Have you not downloaded the service manual from the SRT6 section here on the forum? It has pictures showing the fuel line routing.

 

Thanks ALAXFIRE for your help and comments.

Mr Miata. Thank You. I am going to download it and will compare.

Should install the new one tonight. i DID NOT INSTALL IT YESTERDAY CAUSE i WAS SO SURE THE FUEL PUMP WAS THE PROBLEM BUT... LOOKS LIKE NOT... AT THAT POINT I AM LOST A BIT.

 

If the noises do not sound destructive, clear the codes and keep the engine running long enough to set new codes. Maybe your problem(s) have changed.

 

Have you closely checked all the vacuum lines on the car?

C Two codes
P0171
P0174
Codes seems to explaina fuel pressure issue or MAF sensor

You noted in a post you got a MAF for 30 bucks.. Details on this? Chances of it having been bad?

 

Please do two checks for me, easy and helpful.

1. measure the rail fuel pressure passenger side front fitting near top of S/C. Takes a fitting, I use air conditioning gauge here. If you have no gauge, loosen the valve core and install the rubber hose over it to see the pressure, should be about 60 PSIG. Do this with someone else to start the car while your at the hose so that they CAN TURN OFF CAR if you have a leak. Pressure???

2. Measure the intake manifold to see that you have 20 inches of mercury, there are several points to measure it. The hoses below the TB is one point, though Id measure it at the fitting going off the manifold in the same region.

If you have a gross vac leak you could see this operation.

Measuring the fuel pressure would save you money and time doing the same thing over and over again with no different outcome.

Id also keep checking the codes to see if any different codes pop out.

Woody

 

I am a bit dim tonight, so could you explain that with more detail as I did not understand what you said. I do know what you are getting at though.

If Einstein was alive I'd like to ask him to explain his theory of relativity as most of what he said went over my head as well.

 

And if you are still unsure about fuel line routing.. this thread should help out..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...004-coupe.html

 

Hi All

I hope All had a nice Merry Christmas with Family and/or friends.

Received the scanner, ( Thank You for the recommendation ). It shows no code! I started the car a bit difficult to start. Had to Pump with the foot.

Tomorrow, I will check the fuel pressure and change the Fuel Filter for the second time.

Will Post asap. Hopefully tomorrow late afternoon!

 

Hi All,

The Fuel pressure is 15Psi instead of 54 to 61Psi. right?
Codes are :
P0304
P0301
P0173
P0171


The fuel pump was changed a few days ago BOSCH bought on EBAY

the car is still a bit difficult to start when cold and even more when hot.

With this new information, please let me know what you think.

As Always, Thanks for the generous help.

Max

 

-Mass Air Flow sensor is
Part Brand: AutoExtra/Standard Motor Product
Part #MF21039


-Crankshat is WELL
Manufacturer Part Number: SU4740
\

-Camshaft sensor is Brand BOSCH

FUEL PUMP is BOSCH bought on Ebay. NEW

Let me know what you think.

Thanks

 

ok.
One mistake
The Fuel PUMP I bought is not BOSCH BRAND but Dynapex!!
I did not pay attention enough the way they listed the item.

 

Per post #34 .. is it possible to hook fuel pressure gauge directly to pump.. bypass the filter.. and confirm a low pressure there? If you can and still shows low pressure contact your ebay vendor.. hopefully some kind of warranty if the pump is not pressurizing enough.

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
(EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF). BEFORE TESTING OR SERVICING
ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSE, FITTING OR LINE, THE FUEL SYSTEM
PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.
With the ignition off.
Install a fuel pressure test gauge to the fuel rail.
Start the engine and observe the fuel pressure reading.
Note: Fuel pressure specification is 3.7 to 4.2 bar (54 to 61 psi).
Choose a conclusion that best matches your fuel pressure reading.
Within Specification
Go To 6
Below Specification
Go To 14
Above Specification

Replace the fuel filter/pressure regulator.

 

What about the fuel Pump sold on Needswings?

Thanks MrMiata, I always appreciate your help.

Question! What else can disturb the fuel pressure beside the fuel pump?

Thanks

 

You won't go wrong with one from them..

Other than a low voltage condition (highly unlikely).. the filter/regulator would be the only thing left if the pump actually came up to pressure.

 

While I am under the car. Should I check the voltage?
Now, I am going to change the filter and pump and hopefully will check the voltage if you guys can help to tell me how to check the voltage and which tool I do need.
Sorry...

Thanks a lot,

 

I really wouldn't worry about checking the voltage if you don't have a meter handy.. just make sure the wires and connections are in good clean shape.

 

Hi All,

Question!
To Install the fuell filter, the back side is for the CAN & MOT. On the pic provided that shows the set up. I can not see clearly which hose connect to the CAN OR MOT. One hose has a "round steel...thing", This one goes to the CAN or MOT?

Hopefully, you will understand my question....

Thank You

 

Any thought about where to get the BOSCH MAF to an acceptable price! Thanks

 

I would be tempted to go this route.. at least has a 90 day warranty..

2001 2005 Mercedes C240 C320 Air Flow Meter LKQ | eBay

What did you figure out on the low fuel pressure?

 

Can I step in here and say something? I just now noticed this thread, and it bothers me that something was missed back many, many posts.

It was reported that the fuel pressure showed zero pounds. 180 correctly stated that the engine would not run with no fuel pressure. My viewpoint is that this was a terrible error, the assumption appears to have been made that the zero reading was the problem. As 180 said, it CAN NOT be that you had zero pounds of fuel pressure. IF you actually had good pressure, you wasted time going after the pump/regulator.

You CANNOT troubleshoot something if your tests don't make sense. When a test does not report a sensible answer, you should STOP and redo the test. The car did NOT have zero fuel pressure, 180 has already stated that the car would not be running in that case.

So, where IS the problem? It sounds to me like the pump replacement did not go well and added a new layer of trouble. Sadly, we don't know what the pressure was in the first place because the reading reported was impossible.

The engine (if there is not physical damage like broken pistons or ruined timing gears/chain), needs only two things to run:

1) Plugs that fire at the right time. The plugs are fired by the PTCM/ECM on information largely provided by the Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors. If both sensors are not BOSCH parts, past experience tells us that all bets are off on how accurate the plugs are firing.

2) Fuel injected at the right ratio of Fuel/Air. For this, we need accurate info from the MAF sensor, good fuel pressure (not too much, but CERTAINLY not too little), and the proper electrical timing from the PTCM/ECM to the fuel injectors. Timing comes from the same sensors as in 1) above.

Seems to me like an ACCURATE measurement of the fuel pressure should be step one. Like 180 says, if you read no pressure but the engine *kinda* runs, you cannot have zero pressure and if that is what you see, your pressure test is not being done right. Without good information, you are not troubleshooting, you are just going in circles.

With the developments in the last few posts, I'd say its time to really look at the pressure. Get it RIGHT first, (54 to 61 PSI) then, if the car won't run right, move on from there. My next step would be BOSCH cam and crank sensors, even if there is no P-code being tripped or no engine light.



I hate to say it, but:
Of course, this all assumes you didn't start out with a tank of bad gas.