Tpm Recalibration
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From: Richmond, VA
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by ben47
I’m not being argumentative here, but you don’t paint a pretty picture of Chrysler techs in your area. That’s a pretty far fetched statement you made concerning their use of a torque wrench. Any mechanic has that knowledge way before they even graduate from tech school.
I'm not trying to bash the junior mechanics, but its simply a question of time because these guys get paid by the job. They don't want to waste the time breaking out the technical manual to look up the proper torque value. They just fire-up the ol' impact wrench and torque those bolts to "tight" +- 10 ft/lbs.
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Tpm Recalibration
bobs... I need your help... This is not a trick question... I'm trying to figure out how to remove the rear rotors... The manual gives a basic, very simple step-by-step... But I'm looking at this thing and it has a 12 point star nut that has a divot that punches into the shaft that looks like it's seated forever... The damned rotor won't come off like the manual describes... Do you have any ideas ???... Because I'm clueless and tried everything aside from taking it to a dealer ?
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by bobs
I'll take a look at mine and let you know what I find. If you're talking about what I'm thinking of, that should just be a retaining nut that holds the rotor in place when the wheel is off.
Any info would be helpful because I'm trying to install the larger SRT6 rotors and calipers on the car... The front rotors were a snap, but I removed the entire hub with the rotor, then separated them...
Last edited by HDDP; 01-07-2006 at 02:07 PM.
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From: Yulee, FL
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by danimal
It sounds like the rotor has seized as there should be nothing else holding it. Looks like you may just have to beat the crap out of it to get it off. A good sledgehammer and block of wood (if there is room) should work. Good luck!
I'm surprized that they would lock-up like that, I live in So. Cal. and the car sees very little water. Usually that stuff happens when they start to rust... Must be the daily car washes... LOL
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Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by bobs
Ben, I will have to disagree with you on that point. Take something as simple as tire rotation: When is the last time you've seen a tech break out a torque wrench to put the tires back on? The owner's manual specifies 81 ft/lb of torque . I'll be willing to wager that if you were to check the torque on your lug nuts they wouldn't even be close. I'll bet your oil filter cap is on too tight as well.
I'm not trying to bash the junior mechanics, but its simply a question of time because these guys get paid by the job. They don't want to waste the time breaking out the technical manual to look up the proper torque value. They just fire-up the ol' impact wrench and torque those bolts to "tight" +- 10 ft/lbs.
I'm not trying to bash the junior mechanics, but its simply a question of time because these guys get paid by the job. They don't want to waste the time breaking out the technical manual to look up the proper torque value. They just fire-up the ol' impact wrench and torque those bolts to "tight" +- 10 ft/lbs.
BTW, about five years ago my wife could not get a flat tire off because the lug nut was stripped as a result of the last guy being in a hurry, cross threading it using an impact wrench. I aired the tire up when I got home and drove the couple of miles to the tire store. They admitted they may have screwed it up. They replaced the lug bolt and stud at no charge and fixed the tire for free. Since then, whenever I visit a tire shop I specify... hand tighten only, no impact wrench.
Off topic again, sorry...
Last edited by ben47; 01-07-2006 at 03:27 PM.
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From: Richmond, VA
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by HDDP
Bobs... Thanks... The manual says, remove caliper, remove rotor set screw, remove rotor... the set screw is a small allen head that is installed through the rotor, and the manual gives a graphic description of the process... I did the process and neither side will budge... It really looks like the center hub nut needs to be removed, but it is forged onto the axel shaft with a very definate crimp... Could the rotors be seized onto the hub ? I'd hate to beat the SHI* out of these things to get them off...
Any info would be helpful because I'm trying to install the larger SRT6 rotors and calipers on the car... The front rotors were a snap, but I removed the entire hub with the rotor, then seperated them...
Any info would be helpful because I'm trying to install the larger SRT6 rotors and calipers on the car... The front rotors were a snap, but I removed the entire hub with the rotor, then seperated them...
I have pictures of the bolt in question here and here.
FYI, my car is one of the earlier production models, S/N 1088 built in May of 2003.
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by bobs
HDDP, I got the little 12-point screw out with no problems. After that the rotor should separate from the hub easily. If it doesn't I would WD-40/Liquid Wrench the snot out of it, especially where the hub pokes through the rotor and around the back where the rotor mates with the hub. Let it sit overnight and then give it a bit of gentle persuasion with a BFH.
I have pictures of the bolt in question here and here.
FYI, my car is one of the earlier production models, S/N 1088 built in May of 2003.
I have pictures of the bolt in question here and here.
FYI, my car is one of the earlier production models, S/N 1088 built in May of 2003.
PS: thanks for the pictures... those are what the manual refers to as the "rotor set screw"... My VIN is 8391... It must be from the repeated heating and cooling from my adventures on the track... there is no rust...
And BTW... You're the best, you didn't have to go do that today just to solve this problem... I noticed that you shot the pics today... I owe you one !!!
Last edited by HDDP; 01-07-2006 at 05:16 PM.
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From: Richmond, VA
Re: Tpm Recalibration
That's true. I imagine that your rotors have gotten a bit warmer than the average owner's have!
If you're not really worried about saving the rotor you can also try and heat it up around the hub a bit with a torch and then give it a couple of whacks with a hammer.
Just be careful if you have already soaked it with WD or oil because things could get a bit smoky!
If you're not really worried about saving the rotor you can also try and heat it up around the hub a bit with a torch and then give it a couple of whacks with a hammer.
Just be careful if you have already soaked it with WD or oil because things could get a bit smoky!
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From: Richmond, VA
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by ben47
Off topic again, sorry...
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From: Richmond, VA
Re: Tpm Recalibration
HDDP, One last thing. If you don't want to use too much persuasion from the BFH, you could try using a gear puller on the rotor as well. Some auto parts chains here on the east coast will actually loan them to you for a nominal fee which you get back when you return the tool.
Last edited by bobs; 01-08-2006 at 06:51 AM.
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Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by ben47
A dealership that sells new Crossfires is required to have two Crossfire trained technicians, BUT you can not expect and will not find trained techs changing oil or doing other "simple" maintenance tasks. That kind of work is usually farmed out to the young oil change kid or apprentice mechanic being paid far less than what a certified tech makes.
I thought you said there were only two Crossfire techs within 250 miles of you? The decent dealership you speak of, is it selling "new" Chrysler, BMW and Audi vehicles or one that sells used vehicles and has mechanics with some experience on various German brands?
I’m not being argumentative here, but you don’t paint a pretty picture of Chrysler techs in your area. That’s a pretty far fetched statement you made concerning their use of a torque wrench. Any mechanic has that knowledge way before they even graduate from tech school. You must be dealing with some good ole boys working out of their backyard chugging too many Bud Lites while they're working.
While everyone is free to express their own ideas and voice opinions, your story just doesn't sound for real... if it is, remind me not to break down anywhere near there.
Just an FYI... every Chrysler dealership that opted to sell the Crossfire had to shell out $$$ to train at least two techs, parts inventory and special tools and equipment needed that are Crossfire specific. I doubt seriously the dealerships you spoke of had techs as dumb as you make them sound.
Oh, and what about warranty work on your car? Are you doing that yourself too?
I thought you said there were only two Crossfire techs within 250 miles of you? The decent dealership you speak of, is it selling "new" Chrysler, BMW and Audi vehicles or one that sells used vehicles and has mechanics with some experience on various German brands?
I’m not being argumentative here, but you don’t paint a pretty picture of Chrysler techs in your area. That’s a pretty far fetched statement you made concerning their use of a torque wrench. Any mechanic has that knowledge way before they even graduate from tech school. You must be dealing with some good ole boys working out of their backyard chugging too many Bud Lites while they're working.
While everyone is free to express their own ideas and voice opinions, your story just doesn't sound for real... if it is, remind me not to break down anywhere near there.
Just an FYI... every Chrysler dealership that opted to sell the Crossfire had to shell out $$$ to train at least two techs, parts inventory and special tools and equipment needed that are Crossfire specific. I doubt seriously the dealerships you spoke of had techs as dumb as you make them sound.
Oh, and what about warranty work on your car? Are you doing that yourself too?
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Re: Tpm Recalibration
Originally Posted by Idaho
Well Ben whether you mean to be or not you are being argumentative.
The dealership you are using now, do they sell the Crossfire? If so, they are required to have the trained mechanics which would mean there were more than two of them within a 250 mile radius as you stated in your original post.
There are several large volume dealers in my area that sell many different brands, but they are separate dealerships under one umbrella that have separate showrooms/shops and qualified mechanics for each make. You will not find a KIA tech working on a BMW etc.
Anyway, good luck getting your car properly taken care of in your area... and remember, having a different opinion/view doesn't make it argumentative. I guess I shouldn't have opened my sentence the way i did...
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