So it is happening ......... my convertible hydraulic system is L E A K I N G. The solution I am finding is through a company called "Top Hydraulics" https://www.tophydraulics.com/

Replacing the complete system, including the pump, will set me back $1,600.00 The how-to videos they provide are most excellent. Their spiel is very good. Would be great to find a coupon!

I have a set of steps to build for my daughter first and then a cruise. When I return, I will tackle the removal and send the old parts off to avoid the core charge.

Any suggestions from those of you that have replaced this system yourself would be greatly appreciated.

 

I did all the cylinders on my limited roadster about a year ago, nothing technically difficult but pretty tight quarters on some of the work. I’m an old guy on blood thinners so my hands were pretty bruised up when done. The videos are very helpful.

 

Thanks Jeff for the vote of confidence. Us "old" guys have to stick together (69 in April).

 

You should not have to do the pump, unless you want to. Be sure to identify the hydraulic lines so they go back in the same position.

 

You may be correct about the pump. No issue there as yet, but the pistons are all starting to have issues. I thought the pump might be on the same time?

 

Rarely do the pumps fail but if you want to do everything at once, go for it.

 

I"ve owned three roadsters, one went to 100,000 miles. So far, never even so much as added fluid to the tank. If the top opertes fine but there are leaks, just do the cylinders.

WATCH IT with the sensors on the cylinders. When you put the car back together, the top will not work. PERIOD.
The issue will be how you have one or more cylinder sensors seated. I've seen it three times now - it's tricky to get them to seat but you CAN do it.

May I ask: Miles? Is it stored in winter? How often do you exercise the top?

I can't understand why some people have so much trouble and many of us NEVER have an issue with the top system. I have noticed that people who store their cars in winter have more issues - that's why I exercise my top every three weeks, year around.

 

So if I would keep the old pump I should probably drain out all of the old fluid .......?

 

My 05 x fire pump was already leaking behind the left rear wheel from the time I bought my car last year at 104k miles. Top Hydraulics is a great company. See my thread from last month under x fire convertibles. I am not saying you need to rebuild the pump right now but if you just do the cylinders now, you will be happy with Top Hydraulics work and will know they are there when the pump goes out some day.

 

I do have the car in a conditioned space year round. I live in Cincinnati, Ohio and will not let him experience salt. He is not let out much in the winter and I guess I am bad about exercising his top (that will change). With about 61,000 miles he is in "top" shape (well the hydraulics will be too after lol).
I do not want to have any issues with this after; so the pump will be replaced this go round. Thank you for the "sensor" warning. I will pay close attention.
Thank you all for your feed back........ This site is awesome!

 

Since you are getting into it this deep, yes, I would.

 

Do all of the cylinders as per Klaus's video series. Take your time. Check your connections. You will be glad you did the job. Best money I have spent on my 2005!

John

 

Off topic kind of but does the hydraulic fluid ever need replacing? (if it goes down that would indicate a leak but is it something that should be replaced in certain intervals?)

 

The hydraulics have been replaced, and after some fussing with reprogramming (thank you forum) it works perfectly. The video at top hydraulics is fantastic. I sent in my cylinders first to save on the core charges. I did mess up on sensor locations, but was able to troubleshoot my way through the problem via top hydraulics install videos.
Now, if the rain would just stop.

 

It pays to mark them before removal.

 

This is not a bad question. I have not done mine yet, but I am going to drain it (with a pump) and replace what I can. I suspect I can get maybe 80% of it. Might follow up with a second pumpout/refill after a few top cycles.

Excellent question, one not often asked.

 

I never hear any talk about it but it would seem even hydraulic fluid needs to be replaced at some point. What fluid is required by factory standards?

The second pump out...how does it work? Do you suck all fluid out first time THEN cycle the top a few times and whatever is left over then you suck out and replace with new fluid at that time?

 

Pentosin CHF 11S

 

No. You can't cycle the top with the tank low or empty.

You suck out all the fluid you can from the tank, then refill it.
Cycle the top a few times.
Then suck out the tank a second time and refill it.

That's about the best you can do. You will get 90% or more between the two evacuations. You can't get 100% because there is always a small amount in the lines.

 

I got my 2005 xfire with 50k miles a couple years ago and the top did not work. The prior owner said the seals were leaking and he did not want to fix them. He was right, the top does not work but there is no leaking, presumably because there is not enough fluid left to leak. In any case, I did not have time to deal fix it but I did research the issue here in the forum and watched the Top Hydraulics videos. I still need to convince myself the prior owner was correct about the issue being leaky seals but it seems likely he was right and I will have to replace all the cylinders. Can you tell me how much time you spent doing yours? That might help me decide when to take it on. Thanks!