My understanding with the level of the tank and lines is that the larger lines (about 3/4") are below the full line of both systems.

The smaller lines (about 3/8") are for when the system gets up to temp or hotter and fluid needs to "bleed out". When this happens the fluid begins to circulate through the reservoir.

So if I keep the new surge tank/reservoir at the same level as the OEM tank with the larger line going in on the bottom like the OEM and the smaller line in the top, it should function the same.

I'll have to wait and see. Maybe I'll try the tank on a stand outside the bay first for testing to see what level does what before mounting it.

Thanks for all the input.

 

Is there much of a difference in going the new tank route over using the needswings coolant separation kit?

I know Rob says the temps should never get high enough or build up enough pressure to need another tank? Is this still true if you use an ASP 178 pulley or similar?

 

Yeah, I saw that kit. It would be easy enough to try, but I'd like to have the tank just in case.

If in fact the inter cooler coolant temperatures never get above boiling then the expansion pressure would do nearly nothing. But if you close those valves while the system is at running temperature. Then you create a mild vacuum when the fluid is cold and mild pressure when the fluid gets above normal operating temperature.

That's why I would prefer to have a small tank with a reserve and air space for expansion. I'll put a pressure cap on mine, probably only 7lbs.

I'll be back to post pictures and results for sure when all is said an done, but it may be a week or so.

 

so it probably be best to install the isolation kit with valves open (as directed) then let it run a full heat cycle, cool down, then close the valves?

 

Rob builds good stuff and I have ordered a good bit from him but I do have a concern with his coolant separation kit. What happens if you are one of those "lucky" enough to develop an intercooler leak? I guess you would first notice with IAT's spiking and shutting down the SC but not sure how low the coolant would get to do that.

I am looking at running a separate reservoir at the very least I appreciate the peace of mind and I figure that a bit of extra coolant can't hurt. I was hoping to run a Mustang GT500 intercooler reservoir but it is a bit big.

 

That's exactly what I was saying. I just tied a little tank into the small line on the return. I seperated my system without any valves then realized I couldn't fill it. DUH!!

But I can run a different coolant like Engine Ice without worrying if it will get in the rest of the cooling systems.

 

I have been running the separation kit on the coupe for some time now with no issues. The roadster is stock...extra tank couldn't hurt, but I'm happy with the kit...simple enough...easy to do...but, hey....I still throw a couple bags of ICE on the SC between test and tune runs....lol

 

Where did you guys find - Hose Fitting 3/4” barb to 1/4” NPT

Checked a bunch of places and did not have any luck.

 

Have any of you who use two tanks for the seperation used alcohol (or windshield wash fluid) for the intercooler system? In the possible event of a leak in the intercooler core I would much rather see water and alcohol leak into my engine than eytheleen glycol prrmanent antifreeze. Old cars that used alcohol used 7 lbs pressure caps and 160 degree thermostats. The alcohol would boil away with a 180 degee thermostat. I do not think the intrrcooler water would normally exceed 160 degrees so it would not normally boil and therefore would not push water into a recovery tank.

 

this is kind of an older thread. I will have temp reading from my seperations after I install the a Dashdaq this weekend. Just not sure I would use alcohol for this. The innercooler leak haven't caused any real problems with the cars...just a pita to fix having to pull the s/c...

 

I have always been told that eythleen glycol is very hard on engine berings. I have built several small block pushrod engines. When compression is high they blow head gaskets. We raced thes with water wetter, water pump lube, and plain water to avoid eythleen glycol fing its way to the oil pump in the event of a blown head gasket. Ford small blocks had 10 head boltsonly (vs 14) and were very apt tp blow gaskets.