This will help you get it up ... Stud 5$ < each
This will help you get it up ... Stud 5$ < each
Well I seem to get a lot of heat for some ideas but what the hay....here is more red meat for the critics.
First the "pipe insulation on the door is 1" thick wall 1 3/8" refrigeration grade insulation that slips over the door handle without incident. If your my height the door handle gets me right at the knee cap, and on the weekends my 5 point harness does little to arrest the motion of my feet and it is durn uncomfortable to be hitting 1 G lateral loading in the turns when the knees are taking on the chin so to speak. The foam is cut to taper to the contour of the door panel for function ( thank you 240m3srt ) and can be removed without issue; slips off. Do I get points for aligning the factory imprinting so the is faces down and out of view. This piping has self attaching adhesive that glues the cut pipe edge to its self, nothing glued to car, thank you.
This is a tough audience for sure.
Anyway Mrs. Lincoln other than that, did you like the play.
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.
First the "pipe insulation on the door is 1" thick wall 1 3/8" refrigeration grade insulation that slips over the door handle without incident. If your my height the door handle gets me right at the knee cap, and on the weekends my 5 point harness does little to arrest the motion of my feet and it is durn uncomfortable to be hitting 1 G lateral loading in the turns when the knees are taking on the chin so to speak. The foam is cut to taper to the contour of the door panel for function ( thank you 240m3srt ) and can be removed without issue; slips off. Do I get points for aligning the factory imprinting so the is faces down and out of view. This piping has self attaching adhesive that glues the cut pipe edge to its self, nothing glued to car, thank you.
This is a tough audience for sure.
Anyway Mrs. Lincoln other than that, did you like the play.
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.
Last edited by waldig; 04-12-2008 at 09:48 AM.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
Is the refrigerator insulation what we are looking at in pic 2...from a direct side view? I assume it came in black or did you rattle can that too...j/k?
And i give you point for putting the seam down....as for the visible writing, thats just gangsta.
And i give you point for putting the seam down....as for the visible writing, thats just gangsta.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
I like your low cost wheel mounting bolt/stud solution. Certainly cheaper than what MetalNerd gets for its purpose built version of the same idea.
http://www.metalnerd.com/cat08.htm
http://www.metalnerd.com/cat08.htm
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
I know what you mean with the door bar, I just bought a 05 Ltd. and it's beating the hell out my knee. (Or vice/versa) I'll be getting some insulation this week, good idea. Also, in another post you said that you lowered your seat by 1.5", how did you accomplish that?
thanks
thanks
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
I've removed mine completly, and had an upolster shop make a nice leather strap to use for a handle, but I had to machine two alluminum anchor mounts to attach the straps the the door, looks slick hell. and a lot more knee room too. I 'm happier now.
Originally Posted by waldig
Well I seem to get a lot of heat for some ideas but what the hay....here is more red meat for the critics.
First the "pipe insulation on the door is 1" thick wall 1 3/8" refrigeration grade insulation that slips over the door handle without incident. If your my height the door handle gets me right at the knee cap, and on the weekends my 5 point harness does little to arrest the motion of my feet and it is durn uncomfortable to be hitting 1 G lateral loading in the turns when the knees are taking on the chin so to speak. The foam is cut to taper to the contour of the door panel for function ( thank you 240m3srt ) and can be removed without issue; slips off. Do I get points for aligning the factory imprinting so the is faces down and out of view. This piping has self attaching adhesive that glues the cut pipe edge to its self, nothing glued to car, thank you.
This is a tough audience for sure.
Anyway Mrs. Lincoln other than that, did you like the play.
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.
First the "pipe insulation on the door is 1" thick wall 1 3/8" refrigeration grade insulation that slips over the door handle without incident. If your my height the door handle gets me right at the knee cap, and on the weekends my 5 point harness does little to arrest the motion of my feet and it is durn uncomfortable to be hitting 1 G lateral loading in the turns when the knees are taking on the chin so to speak. The foam is cut to taper to the contour of the door panel for function ( thank you 240m3srt ) and can be removed without issue; slips off. Do I get points for aligning the factory imprinting so the is faces down and out of view. This piping has self attaching adhesive that glues the cut pipe edge to its self, nothing glued to car, thank you.
This is a tough audience for sure.
Anyway Mrs. Lincoln other than that, did you like the play.
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
captjoe222: The seat was a *****, I had to pull it out and wished I were in better shape or younger, its heavy and awkward.
The carpet has molded foam beneath the seat, that needs to be removed to allow the seat to sit lower. I used a pneumatic die grinder and cutoff wheel to section and remove the rear seat pillars. These little beasties provided the drop I wanted, the seat is too well designed to shorten, what with the motors and gear rack. I added a 1 1/2"wide metal strap between the rear bolts, under the car to provide a stronger anchor for the rear seat bolts. I used 8 grade bolts and then double nutted them from under the car. This is not easy and as we used to say in IBM, this is not a one bananna issue.[ a one bananna fix is one that any monkey can fix, if it gets more difficult you need to provide a second or third bananna to get er dun! ]
Maxwell, I would greatly enjoy the strap photo that you fashioned, it sound great. I would like if cause it would provide greater room and a bit of the european AC Bristol kind of flair.
Enjoy Woody
The carpet has molded foam beneath the seat, that needs to be removed to allow the seat to sit lower. I used a pneumatic die grinder and cutoff wheel to section and remove the rear seat pillars. These little beasties provided the drop I wanted, the seat is too well designed to shorten, what with the motors and gear rack. I added a 1 1/2"wide metal strap between the rear bolts, under the car to provide a stronger anchor for the rear seat bolts. I used 8 grade bolts and then double nutted them from under the car. This is not easy and as we used to say in IBM, this is not a one bananna issue.[ a one bananna fix is one that any monkey can fix, if it gets more difficult you need to provide a second or third bananna to get er dun! ]
Maxwell, I would greatly enjoy the strap photo that you fashioned, it sound great. I would like if cause it would provide greater room and a bit of the european AC Bristol kind of flair.
Enjoy Woody
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
Originally Posted by waldig
captjoe222: The seat was a *****, I had to pull it out and wished I were in better shape or younger, its heavy and awkward.
The carpet has molded foam beneath the seat, that needs to be removed to allow the seat to sit lower. I used a pneumatic die grinder and cutoff wheel to section and remove the rear seat pillars. These little beasties provided the drop I wanted, the seat is too well designed to shorten, what with the motors and gear rack. I added a 1 1/2"wide metal strap between the rear bolts, under the car to provide a stronger anchor for the rear seat bolts. I used 8 grade bolts and then double nutted them from under the car. This is not easy and as we used to say in IBM, this is not a one bananna issue.[ a one bananna fix is one that any monkey can fix, if it gets more difficult you need to provide a second or third bananna to get er dun! ]
Maxwell, I would greatly enjoy the strap photo that you fashioned, it sound great. I would like if cause it would provide greater room and a bit of the european AC Bristol kind of flair.
Enjoy Woody
The carpet has molded foam beneath the seat, that needs to be removed to allow the seat to sit lower. I used a pneumatic die grinder and cutoff wheel to section and remove the rear seat pillars. These little beasties provided the drop I wanted, the seat is too well designed to shorten, what with the motors and gear rack. I added a 1 1/2"wide metal strap between the rear bolts, under the car to provide a stronger anchor for the rear seat bolts. I used 8 grade bolts and then double nutted them from under the car. This is not easy and as we used to say in IBM, this is not a one bananna issue.[ a one bananna fix is one that any monkey can fix, if it gets more difficult you need to provide a second or third bananna to get er dun! ]
Maxwell, I would greatly enjoy the strap photo that you fashioned, it sound great. I would like if cause it would provide greater room and a bit of the european AC Bristol kind of flair.
Enjoy Woody
If your looking for a nice strap, I suggest you head over to your nearest department store, and look for discounts on leather belts. They always have classy designs or leather engraved belts cheap.
the next piece I have to make is a classy end cap cover that fits over the strap and clips on the anchors so I can cover the screws.
Last edited by Maxwell; 04-13-2008 at 10:17 AM.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
[FONT='Tahoma','sans-serif']IS THIS A JOKE??? WTF are you doing to your car? First you put a 2x4 with wood screws for your foot rest and you paint it black... you stick a mouse pad on your door and now you insulated your door handle so it doesn't hit your knee cap?...WHY did you buy this car... trade it in for a Cadilac or a crown Victoria!!!!!! It is people like you and people that SUPPORT you that will make me stay away from this forum and probably this community. This should be banned!!!!I can't think of a bad enough word to use and characterize you right now... I thought people that put house speakers in their cars are ghetto. You are going too far. I would rather have you talk **** about this car than see you doing that to it... you should be locked up in a mental institution and I DON'T CARE about your comeback, there is nothing you can say that will make me even reply to you!!!
And now this goes for the rest of this forum:
ARE YOU ALL MAD??? How can you look at those pictures and not cry and let this freak post such things??? WHAT is wrong with you people? These are luxury sports cars made in Germany... you guys don't know how to respect sh*t!...
^^excuse my English but I am extremely pissed off right now…[/FONT]
And now this goes for the rest of this forum:
ARE YOU ALL MAD??? How can you look at those pictures and not cry and let this freak post such things??? WHAT is wrong with you people? These are luxury sports cars made in Germany... you guys don't know how to respect sh*t!...
^^excuse my English but I am extremely pissed off right now…[/FONT]
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
It would seem that some people here have the capacity to become unhinged easily.
After getting a lot of good hearted ribbing from some of the club members, I found that some have an advanced sense of humor, thats healthy. I only wish April 1st had not passed for I had an idea that would play to thoes stable enough to understand humor, well see how it goes.
Some have embraced the changes, still others have seen that there are more than one approach to altering their environment to suit their tastes.
I have enjoyed interaction with thoes who do their own work on their cars as several changes I made were devised by their efforts. That is the idea behind forums, the interplay of ideas between individuals with the ability to grasp new concepts and to question the church as it were.
There are too many opportunities in life to enjoy, and so little time to accomplish them all.
Personally I dont have time to deal with people exibiting hypomania and who are afraid of playing with their toys, for fear that they will break them. I leave them to their own internal demons.. Life is too short for hate, Enjoy
Woody
After getting a lot of good hearted ribbing from some of the club members, I found that some have an advanced sense of humor, thats healthy. I only wish April 1st had not passed for I had an idea that would play to thoes stable enough to understand humor, well see how it goes.
Some have embraced the changes, still others have seen that there are more than one approach to altering their environment to suit their tastes.
I have enjoyed interaction with thoes who do their own work on their cars as several changes I made were devised by their efforts. That is the idea behind forums, the interplay of ideas between individuals with the ability to grasp new concepts and to question the church as it were.
There are too many opportunities in life to enjoy, and so little time to accomplish them all.
Personally I dont have time to deal with people exibiting hypomania and who are afraid of playing with their toys, for fear that they will break them. I leave them to their own internal demons.. Life is too short for hate, Enjoy
Woody
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
Originally Posted by tttosrt6
[FONT='Tahoma','sans-serif']IS THIS A JOKE??? WTF are you doing to your car? First you put a 2x4 with wood screws for your foot rest and you paint it black... you stick a mouse pad on your door and now you insulated your door handle so it doesn't hit your knee cap?...WHY did you buy this car... trade it in for a Cadilac or a crown Victoria!!!!!! It is people like me and people that SUPPORT me that will make you stay away from this forum and probably this community. I should be banned!!!!I can't think of a bad enough word to use and characterize myself right now... I thought people that put house speakers in their cars are ghetto. You are going too far. I would rather have you talk **** about this car than see you doing that to it... you should be locked up in a mental institution and I DON'T CARE about your comeback, there is nothing you can say that will make me even reply to you!!!
And now this goes for the rest of this forum:
AM I MAD??? (YES YOU ARE)How can you look at those pictures and not cry and let this freak post such things??? WHAT is wrong with you people? These are luxury sports cars made in Germany... you guys don't know how to respect sh*t!...
^^excuse my English but I am extremely pissed off right now…[/font]
And now this goes for the rest of this forum:
AM I MAD??? (YES YOU ARE)How can you look at those pictures and not cry and let this freak post such things??? WHAT is wrong with you people? These are luxury sports cars made in Germany... you guys don't know how to respect sh*t!...
^^excuse my English but I am extremely pissed off right now…[/font]
You are cordially invited to leave and never come back Mr. 50 Posts and 0.41 posts per day. It's obvious after reading through your other posts that you have nothing to contribute to this forum. Waldig is a valued member of our community and should be left to do as he wishes, weither we like what he does or not. It's people LIKE YOU that make this forum less than it could be. Please STFU and Get The **** Out. Thank you and have a lovely day(somewhere else).
EDIT: I know this is a family rated forum, and I appologize to the rest of you for my harse words, but I felt it needed to be said. I hope you agree and understand.
Last edited by NeverEnough; 04-14-2008 at 09:29 AM.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
Originally Posted by NeverEnough
FIXED IT FOR YAH!
You are cordially invited to leave and never come back Mr. 50 Posts and 0.41 posts per day. It's obvious after reading through your other posts that you have nothing to contribute to this forum. Waldig is a valued member of our community and should be left to do as he wishes, weither we like what he does or not. It's people LIKE YOU that make this forum less than it could be. Please STFU and Get The **** Out. Thank you and have a lovely day(somewhere else).
EDIT: I know this is a family rated forum, and I appologize to the rest of you for my harse words, but I felt it needed to be said. I hope you agree and understand.
You are cordially invited to leave and never come back Mr. 50 Posts and 0.41 posts per day. It's obvious after reading through your other posts that you have nothing to contribute to this forum. Waldig is a valued member of our community and should be left to do as he wishes, weither we like what he does or not. It's people LIKE YOU that make this forum less than it could be. Please STFU and Get The **** Out. Thank you and have a lovely day(somewhere else).
EDIT: I know this is a family rated forum, and I appologize to the rest of you for my harse words, but I felt it needed to be said. I hope you agree and understand.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
Originally Posted by waldig
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.
Re: This will help you get it up ...Stud 5$ < each
I for one welcome anyone who has the desire to modify their car to suit the purpose they use it for. Waldig has done lots of tinkering for all forum members to embrace or disgard as they choose. This forum is an integral part in disseminating information that otherwise would not be available. So I say to all forum members keep the ideas flowing that is how the human race makes progress!
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