anychance you srt6 guys can use an air to ar intercooler, instead of the liquid to air system?

 

I had the problem since I first got it. I bought it when it had 4k on it.

 

Hi all,
I am just noticing this issue at around 3,000 miles. When i first purchased the car, i never had any issues with acceleration. I only experience my acceleration issues at highway speeds... pretty lightning quick at stop lights. I have a service scheduled for Friday of next week, so hopefully this will get fixed.
Will keep you all posted! And thanks for everyone's input, really makes things easier when we can help point the technicians (that don't know anything about this car) in the right direction!

 

Just got my car back on Friday 8/4 (one day in the shop). They replaced the secondary intercooler. Big difference in boost! (now I have it).

I took a print out of this thread to my service guy.

I had approx 8,000+- mi when the symptoms started.

I recommend talking to Mike Shane in service at Buerge (Ber-ghee) 5* Chrysler in
West Los Angeles, CA 310-820-2631. Tell him Laura with the Black SRT sent you.

 

Here's a thread you fellows might find handy, some of us are into performance, and not just paint jobs.
We also are not all interested in spending all of or money on the more expensive Mercedes logo'ed product when there is something that does the exact same job for less...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...placement.html

A note of interest, perhaps... There have been a number of intercooler failures reported on the C 32's (not many) but only two (possibly three) on the SLK board. I don't know why that is but so be it. The two big failures were reported in Canada, in the Winter. It was thought that the extreme temperature change from below zero to operating range in a very rapid manor may have been partly to blame for the intercooler failures.
It may be worth your while to warm up these cars slowly rather then get in and firewall the throttle right off the bat... I know I take it real easy until my car is up to the minimum operating temperature...

 

Hi All,

Just wanted to update everyone. My dealership ended up having to replace the aux. pump and the sensor. I had printed out this discussion, and they took it's advice - it totally fixed the problem!

Thanks all!

 

When you were having the problem with your s/c, did your car happen to have a rattling sound in the engine compartment when driving and you come to a complete stop?

Took my car to Buerge today for Sched A maintenance and told them about the noise that started happening just a couple of days ago and it turned out that there's a problem with the clutch on the s/c.

Unfortunately, they just can't replace that part, they need to replace the whole s/c assembly ($6K) which they need to special order. Could take two to three weeks or longer.

It sucks that I paid $300 for a tune-up and I can't even drive the car till I get the s/c fixed. Oh well. On the bright side, i do get to have a new s/c, hopefully sometime this year. :-) I just wonder how long the replacement will last...

 

Sorry about throwing the last few kicks in the already dead and decaying horse, but i just have to vent about this one.

I just brought my srt in and told them about the sluggish acceleration and a rattling when slowing to a stop. I also told them that the fan engages frivolously and the cars temp seems to flux quite a bit.

It was raining when i brought the car in so i obviously switched over to winter mode. When i dropped it off i explained to the service mgr that alot of the guys/gals on the forum have had the same problems and that many have done research on this problem and blah blah blah. I asked him to have the mechanic check the s/c clutch and the intercooler pump. They had my car for about a day and a half and call up saying that its all ready and that they just had to replace the fan module and that it was probably just sending the computer the wrong messages. I looked at my car and noticed they only put 4 miles on it. How the hell could they expect to recreate my problem without even getting the engine up to temp. Anyway the problem is still happening and the service guy had the audacity to tell me that the reason i wasn't getting power was because i had it on winter mode. Haha i told him i wasn't a DC mechanic but I wasn't an idiot either. For crying out loud!!! 1 if M/B would only do warranty work we could have someone who knows what they are talking about work on our cars.

 

Sounds like we both have the same problem... I'll let you know how mine goes if you're dealer hasn't figured it out by then.

I suggest going to another dealership to get it fixed and ask specifically for someone that has crossfire training.

I've been going to a place that has only 1 guy that's been trained and he seems to know what he's talking about.

 

Yea sounds good brother. I'll let you know what happens.

 

It's imperative to find a tech that has been trained in the Crossfire. When going to a dealer, especially for warranty work, make sure that you see the techs' graduation diploma for Crossfire training... Then let them work on your ride. Some of them have been sleeping in class... Find a good one if you don't get a resolve. The aux. water pump on page 1 usually fixes this problem... But, if they can't fix it after 2 tries, go to another dealer, they are just guessing.

 

You can add me to the list of those with this problem. Tech said temperature sensor has error codes and will be replacing that first to see if the problem gets fixed. Its a special order part (isn't everything on this vehicle?). I sent this thread to the service manager and got the company line that they can't just be throwing parts at a problem, leaving it up to the tech to determine what needs to be replaced. Keep you posted.

BTW: seems like a number of us are having this issue. At what point does DC write a Service Bulletin? Do they track the number of common issues or do we need to notify someone there of this issue (and if so , who?).

 

Here is my reply at the end of the thread that you might find helpful.

Almost always, an acceleration issue with the SRT6 is related to the supercharger coolant pump. The techs almost always replace the temp sensor first because of the air temp codes. But the air temp codes are set, because the coolant pump fails and the air temp goes up. While its under warranty, you might as well have the dealer replace the pump. But here is my little fix to the problem that is cheap and works extremely well. I made my own supercharger radiator spray kit that not only helps the performance of the vehicle, but will lead to longer supercharger and coolant pump life. First add a bottle of redline coolant additive to the coolant reservoir, to make sure the coolant has the best heat dissipation properties (drain some coolant if necessary). I mounted 2 nozzles in front of the supercharger radiator about 5 inches apart, at approximately the center. I used a universal washer fluid pump and some rubber tubing. The pump kicks on, with a boost activated switch, and sprays a water/rubbing alcohol mist on the front surface of the radiator any time it sees boost. I used a 8 inch SPAL electric fan to help pull the mist into the fins at slower speeds. I mounted a manual switch inside to kick on the sprayer, while sitting still, for street and drag runs (you can cool the supercharger coolant/intake temp, for a much better launch) The tank, which is just a washer fluid universal tank, can be mounted anywhere, but I chose behind the passenger seat, on the floor, to keep it cooler and keep the electric pump out of the weather. This sprayer mod, is nothing new, and several companies make them for turbo air to air intercooler, I may just be the first one to try it on a air to water setup. The result, the supercharger coolant temperature, dropped from 220 + degrees, down to 110, which although I haven't measured it yet, I am sure greatly reduces the air intake temps. Since high coolant temps is what is killing the coolant pump, with this mod, my pump will probably last for ever now. The water/alcohol tank has to be filled every 2 - 4 weeks, depending on how heavy your foot is, but is a cheap commodity. For you drag race nuts, I will be doing testing at the strip, with and without the sprayer to see if there are any performance gains.

 

Joe (ScreaminJoe)

Post up some pics of your sprayer set when you get a chance... I've been driving the wife's SRT-6 more lately and it is beginning to get sluggish off the line and from slow speeds... Geez, I wonder what it might be??? Duhhh...!

 

I will get some photos soon. I am still testing the temp deltas and I want to test the 1/4 mile times with and without the sprayer to see the gain, in any, but the root cause of the problem is not the pump, its the supercharger cooling system's inadequacy to properly keep coolant temps down under hot and humid conditions and under boost.

 

Also Cudaman, not to insult your intelligence, but I have seen a few new SRT6 owners, forget or bump the shifter switch to the W, instead of the S. Which, in case you don't already know, the W is the winter selection for the transmission and the car starts out in 2nd gear.

 

No such sound for me. Sucks about waiting for your car. I can sympathize. My limited sat in the service dept. 45 days waiting for an ignition assembly.

 

even if the car is in "W" if you hammer on the gas it will kick to first gear.

 

Ya ScreaminJoe, I know "W" will start it out in 2nd... I done gradiated da 8th grade... twice!

 

Any luck on your car?

Got mine back today with a brand spanking new s/c. No more noise, period! Even the loud noise that I use to hear when the car is idling is gone.

Problem with mine was a bad bearing in the s/c clutch.

I'm back to liking this car again... :-)