OK. Just finished with repairing my top carefully using Bob's advice (i.e. prep and prime) and feel confident the fix will last an extended time, maybe forever, even in the Southern heat. The repair feels solid and looks good as new.

BTW. My top had separated at the top of the window. Fixing the top of the window is probably infinitely harder than correcting a separation at the bottom, because the glass needs to be lifted into position, rather than simply supported from below on a couple of towels. If trying to fix the top, consider using a suction cup (borrowed from your GPS mount for instance) to help hoist the glass upward and forward into position. Fashion a handle to the cup (I used a vise grip) and 'jack' the glass up into place using some scrap wood falsework supported by the convertible top frame.

Again, carefully and thoroughly clean the old glass, use the 3M One-Step primer and the Window Weld as instructed by mach2plus Bob.

It does work. There is a fix.

 

Hoping to tackle mine this weekend, just had the Primer and Adhesive delivered, done the main prep work last weekend, so all is a go for this weekend. Glad to hear of your success. Mine should be easier, its my bottom edge and sides that have come loose.

 

I want too check with others as my window seal was also detaching around most of the edge and a small tug would separate it.

It seems there are two edges that are sealed.
1. the 'canvas' edge around the window is 'hemmed' by rolling it around onto the window and this has one adhesive seal.
2. the edge between the seal on the glass and where it rolls back around to the roof.
I think this makes sense as it would transfer some of the tension shear of the roof away from the edge of the seal.

It seems the roof is heat sensitive and shrinks, the hotter it is the tighter it is. Do not do this in the sun.

I completed the reseal this past weekend in two stages. 1st I sealed the edge to the glass and after that set (24 hrs) then from the inside and with the roof partially raised, I added an additional bead between the roof and the seal. I used a popsicle stick to form a bead seat.

NOTE: All caulk guns are not equal and some have different leverage ratios.
The basic cheap gun is only ~8:1 and the caulk is so thick you will have great difficulty extracting it. For about $15-20, you can get better 21:1 from Home Depot and have a much better chance doing this without so much strain.

This stuff sets quite HARD like rubber. I found it best to use masking tape on the glass AND on the roof, and use a goodly amount of caulk so it does squeeze out, then let it set and cut away cleanly after.

Thanks for all guidance, I wish I had a dozen strong magnets I could have used to hold the glass and the roof together. Do your own tests BEFORE applying glue.

EDIT: July 3.
Even though the glass was cleaned and degreased, it was not PRIMED. The glass has detached again. Now I have a harder job removing the set window weld before trying again with primer.

 

Kane, I also repaired my top, basically using (Mach2plus) Bobs advice, and just finished, what I would consider a 95% success, as I would not consider my efforts a professional job, but a pretty good fix, for the price of the Adhesive and Primer, and about 4 hours total time. My thanks go to Forum member "Dtinker" for his assistancs during this process. My glass was loose only at the bottom & sides and was still well stuck along the top edge.
1) picture of the old glue removal using a makeshift homemade tool (The Blade). easy to do, just takes time, about 1 hour. Note the black edge to the glass, a good guide when applying the Primer and Adhesive.
2) Top & Sides in the loose position. After applying approx. 1/4" dia adhesive bead to the glass, using a popsicle stick, I smoothed the outer edge of the adhesive to the edge of the glass, to keep the "squeeze out" on that side to a minimum, as it is a little awkward to clean up the inside.
3) I used Kitchen rolls on the inside of the glass to hold it firm and in position, while WE gently pressed the glass and canvas together using the black edge of the glass as a guide, and gently pressed down to squeeze out the excess adhesive along the full length of the repair, ensuring the "squeeze out" WAS total length of the repair. Then as my car is only used at weekends, left it to cure until the next weekend. I think 24 hours would have done.
4) Trimmed off the excess adhesive, which is pretty easy, as it is a rubbery consistancy, then cleaned the glass. JOB DONE.
I was very suprised how easy it was to do. The only awkward part is applying the adhesive to the window with the gun, (Arms get tired after a while) without getting it on the Canvas Top, that is where the additional help comes in very handy. As this car is for my pleasure, and not intended to be a garage queen, a very practical, and financial success. thanks again Bob & Dave Tinker.

CIMG1603.JPG CIMG1605.JPG CIMG1608.JPG

CIMG1610.JPG CIMG1611.JPG CIMG1624.JPG

 

Hi Folks.

Well, about 2 weeks ago I sold the SRT-6 roadster that I had with the rear window problem to a close relative, with their knowing full well of the rear window repair that I just made. We have an agreement that if the repair should become even a minor problem again in the next year that I will refund them $1000, and given that they don't have a garage, it should prove to be a real test. FWIW, just prior to selling my SRT-6 I intentionally left it parked outside here for over a week in some brutal, nontypical, June Florida heat, and drove it close to 700 miles, with zero problems noted. So, my fingers are crossed, and I will continue to periodically provide you with honest info regarding the status of my repair.

I've been following the thread, and given the feedback so far, all appears good. Many have said that they followed my repair narrative, but I'm still really curious and need to ask if you also cleaned and primed the canvas too, per the narrative? I ask, because IMHO, the canvas/adhesive contact area is the real weak link in the system, and a manufacturing defect.

As I said in my post, what I observed on my loose glass panel was the primer, completely intact, and what I would guess was close to 100% of the original adhesive still stuck to the primer like it was factory new and part of the glass, it was so freakin strong. Did any of you notice this and share this opinion?

Happy 4th, and best regards -- Bob

 

You are right, Bob, in suggesting that the OEM bond to the canvas is the weak link. This is evidenced by the difficulty in getting the original adhesive off of the glass. So by all means when doing this repair, be sure to clean the canvas entirely using a small bronze brush and then soak it well with the 3M Single Step Primer.

Also, be sure to coat the edge of the glass. As a final step during the repair, I reached inside and applied a bead of the adhesive to the edge of the window and canvas, creating sort of a fillet weld between the two materials.

All things considered, I too believe that the fix can be as good or better than the original construction.

 

*******UPDATE*******
Try Rhino Glue. Its a thick cynoacrilate. I should have tried this stuff first! I have been using cynoacrilate (CA) glue for years with my radio controlled airplane habit. Crash, rebuild, crash, rebuild...

Well. Its been just about a month since the repair, and I'm 100% satisfied. It took 20 minutes all said and done. And cost about 20 bucks. Been parking it in the sun for about 3 days a week, in the Houston heat and its working out great! HIGHLY RECOMMEND.

However, you will spill a bit here and there so make sure you have a thick drop cloth, or old moving blanket. If you do get it in a place where you don't want it, you can undo it with a solvent. You should buy this before starting this project.

CA Solvent:
TowerHobbies.com | US-1 Hot Stuff Ultra Super Solvent 2 oz

SOOO HAAAAAAPYYYY!!

 

I don't understand why you people are going thru all that work to reattach a rear window that has come loose when Chrysler will replace the whole top at no charge?
Mine had the same problem, I wrote to Chrysler and they eventually funded the new top.
I wrote about this in an earlier post, but evidently the people who are going thru an uncertain priming, glueing, etc. process missed that post.

 

Hi tighed1,

I have a couple additional questions about your fix.

1. In your case on the repairs you did, was the fabric clean and pulled away from the glass with all the original adhesive/primer still intact on the glass?

2. Did you do anything to the fabric...scrap it, or clean it , or put any of the 3M product on it?

3. I know you did not use any primer the first time, but have you used any since then on the newer repairs you did?

4. If all your repairs are holding up, and it is only additional factory locations that are failing, have you considered going back and redoing the seal in all other locations that have not failed as yet to get it done and out of your hair, since the probability of additional failures occuring is very high?

5. If the failure is consistantly between the original adhesive and the fabric, is it necessary to remove the old adhesive that is still intact and well bonded to the glass? Would you consider putting a thin layer of the 3M stuff you are using on the fabric side and on the existing window side on top of the stuff that is there? If the 3M adhesive is the true bond, wouldn't using it as an interface layer be a beter fix, especially if it is bonding into both sides? What do you think?

Once again, thanks in advance for your comments and expertise in solving this problem. I am in the same position as many where the top is in very good condition and it is the glass/fabric problem that is the issue. My top is 5 years old, and have not had a problem until this recent heat wave where temps were above 95F with high humidity...that was the killer!

I do not keep my car inside, and when I noticed the glass/fabric separating, i've keep a car cover over it...hoping to minimize any additional damage, until I can repair it. It is silver and should help.

Thanks again for your help and any comments from the forum are greatly appreciated.

Also, I read the post using the "Rhino Glue" repair and that sounds promising, and I am interested in any updates on that...but the history of this repair still has the most credibility. Thanks

Ben

 

__________________________________________________ ____________

Hi aftcg,

Can you please update us on how you performed your repair with "Rhino Glue". What prep work did you do first and how did you apply it.

Thanks

Ben

 

Apparently we did miss your post. Tell us more. With whom did you make contact at Chrysler? How long/difficult process was it?

Pretty exciting news if you had recourse. Even better if we could go "class action" to remedy thus obvious defect.

More info. More info!

 

I was advised that it is considered a "Wear & tear" and in a way I can also agree. The fact that almost all other convertibles, BMW, Audi, VW, Corvette etc. all have some issues I think indicate that no one has a fool proof design to handle all conditions.

3M window weld - solo. - My tests indicate that the adhesion is quite poor to the fabric and also to clean glass. I also tested glass to glass and glass to rubber. Poor results
3M window weld + Primer - Tests with primer applied to glass and rubber indicate that it sticks great but is tough to squeeze in place and maintain pressure while it cures.
Adhesion 10, convenience 5.

Rhino Glue CA - Test indicate glass to glass and glass to rubber adhere excellently.
Due to convenience of fast set and multiple seals required to re-hem my window, I used the Rhino CA.
Adhesion 10, convenience 10, longevity with time????

I had all the glass out and removed all primer and masked off planning to use the window weld but after the comments on the CA and also experiencing the difficulty clamping the fabric to the glass, I elected to use the CA for the whole window.

This has been in place 3 weeks, hot CA sun and multiple 10+ retractions and the seal has remained as glued. I used two dent pullers and anything convenient to position the glass while I used the CA. Never mind what looks like, it held it well.

This gave me the flexibility to position the glass and center it and have it hold and then use the CA and to manually apply pressure while the CA set, both on the seam and with the seam against the glass. Ideally, if the fabric was off, it would be easier to clamp against the glass.

The final result is good. One note. When CA sets, it can leave a white residue on the material. This can be scraped off.

FWIW, I wonder if this would affect a factor replacement?

 

Just did the repair, after returning from the 2100 miles to CAA-RME.
Worked like a charm, followed Tighed1's steps, and it looks as tight as new!!
Thanks again to the people that help make this a great forum!

 

I as many others had my rear window fall out and decided to take the path of calling Chrysler directly to complain. They in turn are going to cover all but $600 of the top replacement which I prefer over having to do the repair. The issue now is that the dealer is having to wait 2-3 weeks to get it in as they are back ordered from the manufacture (or that is what they are telling me). Just to add to the number of failures that are occurring. I contacted a local guy that only replaces or repairs convertible tops and he told me that he replaced 5 last month and had 2 on order all of them 2005's. He has done so many tops that the manufacture keeps spare parts needed from the old top to make new ones just for him. Thought I would share the info.

 

It took 3 weeks to get the first replacement top, and I've been waiting about 10 days so far for the second. Be careful... the seams are also glued and mine have separated. I'd HATE to have to trade in this beautiful car!

 

To All:
The 303 products I used were: convertible Top Cleaning and Care Kit for Fabric Tops.

The kit has : 303 Convertible top cleaner and Fabric Guard Water Repellant
That's two 16oz. spray bottles. I think the Fabric Guard was what made the most difference because my top was pretty clean anyway.. I'm going to reapply it again. The defect is slightly visible now, but I hope a second application will help.
You have to cover the windows and paint, tape off the other soft parts and wipe off any over spray immediately. I used big black trash bags and blue painters tape. Becareful, take your time, let it soak in, spread it around, etc.

 

To All:
The 303 products I used were: convertible Top Cleaning and Care Kit for Fabric Tops.

The kit has : 303 Convertible top cleaner and Fabric Guard Water Repellant
That's two 16oz. spray bottles. I think the Fabric Guard was what made the most difference because my top was pretty clean anyway.. I'm going to reapply it again. The defect is slightly visible now, but I hope a second application will help.
You have to cover the windows and paint, tape off the other soft parts and wipe off any over spray immediately. I used big black trash bags and blue painters tape. Becareful, take your time, let it soak in, spread it around, etc.

 

Just discovered my rear window separation early last week. Did my research on this forum, which is always so valuable (thank you!), and I called the Chrysler customer line to lodge a product complaint. I went to the dealer with my case number so they could look at it and take photos. I was called twice by Chrysler last week and today the dealer called with the offer from Chrysler: full replacement with a new updated top with a co-pay of $300. I think a brand new top is worth $300 after almost six years and no warranty left. The top is now on back order and I should hear in a couple of days how long before it arrives.

In the meantime, I will have to do a temporary repair to keep water out, and I plan to use the 3M window weld product.

Thanks for all of the great information on this forum.

Frank

 

fmccamant, That is $300's better then the deal I got from them so I would say that it is a good deal. My top has been on backorder for 2 weeks and they are now saying another week or two. I had to glue mine in as a temp job just so I can use the xfire as it is has become a daily driver recently.

 

Hi, just found this forum when I did a search for my wifes 2005 Crossfire rear window falling out. We went to the local dealer and was told the part was 1500$ and we had to pay for everything. We are in south Georgia, hot as hell, and the car is kept in the driveway. She very rarely puts the top down, and never travels with the top up and windows down. I noticed her window separating pretty much all around just part of the top is still attached. I have read this entire thread and I am willing to do the fix but of course would much rather have Chrysler replace it properly. I do not see any recent posts about going thru the BBB or Chrysler. What would you people recommend, trying to contact Chrysler or doing the fix myself. Oh by the way the local Chrysler dealership is not an option as they are crooks, and have no customer service once you sign paperwork. Any advice would be appreciated.
thanks, this is my wifes dream car and she is very down.