know Mustang dynos run on the low side so that could explain your low numbers. Depending on dynos from what I have seen stock cars are from mid 280's to 300 (freaks). Although as previously stated, Mustang dynos run lower. Find out what kind of dyno you ran on.

 

How much are the electronic nannies in the Crossfire still kicking in even with traction control switched off? I know it's never really "off" with these cars, but the EVO et al quite often will disable TC fully. Add to that the fact that these guys are probably running not only engine mods but suspension mods, R-compound tires, etc AND they know the track better than you AND they have more track time in general than you, and it's no wonder you're getting beat. If their corner speed is significantly higher than yours, and they can put the power down sooner coming out of the corners, you'll never catch them on a long straight.

The two biggest improvements you can make to lap times will be from better tires and the all important driver mod. Please understand I'm not taking a shot at you - you admitted that these guys have more experience than you. Here in the States we have the option of ride along instructors (included in the entry fee) who will work with you on corner entry, braking points, etc. They'll even get behind the wheel of YOUR car with you riding shotgun and give you some instruction that way.

For an inexperienced driver, simply piling on more power is not the answer. In fact, most driving instructors will tell you it's a very bad thing. In my lowly little Limited 6MT Roadster I've chased down C5 Corvettes, modified Mustangs, fully race prepped Spec Miatas, E36 M3s, and scared the crap out of a guy in a Porsche 911 when I significantly outbraked him from 125mph.

 

grt post Mike...my point for someone not yet experienced is to leave the TC fully on until he has a better feel for the car...if you are panicing on your braking, you are scubbing speed...stab brake going in as hard as you feel comfortable without losing any more speed than necessary, transition, powering out. You will get a rythem going after awhile. And finally, having ran w/ some N/As, I can tell you, on the track, they are as tough as any SRT...they will corner w/ anyone...keep practicing Aussiedude, we are just trying to help...