Well gang I have decided to be proactive and replace this item myself BEFORE it fails on me. My car is still under warranty for a good while but if it's only a few hundred bucks to it myself I really could care less...

So I have a few general questions...

1. What is the best pump to by regarless of cost (i want one that will last and one that is easy to install)

2. Is there any places online to order these or should I hit up an autozone or sumptin of that nature?

Thanks again gang...

 

Best pump?............. probably the Johnson CM30 - from time to time they pop up on e-bay (I got one there for about $85.
Next best pump...........the Bosch Ford Lightning intercooler pump - always available on e-bay for about $85.
Alternatively, contact Curtis at 1-800-301-2571 (a.k.a. C32AMG_FL on MBWorld - he works at a Ford dealership). He is a stand-up guy and has hooked many a C32 owner up with the pump and electric connection for under $100 shipped.
You'll lose about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of coolant.
Total, if you do it yourself (about 1 hour job the first time) it should cost you no more than $100.

 

1. Why you want to replace you pump.. I am not sure but to answer your question the cobra pump is supposedly more effective will there really be a difference? Unlikely..

there will be no gain and the new pump will be equally as prone to failure as your current pump.. and besides if yours fails while it is still under warranty which it most likely will not.. the replacement costs will be taken care of by the dealership and yes they are very high...

2. Your best bet is to order the replacement pump off ebay.. Autozone will not have this product..

Here is a good thread on the install of the ford lighting pump...

http://mbworld.org/forums/showthread...ight=ford+pump





i tried to answer your question via pm.. but here is some more information.. for others as well

 

johnson CM30 is the best/easiest to install from what I have read on MB forums. I read the CM60 flows more, but it is a bit harder to install.

 

I'm looking to be proactive on this. But from the way it sounds it does not matter as ALL the pumps available are no better than the others. I guess I should just wait until it breaks and claim it under the warranty...

 

CHi town,
If there was a better aftermarket option that yielded better performance results I can see your point of doing it yourself. But since general consensus is they are all about the same I would save the 100 bucks and do it under warranty if and when necessary.

 

Just a quick question on diagnosing a bad pump.....
Is the power loss experienced as extensive as is if you unplug the SC clutch electrical connection? When I did this and took it for a test spin the engine power was much less than just a N/A 6 cylinder. It ran, smooth idle and without missing, but it was WEAK.
Something curious did happened after I reconnected the SC clutch. When I took it for another test spin, to make sure the SC was back in service, upon the first hard acceleration from a stand still it would NOT stop spinning the tires ( I think that when it shifted into second the tires kept spinning). The power seemed better than ever but maybe it was just a fluke. I never tried to re-create the scenario.

 

I know that when the IC pump is going bad, it DOES feel like the car is a real dog (slower than a normal Crossfire).

I assume this is because the car is running so rich that it bogs it down. More air from a properly functioning supercharger requires more fuel. If that S/C suddenly stops working and the car is still dumping fuel, it will bog and run poorly with low power.

As far as unplugging it...I would THINK that the car would know when it is unplugged, therefore it would know not to dump too much fuel. Maybe not.

SQ

 

Close. The ECU goes into a limp mode when the supercharger overheats, limiting engine spark advance and disabling the supercharger clutch until the supercharger cools back down to acceptable levels. Being fuel-injected and ECU controlled, there is no possible way the vehicle will run overly rich if it doesn't have to. Modern cars will run stoichiometric at cruise, rich in acceleration, and lean in deceleration.

 

Part of the reason a supercharger car is slower then a N/A one when the supercharger isn't working is the superchaged car has lower stock compression ratio. The N/A car makes more HP/TQ then a superchared one without the charger.

 

Just my humble opinion... Make the extra effort and increase the plumbing pipe size to 3/4" including the charge air cooler inlet / outlet and increase the size of the heat exchanger to something like 3" x 6" x 18" it will fit right in front of your OEM AC condensor... Wrap your IC tubes in DEI Cool Tube and install Cool-It insulating mat under your charge air cooler.

Johnson Impeller Pump #10-24540-03 3/4" pipe barb
Bell Intercoolers L/A Heat Exchanger
DEI Cool Tube Extreme

You'll be good for some noticeable HP increase...

 

No alarms, no warning lights, no codes stored in ECU. That surprised me also.

So, I still wonder if the the power loss during SC over temp is as severe as unplugging the SC. If so then that symptom can't be missed!!

 

this intercooler is teh suck.. to ideal way is to have the whole thing rebuilt..

 

Links! Links! Links!

BTW...thanks!

 

Chi-Town,

Check out his last post here:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...t=18674&page=4

Rydiak,

You are likely correct - I doubt the car runs rich when the S/C cuts out, but DO think it is smart enough to know if/when the S/C is pushing air.

SQ