Want to thank everyone for there input as I continue to learn each time I get on the forum. But isn't that why its here?
I would also like to thank Jerry for all his efforts and standing by our group. Considering its small size I am surprised any business would take us on as profitability can't be their primary motivation! LOL
They say "from the mouths of babes", one never knows when some one a little less knowledgeable about something will provide the comment/catalyst to take a problem in a new direction and subsequent solution.
When you modify anything (I make my living certifying experimental aircraft) proving will how long it will last and what maintenance is needed to have it last that long can take years. In more than a few cases we accept a components limitations and make it a time change item, or a regular time inspection item, just like oil levels and oil changes, and replace it at specific intervals or when regular inspection dictates. Nascar and Formula one crews do this to specific parts to insure reliability on race day. The end option for me is going to make it a regular inspection and change item while looking for a solution. When in doubt change it out. I like to error on the side of safety, especially at 6,000 rpms.
I have already fabbed the additional idler capture bracket and stud, as opposed to using a bolt. Very good idea.
Brian, I am curious to see how the ceramics do.
I log all my inspections on the car based on mileage and hours so in time I may have a predictable replacement cycle so I will change it out instead of repitious inspections.

 

Sheeesh! I find your comments informative also Montana. I also enjoy reading everyone's comments.
No need to attack others that wish to provide their input just because they don't mirror yours. Hopefully between all of us we can come up with a viable solution to this problem.
I figured that the two bearing idea would of faced the to open sides of the bearings together with the outer sealed side protecting the two bearings. True, RPM would still be a concern but it seems that with two bearings sharing the load there would be less stress thus less heat and possibly longer bearing life.
Anyone else with ideas or comments feel free to post. That's what the forum is here for!
Enjoy!

 

I'll start a new thread with the latest info.

 

Too bad you can't make a post where only you can post.
Looking forward to the new post.
Thanks.

 

Montana, I'll give you one thing, you are consistently grumpy. Is writing down your thoughts and opinions not what a forum is for? How can opinions and facts hurt the decision? Maybe they will shed light on a previously unthought of problem. Jerry can choose to listen to suggestions or ignore them, it doesn't matter. People are interested and speaking up because it dirrectly affects quite a bit of them. I don't know jack so I like reading peoples opinions whether right or wrong. There are alot of smart people here that know what they are talking about, but since you have it figured out how about you help Jerry help us.

 

I'm trying my best to help out guys. This isn't an easy task to accomplish, but we are almost there.

I have managed to find a drop in replacement bearing that meets my performance requirements.

I’m arranging for payment now and hopefully I can get these delivered soon.

 

i SPENT 2 HRS OF COMPANY TIME TODAY AT A BEARING SUPPLY HOUSE AND ON THE PHONE WITH A MANUFACTURER Of bearings trying to do just that. I have put in a work request for the manufacture of a ceramic balled bearing which MAY offer the atributes we need. It is not a simple task. I do get "Grumpy" and your right everyone has a right to their opinions while at a keyboard. Forgive me for my impatience but when in person those that are speaking either 20 minutes behind the conversation or from out in the Ozone are generally easier ignored than when we are forced to read their input to make sure they haven't heard something that could have be of help.
It will take 1 week for the engineers to OK the manufacture of the bearing I am asking for. I will let everyone know when I get the info and speak with Jerry regarding this situation.
I have found 1 bearing dual shielded that fits the same size shaft but would reguire a 7mm shim installed in the present idler pulley. The bearing I speak of will sustain over 20,000rpm and is shielded to protect from soiling.
Mike

 

I heard someone say they had a ceramic bearing ordered? Is this true The only manufacturer suposedly in this country of ceramics only at present has an unshielded bearing that must be oil bathed. Also the standard ceramics are slightly too "fit" or concidered "precision" to handle the heat without the oil. They need to be manufactured with slightly less percision for them to run at the required rpm and to be sealed from the dirt.
Mike

 

My brother is a Metallurgical Engineer and he owns Ceramic Technologies. He specializes in Ceramic Ball Bearings and has for 21 years. Send me the specs to scott@sunlineproducts.com and I will get after this.

What about a highly poished hybrid bearing using steel race's w/silicon nitride ceramic *****.

I just spoke with him and he is willing to help.

 

Sweeeet.
Looks as though there are a few possiblities being worked on. Thanks to all that are working to resolve this. We appreciate your efforts!

 

Replaced my bearing yesterday and there was a little catch in it but would have gone much longer. Started it up and what do you know,SQUEAK SQUEAK SQUEAK, Dammed if it isn't the regulator!
Has anyone ever repalced just the bearings in a modern day regulator?

 

Of the people that have lost the idler bearings how many of you have your lower engine shield removed? I know that some were removing them thinking they would cool better but I being more a road course driver have left all the aerodynamics on and my bearing showed absolutly no signs of rust or even a real lose of lubricant. The shield may have aided in this.
Just a thought...
Thanks;
Mike

 

Montana, assuming you mean alternator. Dont know if I would trust myself to change the bearings in the alternator.

MikeR

 

Completely agree with keeping the engine-bay tray in place. Mine always has been installed (albeit a C32, not SRT6). If your idler bearing ever seized and the pulley and bolt come off, this tray also makes it MUCH more likely that you'll retain those parts instead of lose them by the time you pull over (especially if it happens at highway speed).

 

Yes I had to look back to see what I DID say and I am not sure where regulator came from. Boy thats showing my age isn't it.
ALTERNATOR

 

I am glad to hear I am not the only voice of reason here. When I heard some guys were taking them off for more cooling I brought up the Aero dynamic attributes of having a closed engine bay. You would have thought I insalted someone's Mom by the reaction from some of the members.
Thanks;
Mike

 

Kept my cover in place as well - It did save my idler - the next morning I found the idler laying on the cover after the 5+ mile trip home. I was able to keep the engine cool by just running the heater.

 

Phoned the local bearing supplier today - 6303 C3 clearance , double sealed ( fully sealed ) on the shelf $22.50 all up - one tube of PTFE grease sitting on my work bench - problem solved

Hell for that price you could afford to throw a new one in every 12 months

 

It's as if no one is listening.
That bearing especially a sealed (not shielded) bearing that size will not handle the RPM.
It doen't mean it MAY slowly wear out it means it can go to pieces at any given moment it exceads its' recommended top spead.
Did you bother asking what the "C3" disignation means.?
Problem NOT solved...

 

Hello from the Ozone, I am not listening but I can read.

I see we have thirteen pages and many views expressed. What we need is someone to answer the following questions so that we, who may have picked up somethings usefull and somethings stupid, understand the facts on bearing selection.

1, The effect of Load on the RPM rating of a bearing.
2, What material should the bearing be? St.Steel, Steel, Ceramic, or
Ceramic Hybrid
3, What is the difference between a seal and a shield? (No, one of them
does not live in the sea)
4, Seal (or shield) material
5, Oil or grease? (simple question)
6, Cage material?
7, Bearing tolerance class required and why?
8, The effect of bore and shaft hole sizes on fits?
9, If we have a slightly smaller bearing, that runs faster can we use it?
If so why?
10, If we had more ***** (no comments please) in the bearing, would that
would that be better or worse? and why?
11, What specification for a bearing would suit this problem? I suggest
an off the shelf bearing? Anyone who has custom parts made knows
the cost.

Simple Eh?