I could really care less what you think of my comments, HDDP. It's the same case of facts and logic vs. pie-in-the-sky mods that got your panties in a bunch a while back played out again here. Common theme here is if your going to make the statement "more h.p., more torque, and you need this mod"...back it up with facts.

If my posts bother you so much, add me to your "ignore" list..you will probably be added to mine soon just due to the fact that no matter how many ways I reword it to help your feeble mind comprehend...you still are clueless on how to use the "Search" function to find my past postings...

 

85X037944 This is the vin you told another member that you owned, LOL... Now I know you're blowing smoke... If I'm not mistaken from my online DC star tech reference, all SRT6 Crossfires are either 25X or 35X.

Post the pictures of this alleged car and alleged mods. with the SLK55 air box... If not, pipe down and go away... There are no pictures of your alleged SRT6 in any of your previous 400+ posts... Nor are there any in your gallery... Nor is the vin # that you gave to NXM even a valid vin # for a SRT6. He even stated that it was the same vin that he saw on an e-bay sale... Here's his post... "yep, ebay. i found that one too. i figure i would try and get someone's permission first , but i'll go with that one. thanks again".

Now I know why countries go to war...

 

First of all I'm not selling any products like the hypervoltage. If my custom CAI shows a good result then why not manufacture it and get rich? There's alot of crossfire owners here (like me) that wants more power!

The quote "To contest this claim is to try it! C'mon you can afford a Crossfire and cannot afford this? " was specifically addressed to respdoc. It's my challenge to him that before you open your mouth try it first so that what you really believe is based on your experience and not just looking at the picture!

It makes a big difference with what you claim and what my experience is with the hypervoltage system! Did I deny it that I was wrong when Andrew brought up some articles about the turbonator and how these experts think it don't work?

Bottom line, I'm just sharing my experience here and I don't really care if others will follow me or not!

It's like Viagra...take it first to see if it really works! CASE CLOSED!

 

Doc, are we talking about the same thing here? It sounds like you're referring to spark plug wires. The hyper voltage system appears to be essentially a power conditioner, which is not necessarily a bad thing to have. If it can dampen voltage transients and filter out alternator & ignition noise I can see where the product could be of use.

I know that many deceptive "tests" or "studies" are out there, that's why you always have to look at the source of that study's funding before you determine how much credence you put in them. Remember back in the 1950s, the big tobacco companies published "scientific studies" that showed that cigarette smoking had no detrimental health effects. Now we all know that data might have been a bit skewed, don't we?

In the case of the Hypervoltage system, what we have is anecdotal evidence that the product works as advertised from someone who has nothing to gain or lose by providing it. Cyril though the product had some merit and decided to spend $229 of his own money to find out. Personally, I thought it was very nice of him to share his results. If you want concrete proof of any alleged power gains, I'm sure Cyril would be happy to volunteer his car for a couple of pulls on the dyno. All you need to do is find a shop in Cyril's area and give them your credit card # so they can bill you for the runs. If you're unwilling to do that then quit busting his chops about it and get on with life. This thread is becoming much too ugly...

 

Bobs,

Could not have said it any better!

 

I know this link is about Hyper Ground rather than Hyper Voltage but its interesting nonetheless:

http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0401cae_hyper/

 

Please tell me your joking because there's no way someone can possibility be this odd, and dumb ...I just checked the posting with my VIN and it wasn't even close to the number you listed above. Also Einstein, I re-read some of my old posts WITH pics of my car and low and behold someone with the member name "HDDP" replied to a few of them...

You have a few members here tricked into thinking you know a thing or two about the Crossfire. My advice would be to quit now before you make yourself look like anymore of a fool...(i.e. Mercedes makes both the SL55 and SLK55 models. What fits the SRT-6 and what is on my car is the SL55 intake (listed in my sig) not the SLK55)...

 

Since Cyril said he is planning on selling copies of his intake setup I assume he's going to get some dyno runs since people are going to be asking for them before they make the decision to buy the intake.

As with some M.B.'s I've worked with I assume also with the Crossfire, the car has a battery control unit that senses the load and adjusts it as need be when the battery starts to get low. If this device is put before a battery control unit the computer doesn't get accurate readings to total energy usage...

 

Sorry but I have to add this. Everytime I open my doors and my illuminated door sills get activated, it makes a humming noise. After my Hot Inazma hypervoltage system was installed, the humming sound is gone!

It's one proof that it does work with our car's electrical system.

 

According to Chrysler it is.
VIN Number: ...Vehicle Description: ... Model Year:
1C3AN79N8 5X037944 ... CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE SRT-6 TWO DOOR SPORTS COUPE ... 2005.

 

Cyril, where did you connect the additional ground wire? Very clean install from your photo, but I was just wondering if you grounded to the frame or block...and why?

Curiosity got the better of me and I ordered it today...not for the horsepower/torque claims so much, but to see if it would cure the fluctuating voltage, especially at night when running lights, fogs, A/C, etc. etc.

Heck, I have spent more money than that on VERY BAD DATES!!! I'm not trying to refuel a very negative thread, but you have the experience with this thing up to now. Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

cyril,
when i get back, i will buy one!!! heheheheh your a XF scientist and your XF from the boot to the engine bay is phenomenal!!!
josh

 

Here's a link for the ground locations.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=353470

I had my ground wire in the engine block where I found a hole there that looks like a there's a missing screw!

Does anyone have this in your engine?

 

It is the same on mine. Thanks for the info.

I will post whether or not it solved my voltage fluctuations and any other observations after I get it installed.

 

Rediscovered this thread after being away for a couple of weeks and just wanted to put in my 2 cents...

I now have owned my Xfire for a little over a year... Just passed 7,000 miles... So far, no - repeat NO - major issues. It has performed flawlessly.

Only issues are the driver's seat heater is out (since I bought it) and the "rattle" in the back hatch. On the first item... I took it into the dealer - they kept it a day to confirm the diagnosis which seemed silly, but I just work a block away. When the part came in they arranged for installation - took it in early one day - at the end of that day, I get a call: "we can't find the part"!?! So... Another parts order placed - it is in now and they have called again to set up install, but I may pass after reading about some of the issues with installation (they did NOT get the entire seat bottom and I fear it will just lead to a poorly fitted seat cover).

The rattle has about driven me nuts - took it to the dealer to have the TSB performed only to discover that the "new" latch mechanism was already in the car according to them. They couldn't find anything except the noise after a day. I have totally disassembled the hatch lock mechanism myself - twice - without influencing anything. I have driven around the neighborhood with my mechanic friend in the trunk... still unable to locate. He thought it might be a loose baffle in the muffler, but it still sounds to me like it is in the vicinity of the latch... Oh well...

Have changed the oil (from the top) x2. Will do again soon from the bottom end when I also plan to install Rotex Gold brake pads. Just removed the K&N filters to clean today - filthy. Will let them dry out a day or two and use paper filters until can re-oil and re-install.

Am getting about < 20 MPG as I can't keep my foot out of it... The times that I have behaved, I have passed 20 MPG...

The Inazma HyperVoltage System continues to be a valuable addition to the car, I believe. The car definitely runs better with it in place - smoother, no voltage dips, no lag time in acceleration, etc. Highly recommended. This also continues to work well in my friend's RX-8.

Tried SpiralMax inserts - couldn't tell any effect (yes, they were installed correctly - at least 3 times), so wouldn't waste $.

Tires still in great shape (Contis) - no bent rims - no body issues (interior or out) - no squeaks, rattles, or pops. No headlight "haze" since polishing last year with 3M Plastic Polish...

Summary: a great little car - one of the best I have owned - definitely was a "steal" at c. $23-24K... I don't mind driving a "half-price", better looking Mercedes at all!

 

Okay, the system has been installed. Electrically, it has made all the difference in the world...no voltage fluctuations, no RPM fluctuations, brighter lights throughout, smoother response...you will definitely notice a difference.

As far as the more horsepower & torque claim...I don't know, I don't care, I can't prove it, I don't won't too...not what I installed it for. I'm happy because for all the other claims that are made about this system, IT WORKS.

As far as grounding, I ran the ground to the engine. I am going to add one additional ground wire to the frame...and then I'm done.

 

Exactly my experience... The little InZma device is the best money I've spent on the car.

 

My rear hatch began to rattle a couple of months back. In the end I adjusted the bump stops and greased the latch, and the rattle has gone! HTH

 

Another interesting observation - the dyno graphs that they show in the article only show the engine speed range from 5,250-6,250 rpm. In fact, if you look at the low and high ends, it appears that the non-modified vehicle has higher horsepower and torque. Makes you wonder why they don't bother to show the entire speed range, or at least down to say 2,500-3,000 rpm.

Anyone care to guess at an answer?

 

If you READ the article, it is all explained to you why...you don't even have to guess.