I am surprised Brandon from Code 3 didnt post this over here as well so I thought I would do it for him.

$25 PCV Solution for C32 ~ DIY
I for one am sick of the amount of oil pulled into the intake, SC, and IC. When I was on vacation, we were driving along, and the check engine light came on. I pulled the code, and it was the IAT sensor. When I got home, I pulled everything apart, and lo and behold, the IAT sensor was covered in oil. In fact, everything was covered in oil again (intake, surge tanks, throttle body, y-pipe, and ic). Considering it had only been about a month since I cleaned everything, I was disappointed to say the least. So I finally decided to put together an oil catch can setup. I really don't have a lot of extra money right now. So I figured I could put together a budget oriented catch can setup, and share it with everyone. This is what I came up with.

Here is a shot of the normal PCV setup on the C32

There is one port on the passenger side, and two on the driver side. One port on each side connects underneath the throttle body, and is plugged into the underside of it. The second port on the driver side goes to the intake.

Here is a shot of my modified PCV setup

I capped off the the port on the end of driver side valve cover, the throttle body, and the intake (indicated in red). I then ran a hose (green)from the Y under the throttle body to an air compressor filter (blue), then another hose to the empty vacuum port on the sc.

Here is what I purchased:

• 1/2" to 3/8" barbed coupler
• 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barbed fitting
• 1/4" NPT to 1/8" barbed fitting
• teflon tape
• hose clamps x 2
• 3/4" vacuum cap x 2
• 1/2" vacuum cap
• 1/2" hoses x 4'
• 1/4" hoses x 4' (the 1/4" hoses fits on the 1/8" barb nicely)
• Mini Air Compressor Filter
• bolts for mounting
• zip ties for hose routing

Here is the modified setup off the car


Here is the coupling at the Y connection. 1/2" to 3/8" barbed.

 

Here is a closeup of the filter. Standard Husky mini air compressor filter. It has 1/4" npt fittings. One side is 3/8" barbed, the other is 1/8" barbed.


Here is a shot of the 1/2" cap on the underside of the throttle body. You can also see the empty port on the SC that is used to pull vacuum.


Here is a shot of the 3/4" cap on the intake.


Here is a shot of the 3/4" cap on the end port of the driver side valve cover.

 

Here is a shot of the filter mounted behind the driver side headlight. No special bracket needed. I just drilled a couple of holes and ran some bolts through to the filter that was already threaded.


Here is a shot of the routing of the hoses to the filter. Then the same shot with the hoses highlighted.



As you can see, it looks damn near stock. All of the parts cost around $25. The car idles and drives perfect. After some hard runs, its already collecting oil and water vapor. For the cost, I think this is a great solution.
__________________
Brandon Smith
Owner, Code3 Performance
www.code3performance.com
brandon@code3performance.com



BY the way the four image per post rule is kinda lame. ADMIN what are the chances we can raise the level a bit???

 

PVC = polyvinyl chloride; premature ventricular contraction

PCV = positive crankcase ventilation

Excellent job on this, Brandon.

 

Dang, Now I have more projects than I have weekends Thanks for the info, Now I need to find my catch can..

 

Ok, I updated the setup. Here is a shot of what I did.



Basically I used the stock hose coming out of the second driver side port, and cut it short. I then used a T to plumb it into the line going to the filter. Works perfect.

As far as the vacuum line going back to the SC, I know some people have been running there catch can setups successfully using this method. To be honest, the filter is collecting a good amount of blow-by, so I think its working fine. I am going to watch it closely, but so far so good. Let me see how that size of line handles the added plumbing.

I just wanted to update this thread as well.

 

Shouldn't you have added check valves instead of just capping off some of those connections? I'm not sure that I completely follow your setup from the pictures, so please excuse me if I'm completely wrong. However, coming from, and still in, the turbo world at srtforums there has been a lot of discussion about this.

I would definitely read around about what others have said with cars boosting 30+ PSI in a 4 cylinder in each of the following threads before just capping things off.

Here's a good post from a respected tuner that builds 8 sec drag neons:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f258...ml#post4482545

The above response was targeted at someone just wanting to run a breather filter.

Also, here's another thread with some drawings that should help understand the PCV flow better:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f241...c-info-261640/

Again, just throwing it out there because I think it warrants further discussion and review.

 

We dont have a traditional PCV valve. We have metered openings. Basically a baffled orifice that serves the same purpose of a check valve. With the update I just added ealier, all of the ports are now being ventilated just as they were stock. The only difference is they are being pulled into a filter first.

I am currently a member of the same world you are. I have a PT Cruiser GT that scoots along quite nicely

 

Looks like several of us SRT owners also have a Turbo PT

 

my co worked has a orange turbo pt, i cant remember the name nice dreams .. cruzing or something, anyway a nice ride 2.4 ltr turbo and it will Scoot . so would the 89 Dodge Conquest TSI

 

'89 Conquest - Only if it has a few mods. I had a 1987, and three 1989s. They're too tempermental, but i did love them. Have a friend who is works on them and gets well over 300 rwhp.



GOING BACK TO HTE PVC...

I believe that it is plummed a bit wrong. The air filter/dryer should be plummed between the valve covers and throttle body. The S/C will help evacuate moisture from the valve covers that would otherwise be introduced to the cars oil.

 

WARNING
the most important detail left out.


it should also be noted that all the Home Depot/Lowes water separators have a check valve in the plastic drain valve. you cannot use these under vacuum unless you put a plastic vacuum cap over the drainage nipple, otherwise it will not function correctly, it will just become a source of a vacuum leak!

 

post listing i lost

 

How man have done this mod? I have been noticing a good amount of blow by and after talking with Jerry(LET) I definitely am going to do this. I was just wondering if this setup still holds true.......

 

I am working on insalling a oil catch can as well. For those that have done this mod are you replacing the TB gaskets when you remove it (same for the surge tanks if you take them off as well)? If you are replacing the gaskets, where are you getting them?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

Im sure your supposed to replace all gaskets if you were to contact the FSM. But fwiw, i removed all the gaskets down to the heads and reused them with no leaks/issues yet.

 

Thanks! That is what I was thinking but I never heard anyone mention buying a gasket set. I will give it a go and see if I have any leaks.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

Would the procedure be much different for a N/A?

Also, are there any possible downfalls from this, like future CEL and such?

 

Thanks for the information and great photos!

 

I'd like to install one of these on my NA Crossfire - is it much different than what the photos show? Any tips for easy installation?