Also can anyone look at the above photo set and tell if its a dual mass flywheel?

 

I have seen a number of regular flywheels and this does not look anything like regular to me.

 

Yea i kinda figured it was a dual mass. The plate has a centimeter of rotational play, the teeth dont move but the plate shifts a bit. Is this normal or does that mean the springs in the flywheel are shot?

So my next step is to insert special tool 9201 and remove flywheel for inspection. Once i recieve it.

Thanks

 

Dual mass flywheels have the springs in the flywheel, the simple clutch has the springs in the clutch plate. These are dual mass. The plate movement should be no trouble, that will allow the holes and bolts to line up.

Additional info.
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/dual-mass-flywheels/

LUK clutch failure diagnosis
http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedi...ose_pkw_en.pdf

 

Dual Mass Flywheel....

In most UK vehicles these seam to be good for 70,000 miles or so.... treated gently....

Personally for the extra couple of hundred £££ I'd change the lot if the vehicle is in bits...
ie flywheel, plate, clutch disk and release bearing as a job lot.......

If the flywheel develops too much slop it will give a clunk on engaging load and shock the gearbox.
If the fly wheel develops lateral slop it can run off centre and load the crankshaft rear bearing and crank shaft itself significantly....
this will cause you a vibration when rev up-down and serious engine damage is a risk, let alone gearbox input shaft and primary bearings......

Generally, as you say, a cm of rotational freeplay is acceptable, and they arrive NEW with this.
If you have 50k + miles on the clock and are spliting the engine/box, Personally, cash permitting, I'd change the lot for peace of mind.

Have a great day.

Grant

 

I tend to agree that a complete replacement is the best here. I am not sure if the surfaces on these can be refaced as some cannot be redone. There maybe another option and that is to replace the expensive dual mass flywheel with a Valeo conversion kit to a solid flywheel and clutch. Check to see if a conversion is available, they are much cheaper.
Valeo Clutches » Products » Clutch Kits » Clutch Conversion Kits :: Solid Flywheel Conversion :: Valeo Clutches
http://www.amsautomotive.com/Spotlights/TB218.pdf
http://www.valeoservice.com/data/mas...473BA636D2.pdf

 

It appears that some clutch kits come with the required tools for alignment.

 

Pulled trigger on these this morning...

Clutch Kit from LUK inc (part#: 11-040) via ebay ~ $540
Dual Mass Flywheel from LUK inc (part#: DMF081) via Carolina Clutch and Performance ~ $600
Flywheel locking tool from Miller tools (part#: 9102) via Ebay ~ $27

Clutch kit comes with alignment tool but not locking tool for removal/install.

 

Added 3 new Pics. Release Bearing/Slave Cylinder related. I cleaned it off a bit.

Click here for Pics

Seems like there could have been air in the slave cylinder because not much fluid came out but some leaked out once I disconnected the line. Also I don't think the fluid fills the green boot, it just protects the spring. No signs of leaking or breakage that I can tell.

So far the only thing that stands out as obviously wrong are the bent fingers on the clutch cover.

 

I can only guess but the bent fingers must have come up against a lot of force and bent in the process as the other fingers went through their normal levering movement, something seized somewhere, jammed and broken springs?

Great job you are doing, this is a first for a well detailed clutch repair. Write it up and it must become a sticky.

 

Also just incase anyone else is looking to do this the Luk clutch kit can be found cheaper here $370 04 2004 Chrysler Crossfire Clutch Kit - Clutch - LUK, Sachs - PartsGeek

As for the flywheel i'm not sure if the one i ordered will work or not, it looks different. Its speced for a manual 2003 slk 320.

 

Bent diaphragm spring fingers can indicate the spring is broken.

 

Thanks to arejohn, I looked a little closer inside the clutch cover and noticed the ring that the fingers are attached to has broke. So the fingers aren't really bent they actually spiral in height starting from one side of the break around to the other.

No idea what this would be called.
New pic here -> Broken Pressure Plate Diaphragm? in clutch cover. Or is this referred to as the spring?

I take this to mean that the clutch would always be partially engaged due to the fact that even when the clutch pedal is pressed the broken part isn't disengaging.

Could this be the whole problem?

 

Nothing else in your pic's looks broken. Look closly for heat damage and/or scoring of the fly wheel. it should look as good (or better) than a brajke rotor. Be sure to align the clutch disc wwith the pilot berring and pre bleed the throw out bearing before you re-assemble.

 

Here is a new pic of the flywheel full res cropped.
Flywheel Pic

Other than the heat/friction marks on the plate surface it seems in good shape. There is zero lateral movement and just the 1 cm of rotational play before it hits the springs. Clockwise it it seems to be springy once it hits resistance, counterclockwise its pretty firm, not sure if thats normal. (although I may have reversed those)

Only reason I am hesitant to swap the flywheel is I'm not sure the one I purchased will work DMF081 Dual-mass Flywheel if you click the link "DMF081" you can see a couple of photos and it's somewhat visually different from the one on my coupe. (alignment pins and bolt hole positions) There are several holes on the rim of the clutch cover for alignment though so it still may fit to the pins, won't really know until it arrives.

 

The light blue coleration indicates a polished cast steele surface has reached 700 degrease, the dark blue 650, the dark straw 600 and the light straw less. light straw is the first color you see when you heat cast steele. If it is not rough I would leave it on. Does the throw out bearing feel rough when you load it lightly by hand and turn it?

 

I saw the broken diaphram on a Volvo and Fiat X1/9. Could not shift and the clutch felt very week. If this is your first big auto job, I am impressed. Thanks for the pictures and regular feedback.

 

Is the throw out the same thing as the release bearing on the hydraulic slave cylinder? If so, it's really smooth no catching or noise. No play from side to side seems solid. Its apparent when you rotate it that the grease is still intact due to a fluid movement. I would say its in good condition.

Release Bearing Pic

 

Thanks man! That was the first real breakthrough I had as to what was causing this whole mess. I hope to do a "How to" post once I get everything fixed and sorted.

 

After further inspection and playing a bit with the clutch cover I discovered the diaphragm ring expanded after it broke causing it to lock into an engaged position. In the service manual it mentions reusing the clutch cover by using a piece of pipe or old release bearing to push on the fingers of the diaphragm. This would relieve the pressure and retract the plate but mine wont budge. I assume because now that the diameter of the diaphragm is larger it's either caught on some part of the cover or it's thrown the fulcrum of the leverage off so much it's too hard to push in.

Parts should start arriving Tuesday. Still unsure if I should replace the flywheel. I guess I'll play with it once it arrives and see if the cover disc and flywheel mate up.

As for the pilot bearing, included in the clutch kit, does that go in the center of the flywheel? Service manual has no diagrams for the following section.

That for real? I should "sand" the flywheel? Or is that for reusing the old one?