BTW, according to the upholsterer I took mine to for the original fix, it's a German made top. Incidently, the upholsterer's attempt at a fix lasted about a week and a half. I used tighed1's fix & it has held up pretty good. I have had to fix 1 particular spot a couple of times, but the rest has held very good since using the 3M.
It seems like the problem is more prevelent when I leave the top down for extended periods of time. I'm not sure if the weight from the frame that sits on it (in the down position) is putting pressure on it or what, but it seems to hold up better when I put the top up between uses.

 

FYI, I contacted Eastwood regarding their convertible glass window rebond kit and they no longer offer the product.

 

Hey guys!

Tried the 3M winder-weld with some success. However, it failed after about 18 months of the Houston heat, and lots of cycles. I'm pretty good with my hands, and can fix nearly anything, so I'm positive it wasn't the installer's fault. [yeah, right]

I am going to try this:
Convertible Rear Window - How to Refasten - Corvette Forum

I shall post if successful or not.

 

No primer used by me. Wasn't aware of it till now.
Anyone else?

 

Thanks for the info about your not using the glass primer. Well, if your window is still doing well after 1.5 years, it says something about how to applied it. It a previos post I mentioned that all of my adhesive was still attached to the primer, and none of it was left on the canvas, so it would seem, at least in my case, that the adhesive is coming loose from the canvas, versus the glass. Maybe some other forum members can verify this? Given the longevity of your fix, did you happen to do anything special by way of cleaning and prepping your canvas prior to gluing it all back together? I'm just trying to do the best possible job that I can in hope that I can fix this obvious manufacturing defect...

My 3m window primer is in the mail, and I will be posting some pictures of my project later.

Thanks again -- Bob

 

Mine was the same, the canvas was nice and clean with all the adhesive still on the glass. I will take a picture and post it later today.

 

I commented earlier that my 3M solution was not a permanent fix. I used it again but I do believe this is just a temporary solution. I called around to some upholster places. One said they may be able to fix it as they have had some luck with VW, Audi, and Saabs. The other place told me this is a very common problem and mentioned problems with VW, Audi, Saab and several American made convertibles.. He said regluing just won't hold. He recommended a replacement top from GAHH Automotive GAHH: Convertible Tops, Auto Interiors, Quality Convertible Tops

GAHH is now shipping an Aftermarket replacement convertible top for the 2005-2009 Chrysler Crossfire. The convertible top is made from a Haartz German A5 canvas in black and includes a new defroster glass window that is the same size and contour as the original.

The Crossfire convertible top will be made to order at our factory in California. In order to manufacturer the top we must have the original top sent to us first to remove and reinstall extrusions. UltraMaxx Tops have a LifeTime Warranty against delamination of the bond between the window topping and the glass window.


They are the only mfg to guarantee no separation for the life of the top. This brought me to my next question to this guy. How long does a convertible top last? He said from his experience a top only lasts 5-7 years. Since mine is a '05, I'm on my 6th year. This GAHH top would cost me $1800, shipped and professionally installed. Only catch is you have to send them your current top so they can reuse the extrusions. This place is in Ca and I'm in SC so this guy told me ~ 3-5 days shipping out there, ~3-5 days for them to make the top and ~3-5 days to get back. I'm looking at 2+ weeks for a new top.

 

Has anyone tried this 3M product. It looks easier than a tube.
3M 08620 3M Window-Weld Round Ribbon Sealer, 08620, 1/4 in x 15 ft Roll

 

Hi. I looked this product up and read the instructions, and they said that this product was a supplement to the adhesive, not a replacement. Not to say that it wouldn't work, but they seem to advise otherwise...

Handling and Application Information

For installation of stationary glass when used as supplementary sealer/bonding material with urethane adhesive.

I received my 3m primer today and hope to fix my top this weekend...

Best regards -- Bob

 

Add me to the list of folks fighting with the roadster rear window. The OEM application really sux.

Anyway, using the 3M Window Weld with some success. We'll see. But we have to keep in mind that the Window Weld is a product intended to be used on windshield replacement, not necessarily intended for ragtop rear windows. With windshields, the stuff works fine, I'm sure. But when trying to glue a rear window, GRAVITY IS AGAINST US.

Just have to do the best we can. The problem I have with the 3M is keeping the bead of glue even so that no lumps appear. Been using strips of plywood and clamps to set the window and fabric together. Seems like a never ending battle ... short of a new top.

 

3M One Step Primer and 3M Windo-Weld Test Results

If you've been following this thread you know that tighed1 had great results in repairing his rear window roadster glass with 3M Brand Windo-Weld, #08609, which has held tight for 1.5 years. You can't argue with success, so I went out and purchased a tube at Autozone for $19. While reading the directions for use I noted that 3M stated that you needed to use their 3M Single Step Primer, #08681, when using the Wino-Weld on glass, so I went out and purchased some on the internet from Fox Run Tools for $29, which included shipping.

Once the 3M primer arrived (2 days!) I set about thinking how to test it out before using it, so I found a piece of glass, cleaned it properly, and then applied the primer to a section of the glass, coating an area about 1 foot long by 1 inche wide. After letting it dry for 15 minutes, I then applied a bead of the Windo-Weld straight down the middle of the dried primer, and then did the same on a section of the glass not coated with primer. I then used a single edge razor to slightly flatten each bead of Windo-Weld, much as would happen when it would be applied between the roadster glass and canvas top.

24 hours later, after the Windo-Weld had dried (technically, it actually "cures"), I tried removing it from the glass with my fingers. On the non-primed side, once I was able to get a grip on the Windo-Weld, it peeled off without much difficulty, much like removing silicone caulking on glass, if you've done it before.

I now tried to remove the Windo-Weld from the primed side with my fingers, and it would not budge -- it was like the Windo-Weld was part of the glass! So, I resorted to using a single edge razor, and even though it was a new, never used razor, I had some real difficulty cutting the Windo-Weld off the glass. It just didn't want to be removed! So, needless to say, I will be using the 3M Primer on my glass when I attempt to repair my roadster window today.

I'll post some pictures of my project and then provide some honest feedback on how it all went.

And, to give credit where credit is deserved, I want to say thank you to tighed1 for his sound advice on the 3M Windo-Weld product.

Best regards -- Bob

 

AAAAGH!

Screw it. The 3M Window Weld seems like it may hold (as long as you use the primer) but I'm not satisfied with the outcome. Now matter how you slice it, it's always going to look like a "fix".

Ordered mine today. And YES, it's $1500-$1800 and about a three week door-to-door process. But I believe that the quality of the materials and workmanship will be superior to Chrysler OEM. Note that GAHH provides tops for upper end cars, from Corvette to Lamborghini to Bentley, so looking forward to the results.



EDIT:: Here's a detail of the window bonding system. Looks like the real deal.





photo is from a Porsche Boxter with new glass window.

 

Well, I reattached my rear window to my convertible top and now only time will tell how long my repair will last... But hey, the ragtop was in like new condition, so it was worth a try, given that a new top will set you back $2 grand or so. And besides, only we motor heads know the sort of sick satisfaction one feels in being covered in sticky black adhesive and smelling like gas, right?
Total Cost: $50
Total Time: About 2 Hours
Parts and equipment required
Caulking Gun
Several Single Edge Razor Blades
Window Cleaner
Several clean rags
Several towels
Dabber (I used an acetone cleaned PVC cement can dabber)
one tube 3M brand # 08609 Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane Adhesive (Autozone $19)
one bottle 3M brand #08681 Single Step Primer (via internet, Fox Run Tools $29 delivered)
one roll masking tape, 3/4 wide or so
regular screw driver, about 3/8 inch wide tip
stop watch or timer
some gasoline for cleaning up mistakes and hands
Step-by-step Repair
Note: I would recommend that you read these instructions thoroughly before proceeding, and that you do a dry run beforehand, so you know the procedure and are assured that this technique is applicable to your situation.
1. Leave the top in the fully closed and locked position, and place both of your car seats as far forward as possible.
2. You will note in my pictures that I used both cork liner material and towels inside the rear window area. I used the cork liner so that: (a) the window could drop down and I could have room to apply the primer to both the glass and canvas, and (b) to protect my car finish from the window edge and any possible primer drips (which didn't happen). I removed the cork after applying both the primer and adhesive, and then placed the towels against the window to support it while I squeezed the adhesive out and while it cured overnight. I also used the towels for window support while I scrapped the old primer and adhesive out. note: my window was still securely attached for about 2 feet along the top, so I just popped the unattached portion of the glass outside of the canvas for better access while scrapping. Your situation may be different, but remember that there are 2 defroster wires located on each side of the window, so be careful! Thankfully, the factory left some slack in my cables, but the connections are fragile. BTW, I couldn't detach my connectors.
4. Using masking tape, place tape all along the edge of the window, about 3/8 inch from the edge of the old primer line (see picture), which should be visible on the outside edge of your window. Use a single edge razor to trim the tape as necessary. This tape will give the new primer a sharp clean edge, and later serve as a real good way of orienting the window in the canvas opening.
5. Now, using single edge razors, remove all of the old adhesive and the primer from the window edge. At first thought this may appear to be an easy task, but it's not, as the old primer is a freaking PITA to remove! Once it is all removed from the glass, use a razor to scrap the canvas where the original window adhesive used to be attached. Go back and forth, keeping the razor edge 90 degrees to the canvas, and scrap as much of the old, loose adhesive off as possible.
5. Clean the glass until it is spotless, and the canvas as best you can, removing any loose debris, etc. I used an ammonia based glass cleaner, acetone, and some clean lint free rags on the glass, and some lint free rags and some sticky masking tape (as tack) to clean the canvas.
7. Protect the interior of your car surface somehow (see 2, above). Shake the 3M Single Step Primer until you can hear the ball rattle freely, and then continue shaking for 60 seconds. Using a dabber (this is the key to a perfect primer application), apply the primer from the window edge right up to the masking tape. It goes on very smoothly and evenly, and this step couldn't be easier. The 3M Primer instructions, found on the internet, also said that the primer could be used on metals, plastics, and PVC, so I also applied the primer to my canvas where the adhesive would eventually be. Now, hack your watch and let it all dry for a minimum of 10 minutes (see primer instructions!). After the primer has dried, simply pull the masking tape off and marvel at the nice clean primer straight edge you created!
8. This step is the hardest part, so prepare for it. Using the caulking gun, apply the 3M Windo-Weld Urethane close (but not on the window edge. Remember, you will be squeezing most of it out) to the edge of the glass, directly on the primer. I applied a thick 1/4 to 3/8 inch bead. Once completely applied along your window edge, used a single edge razor to flatten the adhesive out slightly, and then, using your towels inside your car, place them against the glass so that the window is now flush up against the canvas opening, and offering firm support. Now, using your fingers and working quickly while the adhesive is still workable (see instructions), press the canvas against the adhesive along the entire window edge, using your new primer edge, as necessary, for orientation within the opening. I did this 3 times with my fingers around the canvas edge, and by feeling the edge of the glass through the canvas, you will definitely be able to tell how much glass/canvas adhesive contact area you have established. Once satisfied with my window orientation, I then used a flat (straight) screwdriver edge to further press the adhesive onto the canvas all along the glass/canvas contact area, and as you can see in the pictures, all the excess adhesive comes out from under the canvas edge onto the glass, where you can later remove it perfectly, once it is cured (step 9).
Note: I originally thought that this step was going to be way more complicated, and that I was going to have to devise some sort of clamping system to hold the glass (which is curved) and adhesive together until it was cured. But having experimented with the primer and adhesive the previous day, I learned that the adhesive (a fast curing urethane) was thick and extremely tacky, and that it wouldn't be necessary to use any clamping system at all (fortunately, this all proved to be true) The towels behind the glass proved more than adequate in holding the glass in place, and I didn't need to use any suction cups to hold the glass taut. BUT, you need to work quickly here, as the urethane sets up quickly, so keep pressing the canvas down in a manner that squeezes the excess urethane out from under the canvas and on to the glass, where you can later remove it after it dries. You can now see the importance of using the masking tape too, as it allows you to make a perfectly clean primer line, which allows you to orient the window perfectly in the canvas opening.
9. I waited 24+ hours for the Windo-Weld Adhesive to cure before attempting to remove the excess. Using a single edge razor, CAREFULLY cut (trim) the excess adhesive where it meets the canvas. Your first series of cuts will be straight down and into the adhesive directly along the canvas edge where the excess adhesive meets the canvas. This adhesive is some freaking tough stuff, so it may take you several cuts into the excess adhesive until you get through it and contact the glass. Now, CAREFULLY trim under the excess adhesive, cutting it (and the primer) just up to the point where you made your first downward cut. This is critical, as you don't want to cut out any of the adhesive which is under the canvas, which is obviously securing the window to the canvas. You'll get the knack. Now, refer to the picture, and holding your single edge as shown, remove the excess adhesive that you've now prepped for removal. By holding the razor as shown, you will not cut the canvas, and will cleanly remove the excess adhesive. Once the majority of the adhesive is removed, you can then spot trim and clean as necessary.
As can be seen from my final picture, I removed all of the primer and adhesive right up to the canvas edge, and I can't tell my window reinstallation from factory new. Now, we'll see how long it lasts...
Best regards -- Bob
　
　
　
　

 

Nice!
Makes me wanta rip out my glass and start over!

 

Great information - thanks to Bob and tighed1 also.

 

Great write-up, Bob!

Seems that the key is getting all of the old vulcanizing off the glass and canvas so that the new Single Step Primer can do its thing, because that 3M Window Weld is some damn tuff stuff when adhered to a properly prepped surface. My bet is that your window is going to hold forever with such a meticulous approach to the fix. Well done, Bob.

So if your rag top is in reasonably good shape, this is fifty bucks well spent.

 

Got to agree with these comments, Great Write-up Bob, gonna try this out before considering buying a NEW top, with these instructions even an Idiot could do it, BUT I don't know if I qualify, but will soon find out, will be doing mine in the next week or so, Thanks Again for the precise details.

 

TerryR:
I'll be glad to help you pull it off or do prep on the top for the 3M. You would have to come get me,as I still can't drive. Let me know if I can help.

 

Dave thanks for the offer, but I think I should be able to manage it by myself. I have ordered the 3M adhesive and the Primer from "Autobody Tool Mart" and propose to do it on Saturday or Sunday 25th/26th if it is not too hot. I have read "mach2plus's" write up, and have now got in my mind how I am going to go about it. Got to fit a new headlight bulb this weekend. Hopefully I should get delivery of my New SRT6 Early/Mid next week. Being shipped over from California. Another car in the stable. How Many Cars is TOO MANY?????

 

Ok, if you need me I'll probably be around though. I would sure like to have an SRT6 myself. Let me see it when it come in.