Hi all, I need some advice.

A few days ago I am driving down the frontage road of the local toll road and coming to an intersection, I push the clutch in and it feels weird, I can't shift out of gear and it feels like the clutch wont disengage.

I can shift through all the gears just fine if the engine is not running. I figured its the clutch and take it to my local shop. About an hour later he calls and says its not the clutch it's the transmission and they don't work on transmissions there.

So I limp it back home, basically having to shut off the car put it in gear and start it (clutch in of course). But when I start it it feels like the clutch is at least partially engaged as the car begins to move. As I release the clutch it rolls away like there's no issue. But once up to speed clutch does no good, I have to get the RPMs/MPH just right at the correct speed to force the gear change.And that doesn't work all the time.

Flushed transmission, oil was clear, gold, refilled with syn 5w20, no change in performance.Some metal sludge on the drain plug magnet.

What is it? Clutch, Transmission, Both?

Thanks

 

Sounds like the throw out bearing. It may be hydraulic actuated one. I have never looked at a stick crossfire dut it will have a resouviour to fill if it is hyduralic actuated.

 

http://homepage.mac.com/gregmeach/XF...r_6-Clutch.pdf

Check fluid. Look for fork movement. Cracked pressure plate or spring.

 

Well, untill the gear box is removed you won't know for sure.
Several posibilities.....
If your transmission/gearbox isnt making any scary noises I think its probably fine.

Most likely one of the following...
If these machines are fitted with a dual mass flywheel, the springs may have failed and the pressure plate part of the flywheel may have become partially engaged with the clutch disk..... if this was this dire, you would possibly notice a vibration with the flywheel running out of true & eccentrically....

MOST LIKELY issue is a failed slave clutch release. I m guessing that the XF has a hydraulic slave realease breaing and if so, a seal failure will cause this.
Its possible for the seal to not leak flud, but to draw air similar to the current FORD Focus & Mondeo's.
If you open seperate the engine and box, and you have a dual mass flywheel, change it as well as the clutch disk and the release bearing mechanism as a whole package.
You will usually get a guarantee on the parts from a garage for the whole package for miles or months after.

I doubt its a g'Box issues..... sounds like clutch release issues to me.

Either way, what ever sub part is at fault, if you've got it in bits, change the lot.

Regards
Grant B

feel free to ring if you want to mail me privately for a number.
Ive never seen the insides of the XF clutch mechanism, but it does sound like this is most likely

 

Thanks guys, took it to transmission place, they confirmed it was the clutch. Awaiting estimate.

 

How much do you guys think I am looking at (from the shop)? Whats a decent price for this kind of job, parts/labor?

Does anyone here have any experience doing a clutch replacement? I read the service manual steps. Basically remove prop shaft, remove transmission, change clutch.

I have done a timing belt, water pump, power steering pump, A/C compressor and catalytic converter on a 3000GT. If the guy comes back with a $3,000 estimate could I tackle this? At least thats what the dealer quoted me.

Seems like a clutch kit online with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder, release bearing, pilot bushing, alignment tool, etc. for about $650-$850.
Is this something I'll be able to do without special adjustment tools/computer gear to get the transmission working/shifting/aligned?

Thanks

 

In the UK, the clutch parts are about £250 ish, and guessing about £230 for the time.
As the XF is a rear wheel drive vehicle, the job is a lot easier and faster, less complicated and less messy.

Suggest you change ALL the clutch parts - release, bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate, and if the fly wheel is a dual mass, change that too !
GB

 

Ok, so the minimum from the transmission place says if its just disc/pressure plate is $2400 estimated. $5500 for all the clutch components. Anyone in the Dallas area wanna buy a Crossfire with 85K miles and a bad clutch?

If I buy 3rd party parts I am looking at new pressure plate, clutch disc, Release Bearing/Slave cylinder, Pilot bearing, (some kits say pilot bushing) ~ $700

Its a 2004 so probably a new Dual mass flywheel? or can I just swap with a regular flywheel? Anyway to tell without taking it apart?
I cant even find a listing anywhere for a Dual Mass Flywheel for a crossfire.

Anyone know of an online visual clutch replacement guide? Honestly I am up for this challenge if the price is right and I can replace all the components without any expensive tools, calibration gear. If you guys can advise I can take photos of all the steps and make a guide.

This is assuming the wife says "Sure you can use my car for a month while you risk your life under our expensive car learning how to install parts you got from Ebay in hopes it wont destroy the transmission once you're done."

Any takers?

 

My money says you can handle this job in a weekend.

 

Cheers Mike,

What kind of flywheel options do I have? Assuming mine is shot. I cant seem to find a flywheel anywhere.

Oh, I just found this gem in the service manual.
Also seem to need "Special Tool 9102 Flywheel Locking Tool"

Thanks

 

I think somebody on here bought the entire cabinet of the special tools. They may be willing to rent the special tool to you. Other wise well I'm sure you can improvise.

 

I don(t know how to do links, sorry. I just went to eBay and did a quick seach on miller tools and I think your tool runs about $50.00. Not bad.

 

From the PDF:

"The clutch release bearing is integrated with the clutch slave cylinder for smooth operation. By eliminating the clutch release fork, less effort is required to release the clutch."

So I am assuming there will be no fork to check?

 

So the shopping list includes:

Clutch Kit from LUK inc (part#: 11-040) via ebay ~ $540
Wrong Part, does not fit -> Dual Mass Flywheel from LUK inc (part#: DMF081) via Carolina Clutch and Performance ~ $600
Flywheel locking tool from Miller tools (part#: 9102) via Ebay ~ $27
Transmission Lift from Central Hydraulics via Harbor Frieght with 20% off coupon ~ $65
3/8" Air Ratchet from Central Pneumatic via Harbor Frieght ~ $20
1/4" and 3/8" E-Socket Set from Pittsburgh Tools via Harbor Freight ~ $10 on sale

So for about $1280 I can get all new parts and do this myself versus selling the car or paying $5500 to dealer/transmission shop.

 

Here is the order of operations I plan on following (all from the service manual formatted for sanity) ...

First task: Remove Exhaust
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the oxygen sensor harness connectors
3. Support the exhaust system
4. Remove the bolts at the left and right side exhaust manifold flanges
5. Remove the center exhaust flange bolts
6. Remove the left and right side exhaust pipes from the vehicle
7. Remove the bolts at the right side exhaust pipe flange.

Part 2, Remove the propeller shaft
3. Remove the center exhaust heat shield nuts and the center heat shield.
4. Remove the rear transmission tunnel support bracket bolts and the bracket.
5. Support the transmission with a jack stand.
6. Remove the transmission mount bolts.
7. Remove the transmission crossmember bolts.
8. Remove the transmission crossmember from the vehicle.
9. Remove the three rear propeller shaft bolts from the rear axle pinion flange.
10. Remove the rear propeller shaft from the rear axle pinion flange.
11. Remove the three front propeller shaft bolts from the transmission output flange.
12. Remove the front propeller shaft from the transmission output flange.
13. Remove the center bearing bracket bolts.
14. Carefully remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle.

Part 3, Remove the transmission
4. Support the transmission with a jack.
5. Remove the rear transmission mount bolts and the rear crossmember bolts.
5a. Remove the rear transmission mount together, with the crossmember, from the vehicle.
6. Disconnect the backup lamp switch harness connector.
7. Disconnect the pressure line at the clutch slave cylinder.
7a. Remove the retaining bolt and the pressure line from the transmission.
8. Disconnect the reverse lockout cable by turning the llocking nut counter clockwise.
8a. Remove the cable end from the ball stud and position the cable aside.
9. Disconnect the shift rod from the ball stud. Position the shift rod aside.
10. Disconnect the ground cable (1) at the transmission.
11. Remove the transmission to engine retaining bolts.
12. Lower the transmission down and out of vehicle

Part 4, The clutch cover and disc
Note: Remove clutch cover bolts 1 to 1 1/2 turns at a time.
2. Loosen the bolts on the clutch cover.
3. Mark the relation of the clutch cover to the flywheel.
4. Remove the bolts on the clutch cover.
5. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.

Part 5, Remove slave cylinder/release bearing
2. Remove the clutch slave cylinder/release bearing bolts.
3. Remove the clutch slave cylinder/release bearing and plastic washer from transmission bell housing.
4. Inspect the clutch slave cylinder/release bearing for signs of leakage and wear.
5. Replace all worn parts as necessary.

Part 6, Remove Flywheel
2. Install Special Tool 9102 Flywheel. Locking Tool.
3. Remove and discard the flywheel bolts.
4. Remove the flywheel spacer and the flywheel.
5. Inspect the flywheel for wear or cracking.
6. Inspect the starter ring gear for wear and missing teeth.

Let me know if I am missing anything, please. Ready to start wrenching

Thanks

 

Be sure to get and use a clutch realignment tool when you install the clutch. it is used to align the pilot beatring in the end of the crankshaft with the center of the transmission in put shaft. it will resemble the input shaft on the transmission (have the same splines and a male diameter to slip fit the pilot bushing diameter). You should not toghten the pressure plate to the fly wheel until you have it alligned properly. If you do you will probably not be able to get the input shaft inserted all the way in. iF this was a Ford or Chevy i would definitly advise you take it apart and see what you need before you buy parts. You may only need the trrow out bearing. I have never seen one on a crossfire but on a Quartermaster racing clutch set up it resembles a dounout that the transmissino input shaft goes thru. It expands when hydraulic pressue is applied and pushes against the pressure plate alowing the clutch disl to move at the same speed as the transmission input shaft.

 

Roger that.

I'm gonna start breaking it down before I order anything.

I'll take some pics along the way.

-Thanks

 

Am I mis-understanding.. or is this saying trailer it to your nearest dealer with 3-5 hundred in your pocket?

Definately check the flywheel to make sure you have - need to replace it...

 

Thanks for keeping us in the loop. I would like to put a little firmer cluch in mine when it is time and I have no doubt this info you will share will be invaluable

 

Ok, I am at Step 4 of my evil plan. You can see the photos here...

Flickr Photo Set - Clutch Work 01

I'm not going to embed them all here just yet till I get better organized.

The small jack stands aren't at their full height but I'm not sure I trust them up that high. So I cant move the transmission out from under the car. I can only back it out about a foot. But it looks like enough to work on the clutch.

Removed the clutch cover and disc. Clutch cover fingers look blued from heat, not sure if that's normal but also about 4-5 of them look bent inwards. Now that could be from the great job I did removing the transmission, had to push it back together due to shifter hinge pin (not mentioned in service manual). Last pic in the set worries me a bit as the bolts don't line up with the holes in the flywheel plate thingy?

Anyone see anything else out of the ordinary I should worry about? Anyway I can test the release bearing/slave cylinder somehow to tell if it's ok?
Honestly if you guys told me all the parts were worn out or looked brand new I wouldn't know the difference.

This is as far as I can go without special part 9102 to remove flywheel.

Thanks