I have a 2004 black convertible auto and I absolutely love it. BUT about 2 years ago it mysteriously refused to start a few times. After waiting a short while, it would then start as if nothing had happened. I then got an engine block yellow light which went off after a short time. Last month it refused on me, but this time, nothing would make it start and the engine block light stayed on so it was recovered to my local dealer who has basically groped in the dark first refitting the fan module (£700) and when I went to pick up the car the block light was still on (he told me it was because I didn't have enough petrol???) I drover down the road and put petrol in it and then a coolant light appeared. I drove straight back to the dealer who said it was the coolant sensor. I said to replace that sensor, I went to collect my car and was told that in fact the new fan module that they had put in was faulty and that they would have to replace it.

BUT today he called to say that in fact the fault lies with the auxiliary air pump and it is going to cost over £1000.

This car has barely 40k on the clock and it looks new. I have already had the tail fin unit totally replaced by this garage when it had a fault earlier this year - is this guy just ripping me off????

Help please, I just don't know what to do now.

 

It might be the bad solder on the Relay Control Module. It is a very common problem, and easy to fix. Here's a link:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

Treat this like you would yourself and get a second opinion. Sounds like you're paying for their guessing.

 

They sound dishonest to me. Post where you are located and perhaps another Forum member, in your area, can recommend someone more honest.

 

If the low coolant light went off it's probably either the fan module or the fan itself. I had the same problem on my car. As for it refusing to start sounds like the crank position sensor. By the way, the fan module was a recall item here in the states. It's possible you shouldn't have been charged at all for that repair. You need to check that out.

 

I have a 2005 Roadster, purchased new, with 35,327 miles on the odometer.
It has cost me more than $5,775.00 in non-warrantee repairs, 16 cents per mile.

 

Original battery?

 

MMM my experieince has been different 2007 roadster in 1-1/2 years has needed $80 oil change is boringly reliable next to Mondial 8 that needs $1500-2000 each year.
But i do do all my own work

 

This is what I would do:
Ok, first, if it has the original white "VARTA" battery, go get a new battery.

Next, I'd change the Crank Position Sensor (available after market for about $50 US, just be sure to get a BOSCH part - they are avalible from various sources in the USA, not sure over there.)

Next, get some local radio shop to resolder all the connections on the Relay Control Board.


Those are the easy, cheap and quite common items and will solve most complaints of stalling or not starting.

As to fixing the RCB or finding a Bosch CPS, I like the advice already given, find someone else on the forum here who is close to you and, maybe, a bit mechanical who can help. We have printable instructions on the forum that can tell you/your helper how to perform these tasks.

Hope this helps.

 

And you have been a member this long and have not asked for help... why?

MANY of the problems these cars have can be fixed for next to NOTHING by referring to the threads here. Like the "sticky ignition key" that costs $600 to $1500 at a dealer - with our tutorial, any mechanic can fix it in 90 minutes (probably charge you $150 or so.)

We've had convertible tops that would not work right that we got fixed in a week or so, by talking the owner thru some basic tasks - usually get them going for nothing or the cost of a switch or sensor - instead of the damn dealer's guessing and poking which can run into money in no time.

 

You should have read the reviews first..

Based on the 308 chassis, this large and relatively heavy 2+2 coupe had a mere 214 hp on tap from its transversely mounted, mid-engine V8, and its transistor-based electronics had more bugs than a Barstow motel rollaway. Eventually, every single system would fail, not infrequently accompanied by the smell of burning wires.

 

I think this Lynda has committed suicide, she's only made one post. She uses the £ sign so she is probably UK based. Maybe UK Ken can arrange the floral arrangement.

We obviously need a suicide intervention forum.

RIP Lynda, help was so close.

 

I am unfortunately a victim of my abundant limitations.
Of the many areas of expertise I sorely lack in is mechanical aptitude.
I would have difficulty in determining the cause of a problem. If I won’t
start I get it towed off to the dealer. Were I to ask for assistance most
likely would not understand them.

 

We usually suggest you see a local shop that does Mercedes. In fact, that's what I do.

But for a CPS or sticky ignition key and a lot of other items - you can just print our tutorials and let the guy, any shadetree mechanic, follow them.
Saves tons of money. The BIG problem with cars today is electronic diagnostics. No one teaches how to trouble shoot electronics in cars (or in general).
When you add the fact that these cars are Mercedes and you are taking them to a Chrysler dealer - horror results.

I wish we could get the message out to NOT take these to Chrysler dealers... there are MANY better options.