Jerry - Thanks for taking care of this.
Please add me to the list for the replacement.

I did have to get a temporary from napa-to get the car running, but sure to not want to run into this agian down the road.

Thanks - and thanks for the call.

 

Thanks for mentioning this c32AMG!

Jerry, will you create another thread recalling the idlers? I ask because like Montana, I have been hearing a squeaking sound every since my last track visit on 11/6. Would like too be included in the first idler replacement batch for a 181 setup, thanks.

Fingers crossed until then….. .

 

Could put the stock stuff back on until there is a solution?


Also, does anyone know if the stock crank pulley is a harmonic dampener of any type? With all these pulleys avail I would guess that the engine is internally balanced, but i dunno.

 

Temporary fix if you have a failed/squealing bearing. (Until LET fix is available)


I purchased a bearing from NAPA
It is a SKF brand part number 6303ZJ
The bearing is sheilded on one side only, thats the bad news, that and it is $34. Good news is it is rated at "limiting speed" 22,000 rpm

Here is the Spec Page

Also watch the torque on the bearing, I used Locktite on the bolt and went lighter on the torque.

 

Thanks C32AMG-DTM for opening this thread. Great Forum!!

I have an ASP-Pulley Set installed for 5.000 KM. The ASP-Idler Pulley is 60mm and from the front looking there is no Bearing-Nr. What I noticed is that there is a little bit of grease and a little dirt on the outside ring. Is this normal? But no Rust...

The Bearing-Nr. of my Stock-Idler (90mm) is 6303 LHA NTN.

Don't know if anyone else heard this sound: When I start my engine for the first time when its completely cold,there sometimes is a short metallic sound in the first second the engine revs up like "klong". I am sure when I first installed my ASP-Pulley set this sound was not there...

Would you hear the outgoing idler-bearing while ideling with the hood open?

On the other hand there are many pullied cars without issues, and you dont drive with 6.000 RPM all the time...

Maybe Jerry can offer a better idler-pulley for the ASP-Users to, with the better bearing already installed. Would a 70mm Idler-Pulley fit?

Thanks.

 

The NSK Engineering department is reviewing all of this information and promised they will have an answer to us soon.

Once I get the old idler back, I'm going to send it in to them per their request for inspection.

Exceeding the 15,000 RPM limit shortens the life of the bearing because it generates too much heat. They said bearings without sidewalls will generate less heat and have a higher RPM limit.

 

Jerry, I have my old one if you want it for inspectiion.

 

Please! Will you ship it to me?

 

Sure - you have a PM

 

Should the guys running ASP pulley kit be worried too! I bought mine from NeedsWings. I wonder If someome should contact ASP and let them know the problems some are having!

 

I would think so. It seems that we are both running the same bearing in our idlers.

In fact, LET used ASP for the idler pulleys for some time.

I'll take care of as many of you as I can. Consider your bearing on LET.

 

how about us RENNTECH boys any worry there ?

 

I would think it is definitely worth mentioning it to RENNTECH! Absolutely! See what they are using for their pulley kits. I would be interested......

 

Distant join our chat session gig deal lol I dont know what it is called, but yeah I started hearing some noise rob mentioned to take the belt off and spin each one. I will get on it when I get a chance

 

When looking for the PN for the tensioner bolt I read the belt removal instructions and it says to remove the belt and check ALL pulleys for wear or damage.

Maybe a good check every six months or so. Take a look at your belt and all the pulleys as a preventitive manintenance.

MikeR

 

Looking at our pulley and belt path - I am wondering if it would be a good idea to fab up a connecting bracket. There is an unused backet near the idler in question - would it be a good idea to brace the idler bolt to this bracket?
If there was a failure at least the idler would be captured.

bracket.jpg

 

This is really not a bad idea at all

 

Seems simple - replace the idler bolt with a stud, nut, add a bracket and another nut.

 

I just went out and looked at that bracket and the pulley closer. You could fab up a strap to go between them but it would have to fit down into the idler pull as the bolt sits down in the pulley. You would have to make sure you had clearence to not rub the pulley or bearing. It is a very good idea if we could come up with a solution. I'll look at it more while Jerry is looking for a new bearing.

I also noticed that my bearing is a Nachi bearing, not an NSK or Timkin. Typically the Nachi is not up to the the quality of the other two vendors. That is from past expierence in the disk drive industry.

MikeR

 

I think replacing the bolt with the stud/nut combo would allow room for the bracket.
Also since we now know the speed of this idler a little extra support could not hurt...no?