Okay. I was thinking that the factory piece was on the bottom. As you can tell, I havent had mine out yet or the bumper off. I was thinking of the bottom deflector actually sitting below the bumper about an inch and pulling more air up from underneath. Curbs would be the biggest worry and since our cars are so short I am usually not anywhere close to them. I'll do some cogitating when I get to installing the LET HE from Woody.

MikeR

 

Is it next week yet??

 

Update. Calling it officially solved.
Moved the heat exchanger to a higher location in the air flow (Dr. Woody's suggestion) and so far I have NOT had the issue of going into overtemp with the supercharger shutting down!
All of you stock guys now running a aftermarket pulley keep this in mind of you encounter this problem.
Thanks to all that had suggestions/comments!
dj

 

The true test will be when summer comes around again next year. The days are cooling off really nice now.

 

Everyone thought (including me) that I would be the one chasing the dreaded IAT overtemp issue when I purchased the 185mm pulley

Never an issue for me....(knock-on-wood)...any improvement over stock never hurts and should give you some engine timing back...

 

that is very strange you had to do this, mine has ran flawlessly in 90+ degree weather even on 6+hour trips and racing.

 

I agree with you photoman. Mine has worked flawlessly in 108 degree TEXAS temps for the past 6 months.

 

You are both correct, I think it's something in the water.

 

By then I will have come up with a better HE cooling system.

 

For inspiration, look at the videos of the H/E and the track day at mir. I had a vid for the afternoon, but decided to hold off doing it, the air got up to mid 80 and was similar in readings , up fast down fast. Woody ENJOY

 

Tighed, I would definately do some investigating. Something is up. I put on a code3, and heck I even had it installed wrong, and its been 93 degrees this week in Tucson and my temp gauge never went over half and I've never lost S/C.

If you've already flushed your system, and you're sure your pump is working fine, then maybe look into the intake air temp sensor... Its readings are the sole deciding factor of if the computer shuts off the s/c clutch. If yours is quirky, or hey maybe even just covered in oil, it might give erratic readings with the hotter IAT from the code3.

Anyways glad to see you're having fun again. And good job on the H/E re-mounting. I didnt want to re-mount mine so I'm, well, uninstalling it completely and putting in a few fluid coolers instead, including one behind the upper grill.

 

Time to bring up this issue again as there have been new developments.
To quickly sum up the problem, after installing the Code 3 pulley my car would overtemp shutting down the supercharger circuit.
Well nearly a year later I had to return the car to 100% stock for warranty work, supercharger replacement. While changing the SC they decided to replace the intercooler also. I have since re-installed the code 3 and the 181 pulleys and now have no overtemp issues even while running the stock heat exchanger in it's stock location.
So it appears that my intercooler may have been the problem all along as far as the over temp issue goes. Just wanted to update in case it can help someone later.
Now I have to put the tighed1/woody super cooler back on so I can be even cooler!

 

nice to go back once in awhile and get updates...I have yet to have any real shut down problems with the C3. I haven't done any cooling mods to date, and haven't installed my johnson pump yet....so, I know in the future I need to do this, but the car is performing fine right now...thanks for the update...although I did have to replace the SC temp sensor...which could give same indicators...

 

Early on I posted the problem I had with my cooling system and that I ran radiator cooler cleaner thru it and drained it into a cloth. THe cloth had lots of gunk in it and I believed that there was a film build-up on the walls of the radiator and heat exchanger surfaces. I suggested then that if another member had heating issues, they should flush with cleaner and drain it to see if they also get gunk in the cloth.

Its a thought and cleaning the system should be done every couple of years anyway for preventive measures.

Woody

 

woody considering how particular m/b is with the cooling system , meaning only run their coolant with distilled water. what did you use to flush the i/c? this seems like something that should be done when the rad is flushed as a preventative measure. when i flushed mine i only drained all the fluid ran pure distilled water then drained again and filled with 50/50 mix. i would gladly drain it again and flush it to clean the i/c if i knew it wouldnt hurt my engine over time

 

Me Iam a Prestone guy and use their flush and their antifreeze with 50-50 distilled water. NEVER failed me and I even run with the presure cap loose so there is not pressure on the system. I dont like the accordian pressure effect of going 0- 17psig every time I start the car and then 17
-0 when it cools.

Me Iam old and have replaced my share of heater cores and soldered too many radiators after I rodded them -- you dont wanna know what that is.

Remember clean is next to impossible and

Clean is invisible

Woody

 

Sometimes its fun to see old threads get updated...

I actually had this same problem, my turned out to be a bad ambient air temp sensor. It kept telling the computer it was -40F outside, causing the computer to dump fuel t compensate for the really cold air. This would cause S/C overtemp and shut it off...

Pulled the sensor and all good, now its been replaced.