Hello,

I was at some traffic lights (US: stop light) today when my (automatic transmission) 2004 Chrysler Crossfire engine cut out (stopped), all warning lights came on and stayed on and the steering wheel locked. I put the gear stick (US: shift lever) back into park position, put the handbrake on, turned the key to the off position and then tried to start the car. This would just illuminate all of the warning lights again but the engine would not start and the startup motor would not whirr. I got my fiancee clear of the car, phoned breakdown recovery, phoned the traffic police and started stopping traffic so lorries (US: trucks) and buses could get round my car. Someone came along about 10 minutes later to help me push the car out of the middle of the road, but when I got in the car at that point I tried starting it and it worked perfectly. I felt like a bit of an idiot (US: buffoon), but was nevertheless very relieved.

I have read that it could be a problem with the steering wheel column pin, but would be interested in your views before I start shelling out more money on this car, particularly if you have had the same problem. The problem has happened once (today), but is worrying.

Any idea what the problem is with the car?

For information:- I had a similar (but not the same) problem on the car quite recently, when the engine cut out at the traffic lights (US: stop lights), but the car would restart and the steering wheel was not locked. I had the crank shaft position sensor replaced, so it is not that.

Thank you, in advance, for any comments.

Grant.

 

Sounds like the mystery no start issue, the RCM has bad solder joints? Lots of help with this one do a search on mystery no start or RCM. My $0.02 cents worth.

 

Chances are, that the steering column didn't lock, just nearly impossible to turn without the engine running. RCM sounds about right to me for needing repair. CPS could do the same thing, but usually triggers a CEL.

Keep us updated. James

 

Thanks Chaps. Yes, that RCM "mystery no start" thread seems to describe the problem that I experienced reasonably accurately. I'll get the soldering done.

Something in one of the threads by tighed1 on the RCM, which I found as a result of GraphiteGhost's post, made me recollect something about when the engine cut out on my car. In particular, I remember having one of my OCD moments and wondering whether the satnav was fully pressed into the cigarette lighter. I think I disconnected the satnav from the cigarette lighter and reconnected it whilst at the traffic lights in order to be sure that it was properly pushed in. I wonder if the cigarette lighter goes to the same circuit board, such that vibration to that circuit board caused by me disconnecting and reconnecting my satnav caused the engine to cut out due to the deteriorated solder points on the RCM!!

Anyway, thanks for your help GraphiteGhost and James 1549. Very much appreciated.

Grant.

 

just use a magnifying glass to be sure to get the joints soldered correctly. You should do fine....and yes, it has to be embarrassing especially after they push you to side of the road....lol...

 

Since you didnt get any starter motor cranking is is not a bad CPS... the engine cranks with the CPS failure but just wont start....agree that the RCM sounds like the culprit..

 

The steering wheel will turn less than an inch and hits the stops if the lock kicks in and it will turn much more than this with no defined limit if the engine has quit.

When you turn it to the ON position only, can you hear the fuel pump under the car hum for a second or so? If it will start its OK at that moment but when the car fails to start the RCM solder weakness may be the problem if no hum is heard.

 

You are right, I missed that part. James

 

Hello All,

I did not fancy doing the job myself, so took the car in to Willow Motor Works (in Mitcham, Surrey, UK, just outside London) and asked them to follow the instructions put together by tighed1 on the RCM. The chap there said that the circuit board joints looked OK on my car, but that he soldered them anyway to be sure. He said, however, that there were bad connections to the multiplug wiring which he has cleaned and re-soldered. Hopefully that will sort it, but I promise to write back on this forum if the car does conk out or fail to start again.

For anyone living in London in the UK, the total charge by Willow Motor Works was £79 including VAT.

The chap also informed me that my car is mis-firing, so I guess that will be more expense when I ask someone to look into it when I get the car serviced in January.

Thanks for everyone's comments.

Grant.

 

Although I haven't experienced this problem with my '04 Crossfire coupe, it did happen to my '02 Town & Country minivan. I removed the PDM (power distribution module - also conventionally known as the fuse box), throoughly cleaned all the gang connectors (both on the wire harness and PDM side), checked for corrosion, broken wires, bad connectors etc, and then cleaned the connections and applied dielectric grease before reassembly. This solved the problem. With today's electronically controlled drivetrains, the majority of driveability problems can be traced to bad/loose electrical connections, and sometimes (but seldom) corroded wires. The components themsevles seldom go bad. Since your Crossfire is approaching it's eigth birthday, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do this. I've already done it on mine.

 

The joints will not look bad to the naked eye. If he didn't look thru a magnifying glass, he will not see the breaks...Hope it works out...Miss firing... I doubt it, you would notice that...pretty obvious in a 6 cylinder car...as long as you were happy...