There is another comany that makes these as well and is also a little cheaper. There is also an option to cool your intake temps as well. If you search the SVT, Cobra and Lightning forums they love these and posted up dyno's and videos showing the results.

http://killerchiller.com/



For air to air intercooling
any make or model
System will drop air charge
temperature approx 30 degrees
lower than standard passive systems

All electric. Alternator upgrade required.
System comes with "Chiller" assy, all electrical harnesses, LED lit power switch, brackets, hardware, basic digital gauge (optional upgrade available), and installation manual.
Dimensions:
33" length 6"Height 4"width 3"inlet - outlet Power requirement: 12-16 volts @ 40amps


From their FAQ page:

 

I guess I gotta get into this one, its my area anyway.

40 amps at 12 volts is 480 watts and about 1 horsepower input to create this much power. would say lets see the charts first cause the TE coolers are inefficient and for 480 watts in Id guess that you get 120 watts of cooling which is only 360 btu's. I believe the A/C is about 12,000 btu per hour or 200 btu per minute. I thought of this and walked away from it in an earlier post as not worth the minimal gains.

A big fan on the intercooler would make much better sense to me.

Today I was running on the autocross track and my bigger intercooler was showing a water temperature difference of OVER 50 degrees. I have 3.1 GPM with my johnson pump and all that works out to 1240 btus per minute, mind you I was not on the gas but about 50% of the time, turns and such. Thats over 6 times the A/C's capability.

It sound too good to be true and there fore Id suggest caution, read the specs. Water temp in versis out.... Oh I do freon every day, Id NOT TOUCH MY CAR FOR THIS DEAL.

PS the write-up stated that the A/C cuts off when your in boost .....Ah and it does what for me then?

Sweating the details: Woody

 

OK - to rejuvinate an old thread......
Kincaid had a burglary and are finally back on track for KC's

They have them for $750 with some discharge/recharge costs from your local AC shop.
".....We use a 70,000 BTU/hr, 28 plate exchanger, rated at 450 psi. The unit is made of 316-SS. The water side uses 3/4" 90 degree barbed fittings, and the A/C side uses #8 AN male fittings....We can knock $100.00 off of that, if you can get 5 or more to sign up...."

Key here is the discussion I want to get into.....
70,000BTU/hr (20kW/hr) is the quote.
However that is at odds with the capacity of the AC compressor we run. Hence why I would like to question if a larger AC compressor may also be required.

Steve - feel free to chime in - even tho you drive a P
b22b

 

found a part number but no specs on the AC system
like BTU/hr would be useful....

PN = 0002307611

 

Im working on a all electric cooling system to work with our factory air to water intercooler system. Tec's will be used to cool the system below ambient air temperature even if you are spinning your supercharger beyond its limits (62mm upper and 185mm lower) At this point im working the bugs out. Systems will be ready for sale ASAP.......

 

W O N ' T W O R K A S I N T E N D E D. Car a/c is about 1 ton, about 12,000 btu per HOUR. Woody

 

I already have a killer chiller from Kincaid, the hoses and fittings are all set up for Mustang, I have had this killer chiller for about seven months, it is new, trying to find a barbed tee, for the suction side, and a larger one for the high pressure side, so far has been impossible, I do know of a killer chiller mounted on a E 55 Mercedes, there is such a thing as a killer chiller E 55, Kincaid doesn't have it, and I can't find one. So mine is been sitting on the shelf brand-new for seven months and I'm waiting to find somebody they can make these two barbed fittings,, to make this work you have to tie and the rubber hose on the high pressure side and you have to tie-in to the rubber hose on the suction side. Unless of course you had a AC bidding with the connections that you could just screw it on to the metal hose and then screw your rubber hose onto it and still have the one in coming out with the killer chiller to. Anyway if anybody is looking to buy this also it to you for the 600 bucks. jim

 

Sorry to Rain on your parade....but to remove the added enthalpy (20+kW) using electircal power - primarily from some 12V supply from the car would require signifcant amperage and illogical cable sizing....however - I wait with interest.

 

You have to question the church. . . . . . .Killer chiller, Not.

Please note the cool tank is at idle, not under boost.

The video did not show intake air cooling at WOT, just driving about . . . . .

The air at the registers were below 20 degrees, HOW you ask. That is an infrared pyrometer, or non contact temperature gun. You measure temps by sensing the amount of long infrared light given off by all objects above absolute zero.

You can not measure the temps with the cold air blowing into the end of the gun, you have - should - sense or measure off axis to keep the air out of the business end of the "gun".
My vents are 40-55 on a cool day, never below 32 degrees or else it will freeze the condensate and FREEZE OVER, a bad thing.

Your home has a 2 to 5 ton A/C system, which means that it removes 2 x 12,000 to 5 x 12,000 btus per hour.

Our cars have a cooling capacity of about 1 ton or 12,000 btus per hour which is about 200 btus of cooliing per hour. 200 btus per minute will cool 200 pounds of water ONE degree per minute. 200 pounds of water is about 25 gallons. If your cooling 2 gallons, that could be 2 x 8pounds per gallon or 16 pounds of water. With a capacity of 200 btus per minute that would be able to cool the 16 pounds about 12 degrees - per minute.

SOOOO that would cool a couple of gallons of water 12 per minute max, and that is not counting that the water is also being heated by the I/C. I posted this idea LONG TIME ago, and then countered my thinking after I did my math.

Of course the last thing you can expect is for the A/C to run at WOT, it is cut out. There is a reason, for the engine at 6000RPM is whirling the compressor way faster. IT will blow up big time. I was feeling giddy and shifted to third one day long time ago in my pinto at about 7000-7500 with the A/C on and the cloud of Freon was way visible in a hurry as the rods in the A/C left the case. I used to buzz that modified pinto up to close to 9000 in autocrossing, to keep the 4.11 : 1 going on the straights. Wide open throttle is bad for A/C compressors, boom.

This is as viable as the "electric supercharger". The both work, they just done work well enough to be worth the cost of admission. Enjoy.

Woody

 

Soundz like the need for some motivation buddy - that's okay we all suffer from it.
How many unfinished projects we all got out there....although I'd love to hear some results from someone running a KC on these cars. Steve (32Krazy) only had it on his car for a few weeks before he sold it and has been noticeably absent since he is probably pouring his heart into his latest toy and chasing sub 11's by now.

With all his logging capability I think if he'd noticed any sig dif he would have let everyone know by now.

As for Woody's stats - interesting....will comment later.

 

Good point!

In SI units for us malaligned ludites.....7-17kWhr

.....3.5kW - I'm suprised so low....but your call. I understood AC to consume between 5-10hp off the crank - with a COP of at least 2.5 to 3....that to me would mean 15-30ho of cooling capacity....or 12-23kW.....???? maybe my premise of 5-10 is wrong.

.....3.5kW - is the equivalent of 7.3L cooled 12degF in 58 seconds

Being heated by the IC - are you refering here to the charge air cooler?

.....I dont disagree, but I'd like to rerun one of your youtube videos and do a time stamp on it ...
I recall you lost 17degF in something less than 30 seconds? That would equate to 9.6kW from the IC. Add an extra 3.5kW of KC and you could pull them down another 6F per 30 seconds - or 23F instead of 17F .....Having said all that....probably not much better than an LET or an increase in IC capcity (via eff. and area) of 30% - doable.

.....good point - what speed does it cut out at?
Of course you'd still have AC on the coast back to the restart.....

 

so true and we will see soon! jim

 

You're not raining on my parade at all!!! Maybe you're not taking into consideration the amount of heat that the factory air to water intercooler is removing. I have a feeling no matter what I say you're not going to be convinced that this system works, and that's okay!

 

I dont mean to say it wont work, just not as intended. You can pre cool the water, but the a/c will not effect a gain while in boost, there is simp-ly TOO much heat to expell, well above the capacity of the a/c. Pre cool yes, while on the track your advantage is gone well before the 330 foot light.

See my video of the 12 second run and note the rate of rise in the coolant water in my system with the oversized cooler and pump. Also note that the water temp rise has some latency in the instruments , but Ill give that one to ya. I had about 3 gallons of capacity and a flow rate measured at between 3 and 4 gallons per minute with the Johnson pump.

Video should be here

MIR race of Crossfires - YouTube

Woody

Show me the data/ charts / Beef.

 

More.
1. Introduction
The mission at the U.S. Department of Energy's (DOE) National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) is to lead the
nation toward a sustainable energy future by developing renewable energy technologies, improving energy efficiency,
advancing related science and engineering, and facilitating commercialization. The goal of the Cool Car Project is to work
with the automotive industry to reduce the fuel used for vehicle climate control by 50% in the short-term and 75% in the
long-term while maintaining or improving the occupantsí thermal comfort and safety.
The power necessary to operate a vehicle air-conditioning compressor is significant ñ it can be greater than the engine
power required to move a mid-sized vehicle at a constant speed of 56 km/h (35 mph). A 400-W load on a conventional
engine can decrease the fuel economy by about 0.4 km/L (1 mpg). The United States could save over $6 billion annually if
all the light-duty vehicles in the country achieved a modest 0.4-km/L (1-mpg) increase in fuel economy.



We estimated the impact of auxiliary loads for the driving cycles scheduled for use in U.S. EPA certification
procedures: FUDS (an urban driving cycle), HWFET (a highway driving cycle), SC03, and US06. The HEV had a
combined metro-highway fuel economy of 5.19 L/100 km (45.4 mpg).
The maximum thermal cooling load was assumed to be 7 kW. The net coefficient of performance of the electrically
driven air-conditioning system, including the efficiency of the compressor and the electric motor required to drive it,
was assumed to be 2.33. This yielded a maximum electrical load (resulting from air-conditioning) of 3 kW, which
was added to the baseline value of 500 W in increments of 1000 W to determine the impact of auxiliary loads. All
simulated cycles for the HEV model started and ended at the same battery state-of-charge, to within 0.5% of the
initial pack capacity

3000 watts is about 10,239 btus (3.413 btus per watt, for thoes that like details)..... Like I said about one ton or 12,000 btus...........

Woody

 

Again, Your not going to allow anybody to convince you of anything you dont want to believe! At this point my only issue is dissipating the heat from the Tecs, I know what needs to be done its just going to take more money. I wanted to keep cost down to make the systems more affordable for all of us average income people.

 

yes - the last 24hr have convinced me the KC is simply an Add-on and no silver bullet.

I still haven convinced myself of the larger pump - higher flow idea - but the empricals are possibly there saying - decreasing the residence time in the IC is improving things....

But lets say it does....


So -

• larger IC (LET or whatever)
• 80deg Stat (hmm...or lock it open)
• High Flow Pump (Johnson or whatever)
• Coolant seperation
• Foil (baked potato) the Charge Air cooler - if you can form an air gap with air flow - even better
• Run low glycol ratio to increase cp
• KC to top it off with larger condensor and compressor if you got heaps of money/time.
• turn the cabin AC on when engine needs it and put the heater on (not sure if the AC is up or downstream of the cabin heater coils)

 

Correct Billy:

larger IC (LET or whatever) I like the size of the super cooler and its liquid capacity
80deg Stat (hmm...or lock it open) If its open you'll pull codes on COOL days, I do with 180 stat, Coolant not up to temperature! code

High Flow Pump (Johnson or whatever) check
Coolant seperation Totally a gain and less pressure on the i/c
Foil (baked potato) the Charge Air cooler - if you can form an air gap with air flow - even better From my old friend Brian, check He was also testing ICE in a cooler tank for the I/C but it melts way fast.
Run low glycol ratio to increase cp: Greater specific heat yes, add water pump lube for sure protection.
KC to top it off with larger condensor and compressor if you got heaps of money/time.
turn the cabin AC on when engine needs it and put the heater on (not sure if the AC is up or downstream of the cabin heater coils) Usually before the heater to allow dehumidification of car, DEFOGGER.

 

just a heads up, depending on your local track you could get the boot for running ac while racing. It happens here a lot during summer months. Leaving condensation on the track causes wrecks.

 

my suspiscion - just wasnt sure ....