Yes, I did that as well, but it took considerably longer and ended up being a pain to find a way to mount it from the back. In a nutshell... I took a monitor like this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/VM80-8-TFT-LCD-t...QQcmdZViewItem

and I removed the screen from the bezel, then cut the bezel out except for the posts (that hold the LCD to the back of it). Then I took out the stock panel and cut out everything in that area (that holds the radio in) and then cut the strip along where the buttons go. Then I took the top and bottom and fitted them where they needed to sit, and glued (hot glue... temporary and dries quick) the monitor into place in regards to the top cluster and bottom strip. Then I removed everything and used the width of the top and the width of the bottom to fill in the sides of the monitor that didn't fill the gaps on the sides entirely. Then I glued the backside of it with Duramix... it's expensive, but it's the best glue, PERIOD. I tried several epoxy's and it kept breaking... I asked a veteran fibreglassed and he swore by duramix and sure enough it's worth every penny. You'll need a special gun (around $60) and the tubes are $30 each and then you need the self mixing tips, don't remember how much those were. Sorry, no links but shouldn't be hard to find. Anyways, once it was all in place I tried several methods of brackets and they would all fail, or not tension high enough (would always sag) so finally I just silicone it in place, hasn't moved since. And if I ever need to take it out, I can just use a thin wire and cut it out. But I can access all the wires from behind by removing the panels to the side of the center console. You can't see it in this pic, but I did a similar integration on the bottom part too, I cut out and flush mounted a 4 port USB hub, so I can plug in USB drives or my portable keyboard.

I left out a lot of sanding and bondo shaping, and painting, but you get the idea.

 

Update:

I e-mailed Mike at Nordskog this weekend and he said that the air intake temp gauge [which was being revised] should be shipping sometime this week along with the boost gauge. They've been held up for 3 weeks now but I'm still anxious to get them installed. I was also please to see that Innovate Motorsports teamed up with Nordskog and came up with a matching wideband A/F gauge too. Looks like that might be another gauge to get.

Now that I have had all this time to think about mounting the gauges I might try making an A-pillar setup like AMGRasoul instead of using my dash pod. It sure would be easier to route the sensors to the engine bay. We shall see.

 

Update:

The gauges are in! Mike told me to expect an e-mail from their shipping department, but I never got it, instead I find a box at my doorstep—oh well. These puppies look trick! Here are a few pics of the setup. I hope to start the install very soon.

Edit: I posted a photo of the location of the gauge pod on the dash.

 

Nice! I thought about putting gauges there, just couldn't find anything that looked good there and I wanted 3 gauges so I picked the pillar. If I need additional gauges, which I think I might after my aftermarket ECU, I might consider relocating my Apexi and putting additional gauges there too. Where did you find those? I can't find the dash mount on the nordskog site, do they still carry them?

Also, do you plan on painting them? I bet you could color match either the dash color or the aluminum bezel color, and both would look great I think. Just wondering what the plans are.

Looking good though, keep the install updates posted!

 

It's actually an Autometer Mustang dash pod. I attached a PDF of the page from Autometer's website. It looks like I'm going to have to drill the dash and trim the rib on the dash too.

I've been thinking of ways to handle this. If anything I would try to match the dash (dark grey) rather than the silver. That center console is overkill in my opinion. Now what would be cool is to swap out my center console with the Benz version, then install the carbon fiber kit.

I know there are carbon fiber kits for the Crossfire but I don't like how the silver buttons stick out like sore thumbs against that black carbon fiber.

 

I might have an alternative to permanent modification...

How about taking the slide-out cupholder, and modifying the gauge cluster to be attached to that, so you can slide it in and out, and still sit flush and when locked into place still be stable. I'd have to look at it in person to be able to see how to attach it, but that's the route I would try first. Just an idea...

 

why not use the stock air temp sensor as your boost temp, it's already in the dash, the boost is constant on this car, what's the point of the gauge?

If you just want something to look at, how about an oil pressure gauge and trans temp? this seems more logical to me.

 

I totally know what you are talking about, however the Crossfire didn't come equipped wth that style cup holder .

Because I will know how much hotter the boosted air is from the ambient air outside. A good way to see how efficient/inefficient our intercoolers are.

No it's not. There is no way that I am going to have max boost while I am leaving from a stop sign under normal driving. You make it sound as if once the blower engages you are at 14.5 PSI. This simply isn't possible because superchargers build boost proportionately to engine RPM. Some, however, are more dependent like Centrifugal blowers. Another advantage of this gauge is that I can actually see if the blower is running or not.

These engines are also supposed to see occasional higher pressure levels at times. I want to know what those are. See attached screen shot from C32life.

Those would be some good additional gauges to invest in. Knowing the problems with the intercooler system is what made me decide on this gauge set.

 

[/quote]No it's not. There is no way that I am going to have max boost while I am leaving from a stop sign under normal driving. You make it sound as if once the blower engages you are at 14.5 PSI. This simply isn't possible because superchargers build boost proportionately to engine RPM. Some, however, are more dependent like Centrifugal blowers. Another advantage of this gauge is that I can actually see if the blower is running or not.

[/quote]

I should of reworded, I meant to say it's direct drive. I understand its a function of rpm, so the tach would probably be a better gauge to watch than going to all the effort of installing a boost gauge. but what ever, not trying to put you down do what you think is best. yet a data logger might be a better investment.

 

I want to monitor boost therefore I'm installing a boost gauge, why would I refer to the tach for boost levels?

I don't follow you on this one. I already explained why I bought the gauges. Your suggestions simply don't make any sense so how could you be putting me down?

Dataloggers (DL) are great. I plan on getting one in the future. I personally don't think they are a wise thing to have installed 24/7 because the way our diagnostic port is situated. Pretty much once the DL is plugged into the port it hangs down quite a bit (depending on which DL you get). It can get kicked and damage both the port and the DL itself.

 

I installed a boost gauge and it provides the driver with some really good info. (plus it's cool)

I have a request in with VDO for a data sheet on the Outside Air Temp sending module so I can match it up with Intake Air Temp module to plug and play with the dash display unit.