Sorry... I meant this...

"SI Bragging rights: Apparently, we've been the only tuner so far to get past the dyno-tune roadblock i.e. no more pulling fuses or spinning wheels on the dyno."

 

YGPM on availability bro.

 

I don't know, my bill was not itemized.

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I'm sure they lost money on me though for all the time that they spent working on it. Although, what "idiot" (that would be me) would leave their car to somebody they don't know for over a week (partly due to rain) and to get something that you're not sure what you'll end up getting and be charged for it?

I do hope that they develop more stuff for the xfire and everybody gains as a result. Hey Jose, i'll be first in line for your Stage II man...

 

as i mentioned in my thread, dynapacks tend to over rate slightly. the guy who runs the dyno shop told me his s2000 put down 211 whp on the dynapack, 200 on a dynojet (traditional roller dyno). dynapacks are far superior for tuning, which is why he uses that setup. dyno's are misleading, trap speeds are more accurate. the thing that IS correct, is the gain. so the 30 whp and 40+ feet of torque are for real. and this is far cheaper than renntech. i was expecting a bigger gain too, but still that torque curve is very nice.

 

Sounds like you have a real animal now, wow! when is the next upgrade. Go for 450 hp to wheels, wooohooo!!! You better start saving up for a new motor, lol.

I would like to see you install one of the G-Tech meters, I think they are very accurate for dyno and 0-60 numbers, most likely the G-tech is more accurate than SI's wheel dyno. They are only $200, you could easily spend more money on chassis dyno sessions.

 

I should start saving since my s/c had to be replaced at 20K miles before the mods.

If they managed to get the final HP close to 380, I would have shelled out the extra bucks and let them work on it some more to get it over 400. Now getting additional 45 WHP now seems to require a lot more time and $$$.

 

Are you sure?

 

dude... i knew you guys could do it but you didn't really say what's involved $ wise and assumed it's going to be a s-load of dollars...

k, now, if it's not a whole lot of money and going to be cheaper than upgrading the suspension first then i'm there...

though i'm gonna want a "loyalty discount" and I'll go ahead and take that damn carwash offer... haha...

btw, can i get the video so i can post it on youtube... hey man... giving you guys free advertising... :-)

 

Yes sir, you've got PM.

JP@SI

 

Well which things were you interested in HP-wise? (Let's migrate this conversation to e-mails ).

 

Thanks for the vids... check your PM too.

 

So what exactly does the Stage I kit include/involve? Same question for the Stage II. Have you figured any pricing figures yet?

Matt

 

I think they re-tuned the mapping on the ecu, and also installed a pulley on the S/C. Though I really am curious as to how much more Psi the pulley produces over stock pulley, I'm guessing it might be around 16-18 psi, over the 14 psi stock?

 

$3,400 STAGE I.
- SI Power Package Overboost Pulleys (3)
- Intake Y-Splitter Upgrade + Enlarged Piping & Clamps
- Stage I ECU Software
(torque curve shift / increased throttle response / A-F retune / V-max removed / 5,000 rpm+ dynamometer fix standard / software suits pulleys)

...further upgrade options available upon request.

 

Nice gains on the car.

Not to bust your chops but instead of $3,400 why not go this route:

ASP Pulleys (3) ~ $970 shipped
SL55 y-splitter - 10 minutes of work + $80
SI ECU - $1,000 (from memory)

Total: $2,050

Install of pulley's ~ $200

Take the savings and put it towards a set of cams.


Also the comment about wanting a stiffer suspension or larger stiffer roll bars only apply to handling, not straight line acceleration. The stiffer suspension will inhibit weight transfer to the rear.

 

To each his own. Hernan's definitely going to be tracking the car too though - so adjustable dampening is a must.

 

I don't think there will be any gains made by upgrading the srt6 cams. They are designed for boost, so you can open the intake valve as much as you like but it will most likely give you the same power as stock boost cams. Since everything is under pressure there really is nothing to improve on an already optimized cam, but you could play with pistons. lower that compression a tad more maybe.

 

Or, you could install the Schrick Cams and a thicker head gasket... BINGO !

 

Yep... getting coilovers next saturday...

Once I'm happy with the traction, I'll hit Irwindale... put some of the doubts at MBWORLD to rest. :-)

 

I'm not sure a thicker gasket would be worth the effort after you pull the heads. You might as well drop in low compression slugs in the block, that is if you calculate all that time you will spend tearing apart and re-installing the heads and accessories on zee motor take that sucker down to 8.5:1.

I'm not an engine builder, but I'm pretty sure they try to steer away from thicker gaskets if possible, due to pressures and movement. When you say a thicker gasket, how much more thicker can you get them?

Anyways, how will schrick's cams help the AMG motor breath better under pressure??? They might make more power on a N/A engine but not a boosted motor. Do they have specs listed on the AMG cams vs their cams?