I take it this means it's shot?

Disconnected the electrical supply from it completely the other day and drove around all day, noticed no difference in acceleration at *ALL*, so I'm assuming it's done for.

Also someone suggested it coule be responsible for lurches when cruising too, which its been doing more now and at lower speeds, like 30-40mph all of a sudden Ill lurch forward all of a sudden for just a second. This is not the same as the tiny lurch I was talking about in another thread when just taking off, but this one is when actually cruising.

Anyway, I guess I'll be getting a johnson pump eventually or a Ford Lightning SVT unit and adapt it on the cheap.

 

So you notice no power loss? Or you haven't ever felt the power from your supercharger?

 

It's very possible it just hasn't ever worked, I've only had the car since the end of May and I do sense a lower power level but only moderately so. So if I do put the Johnson pump on there and that was the case, I may end up pissing my pants the first time I drive it.

If you remember when I first got the car I lost a light to light race with a new Jaguar XF V8 and this could have been why.

Not sure if these pumps make noise or anything either butI certainly dont feel or hear anything.

 

it sounds like to check to see if the pump was bad he disconnected it and it felt the same. if thats the case its a good way to check and see

 

Yea Voyager you're exactly right...

With all the consternation over this pump I was like well, I see there's an electrical connector, so let's see what happens if I just turn the thing off... If nothing happens I know something is broken, and sure enough, no change.

My *only* worry before I did this was that seeing as how coolant flows through it, I wasn't sure if disconnecting it would cause coolant to stop flowing through the system, but nothing happened, temps stayed the same.

 

ya know there is a johnson pump for sale right now on the parts section. you should check it out

 

The bosch pump makes very little noise and is hard to detect when running. It would be worth taking off and checking if the inside magnet is cracked. Does sound like the pump. Heres a lightning pump on ebay. On the mbworld.org forum someone posted the part number for the plug. I'll see if I can find it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-....c0.m245.l1318

 

Heres a tutorial from mbworld. Again the plug is pretty common. Another member mentioned it was the same as a fuel injector plug.
So, 1FASTC32 came up with the idea that the C32 intercooler pump (which routinely fails at 40-50k miles, or just after your warranty expires, to the tune of $600.00 in parts) is the same as the Ford Lightning pump which is currently available on eBay for $100.00 or so. I received mine today, and installed it this evening. Here is the skinny:

Pump is $89.00 shipped from Diversified Products (734) 459-0130.

Pump is the same Bosch unit used on the C32, with the following two exceptions: The wiring plug is different, and the water outlet and inlet tubes are slightly smaller on the replacement pump. Both of these issues are easily resolved, as described in the following installation steps:

1. Jack up front passenger side wheel, and remove.
2. Remove the roughly 1' x 1' plastic piece that is towards the front of the car in the passenger-side front wheel-well. This entails removing three 10mm bolts in the wheel well, one plastic plug in the wheel well, and two or three plastic plugs under the passenger side of the front bumper. Remove the plastic piece completely (do not try to just bend it to access the I/C pump).
3. You will now be able to see the P.O.S. intercooler pump. It is mounted to the car with a couple of nuts on studs below, and a small bolt in the same region. It has an inlet and an outlet hose, with those stupid spring-loaded hose clamps that are impossible to remove. Try pliers and a flat screwdriver.
4. Once you remove the hoses and the mounting bolts (and the 12v plug), you will now be able to remove the pump and mounting bracket.
5. Remove the metal mounting bracket and rubber sleeve from the old pump (you may need to pry between the sleeve and the pump to loosen the rubber sleeve from the metal) and save them.
6. Now you need to swap the plastic housing piece with the inlet and outlet tubes from the old pump to the new pump, as the new pump has tubes which are slightly smaller (the idea is to move the old inlet/outlet tube piece to the new pump). Unscrew the six star screws holding the outlet and inlet tube housing on the old pump. Remove the plastic piece with the inlet/outlet tubes. Now remove the similar piece from the new pump (gold Phillips screws). Take care, as those gold Phillips screws strip very easily. Now, carefully place the inlet/outlet tube piece from the old pump onto the new pump, taking care to assure that the orange o-ring is properly positioned. Secure the old inlet/outlet housing with the gold Phillips screws.
6. Using two appropriately-sized hose clamps (I tossed those spring-loaded things, and used traditional "screw-adjust" clamps), re-connect the plumbing to the new pump. Tighten the clamps.
7. Use the old mounting hardware (rubber sleeve and metal bracket) and mount the pump just like the old one.
8. Now for the electrical. You will note that the C32 electrical plug to the old pump is completely non-usable with the new pump. The new pump has small spades protruding, where the C32 plug is for very small posts. I cut the plug off of the existing C32 wiring coming to the pump, stripped a 1/4" piece of wire, and used two small female spade connectors, which slid right over the male spades coming out of the pump. I then slathered on some West Marine Liquid Electrical Tape to waterproof the whole thing. Not the prettiest solution, but it works.
9. Refill your liquid source for the pump, and voila. Check (before replacing plastic cover and wheel) by starting car, letting it run for a minute or so, and then turning off. Go over to the right front wheel. You should hear the pump running for 5-20 seconds after turning the car off. Check for leaks.

Hope this helps those of you who (like me) are out of warranty and do not want to pad the pockets of the Stealership.

Thanks to 1FAST for coming up with this idea. Hopefully will save us all some $$$

 

when my pump was bad I had little problems in town. problem came after 10 to 15 minutes cruising at55 to 65. try to pass and there was NO power what so ever. Not a little difference mind you, this is the equivalent of driving a massively underpowered scooter - there is no mistaking it - if you have a bad pump you know it

 

Great, thanks for all the info guys.

 

Cruzinquick, thanks for the instructions.

I got the Johnston Pump and it goes into the shop next week, therefore does anyone have the wiring instructions for the old plug with the Johnston pump?

Thanks.

 

Your welcome. The johnson pump will require you to make changes to your hoses. I believe the inlet and outlet are just a little bigger than the stock hoses. Maybe someone else can chime in. Also the stock bracket that holds the ic pump will have to be modified to hold the larger johnson pump.

 

I dont think you modify hoses... I think you take the top part of the stock/dead pump that has the inlet/outlet on it and screw it onto the johnson pump. Same thing with the Ford lightning pump. And I believe the johnson pump is physically 'skinnier' so some sort of padding around it will help to make it fit into the stock bracket.

Im saying based on what I've read, I've never actually seen the pump in person.

 

Yea with the Ford SVT pump you're exactly right, you just swap your inlet/outlet sections and then theres a few different options with the electrical connector. With the Johnson pump im not sure.

 

Don't think you can swap tops with the Johnson pump.

 

No swapping with the J-pump.
Another member here said the J-pump fittings are smaller and to use a piece of another hose as a shim to get to the correct size.

Kinda glad I went with the Lightning pump.... at least at this point.

 

I agree, I just don't drive the car hard enough or race it to where I need the reliability and robustness of the Johnson unit. The Ford one is a little cheaper and easier to install, and fits in the same spot.

 

So, what if this guy's SC just never overheated, even with his pump disconnected, so the SC kept working anyways?

Oh the drama!

 

With out a doubt. I know I was getting boost when my pump was not working at all. When I took my pump apart it was obvious it was not functional ( or had been for quite some time)
Also it is not a matter of the SC overheating it is just the intake air temp overriding the engagement of the clutch through the ecu (anti-detonation measure)

 

Thats what I was thinking, and it makes me even more anxious to install my ford pump when it arrives..... This car is definately fast, heck it puts my Mustang GT to shame, but I feel like there is something there thats lacking when compared to the youtube clips I see and stories you guys tell.