I just bought some digital gauges from Nordskog Performance for my SRT. I'm going to mount them in a Mustang gauge pod that will mount on the dash right above the vents in the center. I choose the green lit gauges with the silver bezels to somewhat match the existing color scheme. I order an air intake temp gauge to work along side a boost gauge that way I can see if there are any imminent problems with the intercooler water pump. Attached are some pics from their respective websites. I will do a write up once I receive them and do the install.

I have found out from an individual named Vadim on the MB forum that the ECU shuts the supercharger off when the factory air intake temp reads 225ºF.

 

Very nice - I was looking at Auto Meter full sweep 2" gauges for the pillar - but I like your idea and the prices of the digital gauges. I look forward to seeing your setup.

I was considering a boost gauge and a wide band air/fuel gauge. Cobalt series (replace blue backlit led with green) or go high end with the Nexus series and be able to add more gauges later (but big $$$). I would also like a oil temp and oil pressure gauge but just don't see the room.

I figured I could find a way to convert the stock outside air temp display to an intake air temp display, just not sure if the stock IAT sensor gives a full range temp reading or just an over-temp trip signal and if I would need to add another sensor.

Good luck and nice choices.

 

That should look pretty good in the car - they look fairly stock in the mustangs!

How do you plan to route your wiring/plumbing? Drilling a hole in the dash, or running them behind the dash?

That would be my main concern - although I would surely love to have a boost and IAT gauge if I could do it and keep it fairly stock appearing (and removable without damage).

Keep us posted!

 

My goal is not to drill the dash pad as I don't like that idea. It will be challenging but I like that kind of stuff. I plan to run the electrical towards the front of the car down through the defroster openings and tie into the power from the radio and hopefully utilize OEM holes in the firewall.

In the past I have always used mechanical gauges but since these are electrical they should be easier to install.

 

well if the s/c gets turned off then you won't boost which will show in the boost gauge. so i'd think having charge temp will be redundant.

 

You're right. I also want to see if there are signs, not just when the pump goes, of a failing pump. Gradual increases in air intake temp readings inform me of this.

 

Either way the pod looks nice, hopefully it will look clean on the dash. The gauges look nice and probably look almost stock; it's nice that they have peak and warning features.

 

I've wired my car for gauges. What you need to do is drill a hole in the fire wall on the driver's side, if its small and done right you won't notice it.

Then route the wire through the lower air vent on the center console (there's a space for it). This will route through to the other vent. You then need to remove the glove box and route the wire behind that and up through the space on the passenger side between the dash board, window, and a pillar. From there just secure the wire down along the window and you won't see anything.

This is the only feasible way I have found with out ripping out too much or drilling holes. I'll see if I can get some pics up.

Also what kind of sensor comes with the Air Temp sensor? And where would you mount it?

 

Yea pics would help. I'm having a hard time "seeing" the path of the wires.

It is a brass temp sensor. I plan on putting it somewhat close to the OEM sensor on the Y pipe that attaches to the intercooler.

Well I received the Autometer gauge pod today. It looks really trick on the dash. It matches the contour of the speedo & tach cluster perfectly. It's to bad the designers put that rib down the middle though. I still plan to not drill holes in the dash but if there isn't an easier way I'm not going to let that stop the install.

I haven't received any tracking info for the gauges yet.

 

I just spoke to Mike at Nordskog and the Air Intake temp gauges are on backorder. He said a coupe weeks. I'm realistic so I'm going to say a month. They revised the circuit board on the gauge which is why the backlog. This gives me plenty of time to figure out the mounting method of the gauge pod.

 

Here's how I mounted my gauges... I made this pillar. Sorry this was with my camera phone, but it looks really nice in person.

 

Looks good! Did you modify a different pillar mount, or just make your one entirely? It shouldn't be too difficult with fiberglass.

I assume that is an actual SLK and not a XFire, right?

SQ

 

It's an MB but I do like the pillar mount. What pillar mount did you modify?

 

Yeah, it's an SLK. I added boost, AFR, and voltage gauges. That's an old pic, as I've recently upgraded to an Innovate wideband, so not all three gauges match anymore but for functionality, the trade-off was worth it.

I took a stock pillar and then one of those universal kits you can get for like $20 on ebay, and cut the pods off of it. Then glued them to the stock one in the position I wanted... then I wrapped it (in women's pantyhose nonetheless!!) and hardened it, then used fiberglass to strengthen the mold. Sand and sand and sand some more and paint and you've got a sleek looking pillar. I used the stock pillar so that the connectors and shapes on the back of the pillar would fit right into place already... and the end result is just that... like a glove. I called the dealer to see how much a new stock pillar would cost in case I didn't like it. It was $90, so I figure it was worth the risk and did it and liked it.

 

That looks great!! For us "Lazy" people who don't want to make one, is there one that will fit decent in the SRT6?

 

It turned out quite nice!

What did you use to harden the fabric? I know people use this tactic when making custom sub enclosures and what not, to make that 'curved' look...but I've never found the exact materials they are using.

SQ

 

Everything you need is at uscomposites.com
The exact stuff I buy is "635 THIN EPOXY SYSTEM" with 3:1 ratio hardener.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

For the curve, the pantyhose works great because it conforms to everything. I put gauge shaped MDF circles to plug the holes and keep them flat while the polyester hardened. To harden just use the epoxy, just like in fiberglass layers. For this particular project, you will want really thin layers of fiberglass, as it keeps shape better.

For this project I used 6 oz E-glass.
http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html

For final touches and to get rid of the fiberglass "scales" just put a light layer of bondo over everything and then sand it smooth. Use sandable primer to make it all one color and then look for imperfections and re-bondo those spots and then sand it. When the shape is how you want it, wet sand it with 400 grit sandpaper and then primer and wet sand again. Then when you paint the finish will be amazing. I had to do many many primer/wet sand layers with bondo touchups because when you use black paint, ALL imperfections show up, and I like it perfect.

My latest fiberglass mod... I made a new hood and air box, for a functional ram air/cold air intake system. I'll post pics when I can get to them.

 

Excellent info - I am very familiar with body and paint work, just not up on composites.


Off-Topic - but:
I'm anxious to see your hood - as I had the exact idea the other day. The location of the intake on the back of the engine really lends itself to a fairly easy 'ram air' setup through the hood. I'd hate to cut the stock hood, but if I ever come across one that is cheap, I'll be working on something to see what I can come up with.

Post a new thread with some pics!

SQ

 

Off topic as well but did you fiberglass your monitor into your dash? It looks very nicely done. I have been thinking of doing that as well. Wondering if you want to give up your secrets on that too... PLEASE.

 

Nice job on the gauge pod. Looks good!