I've researched all the threads I could find and need specific advice on what steps to take / what to replace first.

Some background:

Key fob battery has been replaced and it has been verified as transmitting a strong signal.

I have unsuccessfully tried to reprogram the key fob several times using all the technics mentioned online and in this forum.

Interior lights are working and the #9 fuse is intact.

When pressing key fob buttons, running lights do not flash, nor alarm siren chirp (I replaced the alarm siren several years ago with one that chirps.)

Air pump for door locks is functioning as the interior lock switch is working correctly.

Driver's door can be manually locked with a key, but it does not lock the passenger door during that process. (Or unlock it)

I have removed the panel where the audio amplifier is located and verified all electrical connections

I have checked the connections on the BCM (Body Control Module) but don't have the ability to test it.

Skreem allows the car to start without any issues.

 

Do you have a second key that does unlock the doors?
With the Skreem module allowing it to be driven I would say that the key is emitting the correct frequency.
I had a similar issue slightly different and it was my CLP/SSM.
Have you taken a look at the CLP/SSM? To ensure that no water damage has occurred?
When my CLP/SSM was damaged my locks would still lock but my lights would not flash, my fog lamps and map lights would not stay on after exiting the car. It is strange what corrosion will do to electronics. I too started with the siren and then found the CLP/SSM issue.
After I repaired my CLP/SSM and my siren everything worked as it should.

 

I have a second key fob that starts the car, but has not unlocked the doors since I replaced the worn fob housing on it.

I'll take a physical look at the CLP/SSM, but living in Vegas, the only way it would have water damage is from the car wash.

 

I know how you feel. My SRT is garage kept and I bought her in southern California. Still my CLP/SSM was wrecked water was in the trunk and all I have ever done is hand wash it.
Take a good look. Take the connections off.
Please let us know what you find.

 

I accessed the CLP/SSM this morning. It was dry as a bone, but I was surprised there was nothing holding it down to the body.

All four connections were removed, sprayed with electronic cleaner and re-attached.

Same problem exists however.

Do you think a dead internal battery in the alarm siren could cause the key fob to not work? I read that in a post somewhere.

 

I had my siren removed but I also had my CLP/SSM removed at the same time so I honestly don’t know.
Great thing is there are lots of great people on here that in time will inform us.

 

I removed the siren but the problem persisted, so the connection was cleaned and it was re-installed.

I'm wondering if the BCM would be the next culprit ?

 

Are you sure you have programmed it correctly? The procedure must be followed perfectly ?

 

And reconnecting the siren is a mistake; either disconnect it or replace it, but do not leave an old none functioning siren in the car.

 

The fact that he said "Driver's door can be manually locked with a key, but it does not lock the passenger door during that process. (Or unlock it)" seems to mean it's not the key fob programming. On my Crossfire, the key will manually unlock and lock both the driver side and the passenger side doors plus the trunk lock. There are some diagnostic steps given in the Service Manual that might help. In my 2005 Service Manual, I'm looking at info beginning page 8E-60.

But, yes, I agree, I wouldn't put an old alarm back into the circuit.

I would double-check the BCM connections again...but I'm just guessing.

 

That is an excellent point Keith! Yes, both doors and the hatch as well as the interior light should all work when the door is unlocked manually. If you do not open the door after unlocking, but simple watch the car for a minute or two the doors will re-lock by themselves. I'm guessing a bit here, but I think that is a function of the CLP/SSM in the rear. If those functions are not acting properly the OP has a bad CLP/SSM which needs to be replaced. He should at the least double check all connections for corrosion as has been previously posted. Can anyone confirm that the anti theft module in the air pump and not the BCM is responsible for the re-lock function as well as determining that the two doors and the hatch opens unlocks? I think the BCM locks the doors when you get up to 7~8 mph; A good scan tool should be able to diagnose the problem here.

 

From the service manual:VEHICLE RELOCKING

In order to avoid unlocking the vehicle unintentionally, the vehicle is relocked by the CLP/SSM via the SKREEM module. Relocking is accomplished after unlocking with the remote control when: a door is not opened within 40 seconds, the key is not inserted into the ignition lock, or the interior power door lock switch is not actuated. The CLP/SSM reads the signals (door contacts, interior power door lock switch) and actuates the power door lock actua- tors. The vehicle security alarm is also activated by the relocking function.

If the service manual is correct; The OP needs to replace the CLP/SSM in the rear of the car. Or he has a problem within the SKREEM. I certainly would replace the CLP/SSM before messing with the SKREEM. I also am assuming all the related fuses (25 & 26 particularly) have been checked and are okay.

Another way to try an isolate of the problem to the CLP/SSM would be to exchange a BCM with another similar Crossfire, Perhaps the OP knows someone who is willing to make a temporary exchange just to test the BCM.

If the little light is not blinking on the tow-away disabling switch the anti theft alarm is not resetting, and that, to me, would also indicate a problem with the CLP/SSM vice the BCM.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. I will purchase a used CLP/SSM and see if that is the issue. I understand there shouldn't be any programing necessary - just connect the electrical harnesses and the 3 pneumatic hoses?

They are around $200 on Ebay and I cannot find a new one available.

 

Needswings has them new around 540 if I remember. Non returnable due to special order.
I would see if someone in your area will let you borrow theirs to try first.

 

People have wrecked the board in the fob when prying the two halves apart.
It is an expensive boo boo these days, maybe you can take it apart and see if there is any damage that is repairable.

 

Well I replaced the CLP/SSM and have the same issues. So it's not the culprit.

I'm also hearing a faint but fast crunching or clicking sound from near the center air vents on occasion.

What should I replace next?

 

That clicking sound might be from the BCM. So disconnect battery, remove BCM and open it up and check the board to see if anything is burned or looks like it. If that is the case then you need to find a used one that preferably has the same part number and HW and SW on it as the one you have. I also think make sure it is for the same transmission manual/auto but not 100% sure on that one.