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I have the oft described won't start, spoiler up, spoiler switch blinking but some other weird stuff. The couple of times it did start after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it wouldn't shift out of park tho it did just once and I used the opportunity to move it out of the way of the garage door so I could use my other crossfire. The brake pedal is at the top and solidly stiff with no play at all. The battery is an AGM (installed 7/2021) and reads above 12V, but I have now charged it twice to full as it was below 100% (~87%). When running the volt meter says 14.2 V, so the alternator should be good tho AGM is "like" a deep cycle, maybe explaining the drop to 87% charge. The BAS/ESP light is on, and for a while the worn brake pad light was on even though I had new rotors and ceramic pads installed a few months ago. I recently installed a new audio receiver, the day before this started. Is there anything in the dash behind the radio or below it that could cause this? There doesn't seem to be any water intrusion in the trunk or under the floor mats. I Just resoldered the RCM. No effect. I have ordered an INNOVA 5610 PRO to hopefully see if there are any codes (if it will read them). Seems to be a good bi-directional code scanner. Should be here by the end of May. I could take it to Autozone to read the codes if it starts, but am afraid it might get stuck there. I have fixed the spoiler up, won't start, blinking switch before with the battery disconnect and reconnect, but not now. Any thoughts?
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 05-26-2022 at 07:04 PM.
I have the oft described won't start, spoiler up, spoiler switch blinking but some other weird stuff. The couple of times it did start after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it wouldn't shift out of park tho it did just once and I used the opportunity to move it out of the way of the garage door so I could use my other crossfire. The brake pedal is at the top and solidly stiff with no play at all. The battery is an AGM (installed 7/2021) and reads above 12V, but I have now charged it twice to full as it was below 100% (~87%). When running the volt meter says 14.2 V, so the alternator should be good tho AGM is "like" a deep cycle, maybe explaining the drop to 87% charge. The BAS/ESP light is on, and for a while the worn brake pad light was on even though I had new rotors and ceramic pads installed a few months ago. I recently installed a new audio receiver, the day before this started. Is there anything in the dash behind the radio or below it that could cause this? There doesn't seem to be any water intrusion in the trunk or under the floor mats. I Just resoldered the RCM. No effect. I have ordered an INNOVA 5610 PRO to hopefully see if there are any codes (if it will read them). Seems to be a good bi-directional code scanner. Should be here by the end of May. I could take it to Autozone to read the codes if it starts, but am afraid it might get stuck there. I have fixed the spoiler up, won't start, blinking switch before with the battery disconnect and reconnect, but not now. Any thoughts?
What was involved in fitting the radio? Was it just the fitting of a conversion plug and socket from the Infinity to your new radio?
No, just a quick swap out of one JVC to a newer one with same wiring harness. Pretty much plug and play.
Strangely everything started working normally all of a sudden, for one drive trip. While everything worked for a short while I'm right back where I started. The car is dead again with the same symptoms as above. As soon as I turned the key on the spoiler went up. Battery is at 12.1V. I'm thinking it may be the battery, but a 10 month old good quality AGM battery? The battery was one month old when I bought the car 3 states away, purchased by the previous owner, and had it shipped here so I don't think the battery warranty is in play. Autozone tested the battery a couple of months ago after charging it and said it was good but I wonder. Ideas?
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 05-27-2022 at 01:00 AM.
I'm going to suggest you check the POS and NEG cables (fuse's side and ground side as well). Before you check/clean them, start with the NEG (or the siren will remind you that the NEG should have been taken off first). IF you have any oxidation/corrosion on any point, clean or maybe replace depending on what is found. This should be done before you try tracking down anything else, so you have clean power to the car. After that, might have to do the parasitic drain (.pdf listed here in the forum, as suggested by another member @ the battery standing voltage). Good luck!
I will look at the cables. My Schumacher SC1281 charger is also a desulfator. I just put in a new battery which has only a 45% charge at 12.3V so am charging it as I write this. Once charged I may have to disconnect the neg cable and reconnect to reset things. We'll see. If it doesn't work I just wasted $200 on a new battery. Murphy's Law/Luck o' the Irish.
3) There are several RCM failure modes. Solder is only one. The relays can be intermittent. Consider buying a new one and sending yours off to be reworked by DJ -we all need a spare!
Yes, my Schumacher SC1281 charger shows both the battery voltage and the percent of battery charge, alternating the display between the two as it charges the battery. The AGM I replaced never got above 87% on it's own. I assume that while not a "true" deep cycle I've read that they are "sorta like" a deep cycle, so may not fully charge to 100% while driving.
After replacing and charging the battery the '06 roadster still wouldn't start. I figured I just wasted $200. I ran a couple of errands in my '07 coupe and came home to eat a couple of hot dogs. Went outside and whadoyano, the '06 roadster started. Most dash lights went out except for brake wear and BAS/ESP. After a minute or so those lights also went out. The brake pedal was back to normal. However, the spoiler switch continued to blink and would not operate the spoiler. I took it for a ride around the block and parked again in my drive way. I was afraid to turn the car off but did so anyway. I figured it wouldn't start again, but voila...it did. This time the spoiler light was off and I lowered the spoiler. I went for another short drive, parked in the drive way and shut the car off. shjt howdy it started again. I shut it off and will see tomorrow if it starts ok. It's almost like after replacing the battery it took the car a while to figure out it had a new one. Silly, but that's how it seems. In any event I'll check all of the grounds and the main engine ground under the car. Corrosion seems to be a common problem there. If so I'll just replace it with a new one. They're just a few bucks. There's a good Youtube tutorial on how to replace the engine ground cable here during the last half of a great short XF electrical video:
UPDATE: Just went out again a few hours later with that dread feeling in the pit of my stomach. Happy to report that it started right up, and did so the next few times in a row. Got my fingers crossed and guardedly optimistic because...once bit, twice shy. When I go to the store and shut it off I'm gonna have that dread feeling...at least for a while. Thanks for the support guys, and I'll do that ground mod for the battery terminal cable.
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 05-27-2022 at 11:10 PM.
I'll check all of the grounds and the main engine ground under the car. Corrosion seems to be a common problem there. If so I'll just replace it with a new one. They're just a few bucks.
I gave you the link to the thread on how to permanently (and properly) fix that. You put the ground in that James (or I) did. The strap from block to chassis has to be the most mentally-vapid thing they did to our cars.
That strap does not belong there, the added ground cable does.
While it appears a new battery fixed it - which is no surprise - give it a few days. Sounds like you already know you fixed it, but again, the issues with the RCM can come and go. (As can so many other electrical issues, really.)
He is getting it from his charger, my charger gives the voltage it is at and the % of charge. I can choose which one I want to see.
And that is my point. I have an issue with that.
If the charger is measuring charge current accurately, and if somehow it magically knows how well the battery is charged in the first place, then OK, the charger's display is marginally accurate.
But if all it's doing it measuring terminal voltage, or EVEN if it is measuring terminal voltage AND charge current, then the reading is misleading. In such cases, the display is really "% of charge the battery is capable of at it's current age". My point: If the battery is in new condition, then you have 87% of rated charge. If the battery has degraded, then you have 87% of the charge is it CAPABLE of. SO it's 87% of a number less than rated capacity. And I dont give a damn what the owner's manual (written by the marketing department*) claims.
I know how batteries work and I know how so called "battery analyzers" work - and they don't display as much as they claim. Even our $600 "intelligent" chargers at work are not capable of all that great accuracy, it is the technician's job to interpret the display. No experienced tech actually takes the numbers at face value. See why my batteries (in the bike, car and truck) get replaced at 48 months?
*When I was with corporate, I was disgusted to learn that marketing took engineering's manuals and revised them before distribution to the customer.
Thanks for your reply. I hope I didn't make you angry. As a retired government electronics engineer I know a little bit about how these things work, but these day I try to do research online a lot. The following is from aa1car.com's library:
"A smart charger typically has three charging stages. The first is the "bulk" stage that applies maximum voltage (14.4 to 14.7 volts for a 12V car battery) and maximum amperage to quickly bring the battery up to 80 percent of its capacity. This is followed by the "absorption" stage where the charging amperage is cut back while the output voltage remains constant. This stage takes longer because of increased resistance inside the battery as it comes up to full charge. Once the battery reaches about 90 to 95 percent of full charge, the charger goes into a "float" stage and maintains a steady charging voltage at minimal current. Some chargers will also automatically turn themselves off once full charge is achieved."
My charger is a "smart charger" if it makes a difference. My new battery reads about 12.8-13V. Battery charge percentage info is available on many professional sites. To learn more just Google "car battery charge percentage". There are charts listed, and more of them under the Images tab. The following chart is from batteryglobe.com:
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 05-28-2022 at 12:43 AM.
I only get made when someone takes a Crossfire to a Chrysler dealer - see my sigline!
But my point is, the readings assume a new battery in factory condition.
The ONLY way to measure a battery's capacity is to do a measured draw test -that is, charge the battery to all it will take.
Now, place a calibrated load on it and take it down to it's rated "safe discharge voltage". During this time you are measuring current flow, when terminal voltage drops to the specified value, you stop draining it and do the math - for how long did I get how much current? That tells me what the ACTUAL capacity is. Of course, at this time, you charge the battery back up.
My point: NONE of these products do this. In fact, it is impractical given the capacity of the battery AND the fact that storage batteries perform differently when asked to deliver, say 30 amps during a test like this and 300 amps during starting.
Are such battery tests useless? No. My point is that such tests are tenuous at best; and that a battery can be inadequate to make the Crossfire's electrical system happy and yet, it may pass such tests. THIS is the heart of the matter: After 12 years here, I am sick of watching people post "The battery tests fine, it's something else". THEN, a month later, after spending $1000 on all sorts of parts and labor, they finally change the battery and all is well. THAT is what I am driving at. Every veteran member here has seen this time and again and we are sick of watching newcomers waste time and money when we've seen it all dozens of times before.
Once more:
My point is that such displays are helpful, but they provide tenuous information at best.
I only get made when someone takes a Crossfire to a Chrysler dealer - see my sigline!
But my point is, the readings assume a new battery in factory condition.
The ONLY way to measure a battery's capacity is to do a measured draw test -that is, charge the battery to all it will take.
Now, place a calibrated load on it and take it down to it's rated "safe discharge voltage". During this time you are measuring current flow, when terminal voltage drops to the specified value, you stop draining it and do the math - for how long did I get how much current? That tells me what the ACTUAL capacity is. Of course, at this time, you charge the battery back up.
My point: NONE of these products do this. In fact, it is impractical given the capacity of the battery AND the fact that storage batteries perform differently when asked to deliver, say 30 amps during a test like this and 300 amps during starting.
Are such battery tests useless? No. My point is that such tests are tenuous at best; and that a battery can be inadequate to make the Crossfire's electrical system happy and yet, it may pass such tests. THIS is the heart of the matter: After 12 years here, I am sick of watching people post "The battery tests fine, it's something else". THEN, a month later, after spending $1000 on all sorts of parts and labor, they finally change the battery and all is well. THAT is what I am driving at. Every veteran member here has seen this time and again and we are sick of watching newcomers waste time and money when we've seen it all dozens of times before.
Once more:
My point is that such displays are helpful, but they provide tenuous information at best.
Glad you found the problem with the battery. If you still encounter issues, you could swap RCMs between the 06 and 07 and see what happens. I am still running on original RCM but have a backup just in case. Failed RCM is a recurring topic here.
My first XF was in 2005. I now have three. '05 and '06 roadsters and an '07 coupe. I purchased the '06 last summer and had it shipped here after paying for a Lemon Squad inspection that turned out to be gundecked (navy term = "faked" by the inspector) and was given an unheard of refund by the company. It had a myriad of problems/issues all of which I fixed. I apologize if I made anyone "sick" with my inquiry.
ADDRESSING PERCENTAGE OF CHARGE AS DETERMINED BY THE SMART CHARGER, and knowledge of very basic electrical theory (and why I don't really need the lecture but am happy to listen):
I think the point I was trying to make is the industry's standard for considering percentage of charge IN GENERAL, not calculating current drain for a particular battery. BTW, as you know current draw is determined by the voltage levels on a given load (according to Mr. Ohm). Voltage level being the determining factor as long as the load stays constant. The standard needed to then be determined by voltage level. There needed to be a standard baseline for all. Since not all batteries are the same there needed to be a standard so that percent of charge could be expressed no matter the battery, with variations for battery type (lead-acid, AGM, etc). It is then determined by the level of voltage measured since that determines the current. Looking at dozens of graphs on industry/professional sites before posting one showed that to be the case. The graph I posted should have explained that easily. Anyway, a baseline of ~10.5V is considered zero charge. Depending on battery type ~12.7-14.4V is considered ~100%, and a smart charger calculates that according to battery type and voltage level. It is ~10.5V, not when a battery is zero volts, that the percent of car battery charge is considered zero. This being the standard for measuring percentage of charge in the industry means a smart charger can display percent of charge within that ~10.5V on up range, again as an industry standard. It helps to understand this beforehand when reading percent of charge on the smart charger. A graph helps, and one also came with my charger. I'm lucky to have one that displays both voltage and percentage.
To those who helped and advised I appreciate you and your advice, and always learn from you and take on board what you say for future reference. This event had a peculiar mix of symptoms, such as the break pedal being completely stiff with no play and stuck at the top and the brake wear light being on, and is why I was stymied and asked for advice here before just throwing money at it. My 'O6 roadster is still functioning properly today, a day later, so the 10 month old AGM battery seems to have been the issue. I've installed a new Duralast Gold (730 CCA) with 3 year warranty ($200), size H6 from Autozone. I will do the mod Pizzaguy insisted on, as well as replacing the strap underneath. Neither is difficult and just adds a little redundant "insurance" (maybe my military influence?). I found new aftermarket RCM's a few years ago on Amazon and Ebay and will invest in a backup. Now on Amazon for $150, on Ebay from $175 on up into the $200's (didn't find used ones on Ebay as of today).
UPDATE: Symptoms returned. An advantage to having more than one XF is the ability to swap items. It took 5 minutes to swap the RCM from the '07 coupe to the disabled '06. It started immediately and all symptoms gone. Put the "bad" one in the '07 and the symptoms moved there. Seems it wasn't the battery after all but the RCM. My first bad RCM in 4 XFs. Interesting to see the symptoms it caused. Good thing I ordered a new one earlier from Amazon to be delivered day after next ($150). I still consider the new battery a good investment since the AGM wouldn't get above 87% (~12.4-12.5V) charge with the car's charging system.
UPDATE: The long crank before finally starting issue came back and was diagnosed as a faulty check valve in the fuel pump which had been replaced just 7 months ago, and allowed the pressure in the fuel rail to drop to 15 as soon as the engine shut down, meaning not enough pressure to the injectors at startup. The Delphi pump is being replaced under warranty.
The individual relays, such as American Zettler AZ970E (open version, not sealed), can also be purchased if anyone wants to get their solder on, but a new $150 RCM would be ~the same cost as replacing all relays unless buying them in large bulk. Further research and following up on this may mean being able to identify a bad relay and replacing just it, repairing the RCM yourself for the cost of a relay instead of all 5, sending it in for repair, or an entire new RCM.
Thank you Pizzaguy and Wadsworth for the RCM advice.
Done editing...LOL
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 06-10-2022 at 06:58 PM.
Glad you found the problem with the battery. If you still encounter issues, you could swap RCMs between the 06 and 07 and see what happens. I am still running on original RCM but have a backup just in case. Failed RCM is a recurring topic here.
An advantage to having more than one XF is the ability to swap items. It took 5 minutes to swap the RCM from '07 coupe to the disabled '06. It started immediately and all symptoms gone. Seems it wasn't the battery after all but the RCM. Thank you Wadsworth for the advice.
Last edited by WarrantCWO; 05-28-2022 at 09:57 PM.
I can refurbish your RCM(s) by replacing the relays, redoing bad solder joints AND adding the Me So Horny mod. $50
Hundreds of satisfied Crossfire owners! Email tighed1@hotmail.com for details.
Strange combo of symptoms
I'm going to suggest you check the POS and NEG cables (fuse's side and ground side as well). Before you check/clean them, start with the NEG (or the siren will remind you that the NEG should have been taken off first). IF you have any oxidation/corrosion on any point, clean or maybe replace depending on what is found. This should be done before you try tracking down anything else, so you have clean power to the car. After that, might have to do the parasitic drain (.pdf listed here in the forum, as suggested by another member @ the battery standing voltage). Good luck! 
