Curious idea but, no. I will likely stay original with the NA if I can. I like the lightweight nimbleness of the high torque six.

I am reminded of the XKE and XJS Jags with V12's or Inline Sixes.

The inline six was a far better handling car and much more reliable than the self destructing, rather incindery, V12's. I drove both in the 70's and 80's as my business partner was a Jag fanatic and a collector. He still has a fleet of them.

I like the six in our car. So if I can, I'm staying there. I love telling losers at the stop light, "you just got you butt kicked by a six."

Now, if Allstate insists on going total, I'm open to suggestions.


franc

 

Franc, sad to hear. That's one reason I stay high and dry with my CAI. Here's something you may want to check out
Chrysler Crossfire PArts CAR

Don't know if it has an engine or not.


John P
FTC

 

Franc ... met you down at the CAA and you were most hospitable in opening your factory for us. We all appreciated that and enjoyed your hospitality. Now..to the point.
About 12 yrs ago I owned and lived aboard a 40 ft trawler style boat for 3 yrs, and during that time the sea water exchanger sprung a leak and hydrolocked the diesel engine. I had a diesel mechanic check it out and after "pickeling" the engine with WD40, and installing a new exchanger, engine was fine. I don't know about our 6 cyl, but you might try considering this ....
1) see if you can hand crank the engine to see if its not totally locked up. If it is forget the rest because then I don't know....
2) remove the heads and drain the oil
3) pour WD40 into the cylinders and work the cylinders by hand cranking the engine letting the WD40 displace water. This might have to be done numerous times over a course of a few days, not letting the cylinders dry out. I used almost a gallon of WD40 over 2 weeks while my part was being shipped. You may not have to do it for that long.
4) Drain the oil pan occasionally of the collected "mixture"
5) After sufficient "pickeling" (take a guess on what is sufficient), fill with oil and crank engine, preferably without starting, or by hand, to disperse the oil back to the cylinders
6) refill engine with oil and drain again after cranking again
7) refill engine again with oil and start engine and pray.....

Like I said this got my diesel engine back like new, and I'm sure there are people here on the forum that will either put a thumbs down on this, or say it could be a good try to save the engine. Just my $.02

Good luck ..... Howard

edit.... of course at some point you have to replace the heads .... DUH

 

I;m with you on that , I also like the six and the way it move;s me , sounds like a song i know .

 

Well, I appreciate the long and detailed post. I will try things myself once the dealer mechanics in Nashville and Allstate get done haggling over what the problem really is with the engine.

What is weird is that it runs. it just has no torque. One cylinder is dead and one is intermittent. Frankly it sounds more like a plugged cat converter than anything.
Except that I have two funky cylinders. #3 has no compression.

It all seemed to clear when I was driving it to the dealer. But then lost power. It ran but no torque.

They get into the engine next week and I will be there to see.

Then I will decide what to do.

I think at worst I bent a rod or perhaps flattened a cam. Dropped a valve?

These aren't interference engines so a dropped valve wouldn't ruin the engine but could cause these symptoms.

Unless the block is damaged, I will rebuild it.

Again, I still have questions about hydro lock as the engine ran fine for more than an hour after the rain. I have driven in worse weather without issues and besides, I have over 20k on this CAI since I solved the insignificant "water in the intake" problem back in 2008.

It will be a saga. Just want to get it done before the fall Dragon.


franc

 

Pat, when I was putting together my CAI, I thought long and hard about putting the filters up front like the NW. I LOVE the look, especially with the aftermarket mesh grille, but the more I thought about it, I didn't like the idea of trying to suck air through something wet everytime it rains (mine is a DD). We all know the flow rate goes in the toilet when these things get wet, hell they even sell a cover for them for this reason:

K&N DryCharger filter cover

All things considered, I am not sure if Franc's are set up this way, but when I see the filters RIGHT behind the grill, it makes me worry....

 

My single K&N Cone is one inch above the floor of the right fender well box. (Where the SRT Johnson pump is located)
Unless the hatch door is missing, very little water enters this box, if at all. I have driven thru deep puddles with no issues since I lifted the filter off the floor of the wellbox.

After the filter is a 3.0" inch pipe, a 90 elbow and then a 16 inch rise to the top of my engine bay. To bring a columm of water up that 3.0" pipe would require that my intake is virtualy submerged. It then goes horizontal for 24 inches before entering the MAF module.
So while an occasional wispy spurt of spray is possible into the MAS unit, a full load is unlikely.

Also, during the original designing, when I did have some water in the intake, I got an engine light and some roughness from the engine. The MAS was detecting wrong because it was "damp" not flooded. But nothing like this.

I always felt that water taken in the intake would quash the engine in a heartbeat. So how did this happen an hour later some 80 miles away from the water I encountered?

Personaly, I think the Chrysler Certified Mechanic Technichian saw the custom low level intake CAI and presumed.

We'll see when we get inside!

 

John this is somthing i have look over too , with all rain that we have had this year i;m not sure about a CAI in front of the Grill . In case of Franc crossfire , running in the rain and nothing happen untill he turn it off , Things went funky on you win you turn the car on , water set up in the motor all night, not good , I don;t know about trying to fix it if trashed , you can pick up motors on ebay 2 or 3 grand and add few things to them But ! hope all work out for ya franc ,

 

Thanks RUSH.

Take care of that Newport man. Those late 60's Mopars are special. That one you have is one of my favorites.


franc

 

sorry to hear about this Franc....doesn't sound like hydro lock to me at all...it ran too long for that to have happened...it might have let water in, causing damage as you drove, but not hydro lock...good luck either way my friend....I know you will save it...

 

I just got off the phone with the service manager in Nashville.
It was not Hydro lock.

YES!

A valve dropped on cylinder three and caused the timing to shift slightly. Explains all symptoms.

I believe I called it last week when I posted.

Post #25
"These aren't interference engines so a dropped valve wouldn't ruin the engine but could cause these symptoms."


Other than the bent/stuck valve no damage to the engine.

They are going to replace all the valves and guides, seals and gaskets involved, and hopefully I will have essentialy a top overhauled original engine and my Crossie back in a few weeks.

In time for the Gateway trip to Merimac Caverns and the Dragon.

Hurray!

soon to again be,

THE

roadster with a stick

 

Glad to hear this story is going to have a happy ending. It would have saddened me to see the mighty Franc playing copilot at the dragon.

 

That's great news Franc.

 

Good news!!!!! see you in Oct.

 

So did H2O cause the problem or was it totally unrelated?

 

As I have not seen the parts myself, I don't really know.

If the insurance adjuster says it is water related, I'm not arguing with him. Not because I would be dishonest but my analysis would be and Opinion.

Many will tell you, my opinion ain't worth much.

However, between you guys and me, I seriously doubt water did it.



roadster with a stick

 

Franc,

If I remember correctly, the MB that self-destructed on MB-World traced its initial failure back to a dropped valve.

Only difference was, this one DID hit the piston. BLAMMO.

Any chance you will be able to inspect the old valve?

Odd that you would both drop a valve, with the huge spread in mileage (his had over 100K)

Cheers

 

What RPM level was your rev-limiter reset to?

 

6300 in first , 2nd and third.
5800 in 4th fifth and sixth

I assure you I was in 5th or 6th during most ofmy trip through the rain.

As I came off I-65 in Franklin TN I did downshift the very long gentle ramp. Drove one block to the Hotel. I raced no one on that short trip.

That said, I have occasionaly hit the rev limit of 6300 during street manouveres. But I don't drag race, on or off the street.


roadster with a stick

 

I was just looking to see if anyone had posted on this. I'm thinking it would be a good and fairly inexpensive investment being in the front behind the grill and my XF being a daily except in severe weather.


Glad they found the problem Franc, see you soon!