With a fulcrum effect, that would mean the hight of the frame would be slightly different.

 

My thoughts as well.

 

eye brows are cool

 

With 1.5 degrees of neg camber, my calculations put the drop in the frame at .052". Or to put it into technical terms about the same result as two cases of beer.

I have a hard time in seeing any change in camber with a 2" offset, I think that the wheel will see less camber change over a bump when compared to the OEM spec, nothing drastic though.

My concern would be the bolt length and rubbing the fender lip. But I know f*** all about suspension so I may be completely wrong.

 

I want the "Audi" Style LED's around my headlights... but... I don't have the skill, or the ***** to cut open my headlights up... (I saw a "How to" on this forum) ... anyone found an alternative to major surgery that's affordable and won't come off in the rain?

 

There is a thread on here somewhere about installing the "string of LED;s" AROUND the headlights without doing any major surgery.
I'm inherently lazy, so you do the searching, but trust me, it's here somewhere.

Aw, what the heck : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ght=led+string

 

Clifford my boy, I know you live in the mtns, but this isn't a jeep...get the tires back inside the fender wells. Neg camber or not....

 

This weekend has really made me miss my '68 Chevy.. Between the sidepipe thread and tires hanging out past the fenders...

 

Thanks Alaxfire... ordered the Side Shine Strips today... Looks pretty easy... Just need some time off now... LOL

 

Man that's just horrible

 

I think a drop and a proper tuck looks 100 times better than that kind of offset. Or at least if you're going to have wheels sticking out like that, it should be because you have some crazy wide wheels and slicks

 

I don't see how camber is going to change and it looks ok in the picture. I must admit I check camber with a level and eyeball.

The wheel offset is a little strong for my liking but I passed 19 a while back.

Now let's discuss lowing and rolling the fender. Or is the next step 2" risers.

 

OK, haven't any of you guys ever seen an old VW Dune Buggy from the 60's and 70's that always had deep Dish, or reversed wheels on the back. Don't you remember how much negative camber they had? Especially when ever they were launching. It's the same principle on any car that has an IRS.
Adding a spacer to kick the wheel out 2", is essentially no different than installing a reversed rim. Either way, the tire is going to be further away from the point where the axle pivots at the outer CV joint.
In essence, it's like your installing a longer axle shaft, that is going to put more leverage on the springs, and create more negative camber. At least that's the way I see it.
But maybe the rear camber arms will prevent it from happening, I don't know.

 

+1 I kinda look at it like lifting 10 lbs with a 1 ft pole.. then try it with a 10 foot pole.. same basic principle .. further out from the pivot point the more force exerted ..

 

Nothing rubs at all, I've got about an inch between the tire and the fender lip. So basically as long as I don't hit any dips at 60 mph, I'm solid :P

 

+Fireamx... where's that dragon picture with the colorful leaves back drop.. seems your rear tire was real close to tucked in at the fender on that shot.. (pretty sure that was your car in the picture)

 

And the primary reason I added the adapters as at is because I was hoping it would give it a more aggressive look, similar to an old school roadster. Seeing as how the way the Crossfire is put together that removing the fenders would destroy the look of the vehicle entirely, I found a safe and simple solution. If anyone who thinks its adding a ton of negative camber would care to take a look at my gallery, I have a photo the shows the slant of the tires perfectly. (It's pretty much identical to what any unmodified Crossfire's rear wheels would look like.)

Furthermore, I posted this seeking information on aftermarket parts, improvements, etc. Not to discuss the physics of how adding distance from the center point on an axle will negatively effect stress on it. Two inches isn't enough to cause a dramatic change in this vehicle, the reason being that the vehicle itself isn't particularly heavy in the rear-end.

I like how my car looks with the adapters, and that's really what matters isn't it?

 

Well to your original question, there are very limited products for the exterior.. there are two styles of carbon fiber hood made by another member, though Idont think there are any left for sale.. there are a few alternatives for the grill though mixed reviews.. aside from that there are clear side markers from Europe, a couple parts from German companies (such as the Startech rear spoiler add on).. front lips have to be custom made or you have to get the whole srt front bumper.. basically check out my gallery and you'll see pretty much all those options

 

We like to discuss anything and everything and as you can see a discussion solely on after market parts would have dried up after two or three posts. So you have to get used to opening a can of worms and roll with the blows.

I would check those wheel bolts torque settings pretty often and I hope they have ball heads and not cone heads. But you know all this.

I was 19 once and thought I knew everything, now I'm old and have forgotten most of what I learned, but I still know more than when I was 19.

 

Mr. Miata, here it is.
Message - CrossfireForum.org Gallery

A lot of people thought I lowered my car, but that was just a sweeping curve at the Dragon. One of my favorite photos of my car by the way.

Clifford, I don't think anybody is really criticizing you for doing it (well not most everyone anyway) It's just that I believe you are probably one of the first to space your wheel out that much, and it's getting a lot of attention, and comments. Everybody is entitled to their own opinion, and on a forum you're going to get them, like it or not, so don't take it personal.
At the going rate of around $300 per tire, many of us just can't afford to do anything to cause premature wear, and I think many of us are just thinking about that aspect of it.
As somebody pointed out, one of the Crossfires weak points is understeer, and you may have created a little more in your car. You changed the factory's suspension geometry so there will probably be +'s and -'s in your cars handling.
Since the wheel will actually tip in at the top as it gets pushed up inside the wheel well of your 1/4 panel, there is the possibility it will clear the lip of the panel. But just going by the photo that you posted, it looks dangerously close. Nobody wants it too cause you any body damage, that's all.
In the end, it's your car, and you're making it you're own by doing what ever you want to with it, and that's what it's all about.
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned or not, but I believe in some states, the tire can not exceed the opening of the fender, so you may want to check your states regulations on that. But like me, our state says we NEED a front plate, and I just can't bring myself to do it. But I know eventually it will catch up to me.
Just enjoy your car, be safe, and enjoy this forum for the invaluable source of information, and friendship it offers.