I guess yours dried up over time, the plate slides up and down a bit on the splined portion of the shaft so you do need it. Not too much or it will get thrown onto the friction pads.

If you are using the old flywheel then you should scuff it up a bit with emery cloth. You can buy the disks and the spindle they run on in a hand drill quite cheaply <$20. They are made for disk brakes.

Running a dial indicator over it should be done as well, just in case it is badly warped.

 

Once i get all the bits to start putting everything back together should all the bolts get Loctite? Or is the torque meant to hold them against vibration, etc?

 

I took a gamble on a local salvage yard that had a flywheel online. Low Miles, Grade A condition. Umm, not so much... But to be honest if it wasn't for the rust it'd be a bargain. If you look at the pressure plate surface it looks like it's never been used.

They had no problems taking it back. "Just send it back we'll refund your money"

Still waiting on RMA from Carolina to send back brand new untouched flywheel.

Although good news is my bolts should arrive tomorrow morning. Gonna put everything back together using old flywheel, I think it will be fine.

After experiencing the dampened play in the LUK DMF081 vs. my Flywheel I'm not sure why they chose to use dual mass flywheels at all. Even by hand turning the flywheels they seem to "bottom out" rather easily. I'm no body builder, although my mousing arm is still pumped from editing photos, but it seems the torque these flywheels must be under would warrant much heavier springs.

But my list of auto repairs is thin at best so WTH do I know?

 

Well it's done. Seems to be working great.

This was by far the biggest auto DIY auto job I've done. But I have done some relatively major work to my stepsons 3000GT, Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, power steering pump, alternator, A/c compressor. That being said I have never done any kind of bleeding, brakes, clutch or otherwise and was a bit clueless in that dept.

Couple of issues I ran into:
1. LUK RepKit - the replacement slave cylinder/release bearing wouldn't retract when I pushed on it until I really gave it some weight, seemed like it came over extended, as if the seal had prolapsed and I had to push it back into working order.I dont mean the green outer cover, that's just for protection. I mean the actually cylinder hydraulic seal. Also it shifts around off center when pushed. Apparently its "self centering" no idea but it's doing ok so far.

2. When trying to bleed the slave I found some online guide for hydraulic clutches but they didn't translate that well to the Crossfire. I pressed in the slave cylinder by hand before hooking up the line then released it to "suck" up some fluid since it was empty. Then I had my helper step on the clutch, big mistake. The slave cylinder overextended again and fluid shot out everywhere. The steps I ended up using were to open valve push in slave and hold, have helper slowly push in pedal, close valve. release pedal and pull clutch up.

3. I had to adjust the reverse lockout cable to get it to shift into first, I inadvertently on purpose released the adjustment lock thingy when it when I was unhooking the transmission. I kinda just guessed at this. Iin the service manual it stated some procedures and a special tool... I just eyeballed it. Otherwise there would have been a bunch more work/waiting/removing console bits and installing special tool just to move a little cable with a locking mechanism. It only has about an inch of play I figured I couldn't be too far off.

4. I had never heard of "scuffing rotors" and the idea of purposely sanding a new part or even an old one that was previously working seemed kinda weird to me. But I did it anyway, and it all sounds good, no weird noises, or slipping.

5. Pressure plate installation ignorance issues. If you look at the new clutch cover you'll see these 3 springs in a compressed position. When you place the cover on the flywheel with the disc in between(using alignment tool to center disc) there will be about 1/2 inch or so between the cover and the flywheel. You have to tighten each bolt a half turn to a full turn at a time for all the bolts. This applies pressure to the plate and the fingers slowly retract. At this point i dont think the springs released yet. So i just bolted up the transmission same as the clutch cover, slowly tightening bolts all the way around. I assume the springs release at this point or when you first apply pressure to the pedal to release the clutch.

6. Getting the exhuast back on was a pain, i suggest bolting up to the headers before doing the rear couple. I did it backwards, it barely worked. Ended up using transmission lift to get it in place that worked well.

7. More to come

 

Congratulations and thanks again for the info. I think this is going to be GOLD when I go to do mine down the road...

 

Great job, now comes the hard part, writing the "How to" for the forum.

The scuffing is just to break up the concentric lines on the flywheel and get rid of some of the glaze.

Rotors are ground these days, gone are the days when you purchased rotors and then had them turned before fitting them on the car. You have a hard time finding one of those lathes for rotors these days.

 

I'm not really sure how to do a "how to" post?

Is there a sticky for doing a how to?

 

Rumor has it 180 is pretty good at gathering information and pictures and putting it all into a PDF file.. just a rumor I caught.. LOL

 

Well I can do a PDF file! But is that the best way? Or is it more accepted by the forum gods to do a proper New Topic in the tech folder?

Thx

 

I think you have done a great job so far. Just put it altogether step by step in a single post and you are done, but I am not sure how many pics you can add in one post these days. So maybe you should do it as a text document and then post it as a PDF file. That is the easiest way and you can edit it at will.

You have great info so it should not be lost.

 

"How To" Posted
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-04-coupe.html

 

And you did a GREAT JOB of showing this 'HOW-TO' for those with stick shifters! Big ole pat-on-the-back to you for this very informative tutorial.

 

The "sand the flywheel" is to de-glaze it.
Note in the pilot bearing removal : If you don't have an "internal puller", another method I have used is to find a wooden dowel ( or make one ) that fits thru the pilot bearing. Fill the back of the bearing with grease from a grease gun, then insert the dowel and give it a good whack - the bearing should pop right out. ( clean up the greasy mess, wash your face and change your shirt )

 

Well done job. Of course I read this to late and my Mechanic ordered the wrong flywheel but that was his problem. How did you go about resetting the PCM control module adaptation? I will pick my XF up tomorrow.

 

I didn't change the flywheel I just put the old one back on as it still had life left in it.

My assumption was since i didn't swap it out I didn't need to do anything with the PCM... so I didn't.

Everything seems to be working just fine still. I had some bolts loosen on the exhaust to muffler couple... either that or I failed to tighten them. But other than that no problems.

 

Well I have my XF back and everything is fine. So I will run it like it is and when I am near some dealer Ill ask them. I think it will be just the ECU learning something new.

 

Hi. how did you detach the clutch pressure pipe that connects to the bellhousing.