I agree that there are quite a few synthetic alternatives out there which we can use rather than Mobil 1. In fact, as stated earlier in this thread, we've hashed this quite a few times already and I personally have posted documents similar to those in Bladecutter's post that list all the oils approved that are typically marketed & distributed in the US.

What is interesting is that nearly all of the 5w30 synthetics approved for M-B 229.5 & 229.51, which are listed as alternatives to Mobil 1 European 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w40, are shown not approved for an AMG engine! The viscosity of these oils at 100 deg C is well below that of the Mobil 1 products and M-B warns to stay clear of them for these high performance versions of the motors. So, according to the info posted elsewhere in the Forum, using something other than Mobil 1 in an SRT-6 might be a risk an owner has to decide to take. For us with NA models, not really an issue. The products from Pennzoil, Shell, Quaker State, Castrol, etc., all are approved.

It is worth noting that the synthetics listed as approved alternatives (typically 5w40 grade) to Mobil 1 European 0w40 for M-B 229.3 all seem to have viscosities at 100 deg C that exceed the specs of their comparable products (5w30 grade) shown as approved for M-B 229.5 & 229.51. Why aren't these listed under M-B 229.5 & 229.51? The only difference I see is that the 229.3 oil (& 229.5) is approved for use with the FSS (Flexible Service System) that's on our XFires and the 229.5 & 229.51 oil is shown as compatible with M-B's MMS (Mercedes Maintenance System) which is on other vehicles. Not sure what the differences in the 2 systems are that led M-B to this position. Does anyone know anything further about this? Curious minds want to know.

But for me, at nearly every self-serve auto parts house near me, Mobil 1 will be less cost than the other brands, day in & day out. And I'm old enough to remember when this wasn't the case!!!! But as cajunfire started with this thread, there are sales every once in awhile that are worth passing along. Thanks for the tip.

FWIW - The last time I looked into it, ExxonMobil had the contract with Walmart to supply the automotive motor oils. So Walmart's synthetic is some derivative of Mobil 1. I use the Walmart brand in some of my other vehicles and it's always less cost than anyone's brand name synthetic.

 

It would be interesting to know what is the difference between walmarts synthetic oil & mobil 1. I wouldn't be surprised if it is manufactured by exxon, that is the same product with a different label on it like most products that share mfg. facilities.

 

Wal-Mart Super Tech is manufactured by Specialty Oil Co., Houston. The MSDS is attached. Also included the MSDS for Mobile 1.

 

after a search on the internet, Quaker State makes the wal mart synthetic and conventional oils for wallyworld. Who knows if its the same additives as the quaker St synthetic....I'll stick with the name brands in my cars.

 

~ whatever

My source for the manufacturer was directly from Walmart: http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/347432.pdf And it's not Quaker State.

As you said, stay with name brands. I'm sticking with Mobile 1.

 

You are correct... but specialty oil co is owned by Quaker State. But I'm with you I'd stick with a name brand for my Xfire.

 

Who makes Walmart SuperTech Full Synthetic Oils? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

fyi. quaker state owns rain-x as well

 

I say if it's the right viscosity then who cares what oil you use in your car. It's not going to hurt the car but I'm like Oledoc2u and use the mobil 1 0w-40 since it has done me no wrong either.

 

Have a quick question relative to oil & the changing of!!! Do you all take your crossfires into the dealer for oil changes?? Is this manditory, or are the commercial places able to handle??

 

Do it yourself! It's not hard and it'll save you money and ensure that nobody messes up your car.

It's not harder than any other car, and I don't know why people act like it's a huge deal. As a matter of fact, the convenient filter placement and the fact that it drains down makes it easier and cleaner than a lot of other vehicles, and the side-mounted drain bolt also makes the whole process nice and clean.

 

PERFECT!!!! Thanks I really was getting concerned because the dealer was really making it out so that everything had to come through them & that YES even the oil change was difficult!!!! This is great news & I really enjoy working on any car when possible!!!

 

Here's some oil change threads you may find useful:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-pictures.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...made-easy.html

 

Lots of info and threads on this but I'm trying out this unit. It's one of the top load extractors for changing your oil. There are a bunch of different types out there. This one has enought volume for a number of changes before having to empty it at a recycle facitliy and of the reviews I could find, it seems pretty good. I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer or any facility when ever possible (It's there now for the transmission connector / valve body fix - which they screwed up on the first try) so my goal is saving time, money on the changes and eliminating chances of screw-ups at the dealer -- which is my primary reason for purchasing this.

Many say the conventional way is easy as well but I've done enough changes over the years to know that if it can be done effectively like this, then this would be my preferred method.

Good luck.

BTW - this is an HT Moto Smart Tool Oil Extractor 3.9 Gallon I found it on line for $90 (plus shipping). I found it for various prices and various shipping rates. This site ended up being the cheapest overall combined price (price plus shipping)
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/images/v...roductId=59270

 

The oil viscosity doesn't matter.
All that matters is that the oil meets MB oil spec 229.3 or 229.5.

This can be the all too familiar Mobil 1 0W-40, or several 5W-40, or even quite a few 5W-30 oils. If you look at the links I provided on the previous page, there are even other oil viscosities that you can choose from, if you can find them.

And there are plenty of oils that meet the viscosity that don't meet the spec.
Royal Purple's 0W-40 and 5W-40 don't meet the spec.
Is that because the oil is worse, or that they didn't send their oil to MB for testing?
I don't know the answer to that.
I think its just that they don't want to pay for actual testing of their oils.

BC.

 

Also, after some additional research, I believe I have figured out the difference between the 229.3 and the 229.5 specs.

The 229.5 spec allows for extremely long oil change intervals (15k+) when used in conjunction with a fleece oil filter, and provides better fuel economy than 229.3 oils.

229.3 oils are good for up to 12k miles, or one year, and offer better engine protection for extreme engine demand situations (racing, towing, etc). That's why 5W-50 is only allowed in the 229.3 spec.

So, if you want better fuel economy, go with 229.5 spec oils.
If you want to race your engine, go with 229.3 oils.
If you want to go with extremely long oil change intervals, go with a fleece oil filter and 229.5 oils.
If you want a wider variety of oils to choose from at your local auto parts store, go with 229.3 oils.

BC.

 

I just got 12 quarts of Mobil1 0w40 at Pep Boys yesterday for $4 each. They only had 2 in stock but let me buy 12 and pick up the others later when it gets in. It was a sale until 11 am yesterday and I got there at 10:55. They also had some Peak full syn w\filter 5 for $17 including a filter with a $5 rebate making it $12 for the deal. That will be ok for my '97 six cylinder truck.

 

Last oil change I used German Castrol 0W-30 which meets both of the above specs and has a loyal following on this oil forum:

FAQ - GC ( German Castrol ) - Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

This thread is going to save me some money.. to hell with this car's stupid, useless, expensive recommendations.

 

Agreed. I change mine in the garage and don't even jack the car up! My drain pan fits under the oil pan just fine, and I can take the underside guard off and put it back on with a small ratchet.

Now that you mention it, the oil filter assembly IS "drip proof" if you give it a few minutes to drain after unscrewing it a few turns.