I just went out to start my car and I am not getting any contact when I put key in ignition--car seems to be dead. I tried both key fobs and neither of them work. Unable to lock doors or set alarm.. Could car be in locked down mode. Could it be a dead battery. Sorry to ask for help but I am desparate. Any idea what it could be.

 

What year car? Does it have the "original battery"? Did you buy it new?

 

It's a 2007 roadster had 10,400 miles on it when I bought it last July and now has 11,400. I drove the car last Saturday and that was the last time. When I insert the key it moves to each position but seems to be dead nothing happens. Could it be the ignition switch problem that I read about (tumblers) or maybe the battery. Battery is almot 3 years old since and my warranty runs out on Monday.

 

This happened to me on my N/A about 18 months ago. About two weeks before totally shutdown, the alarm went off for no reason. I disconnected the battery and all was fine, or so I thought. Having owned a repair shop, I should have known better, but I am not sure that a tech would have been able to find the problem because for the next two or three weeks all was fine. I did have reservations when I started my car, but with time that passed.

I went into the store loaded up with groceries, and when I TRIED to start the car---nothing. Called a tow truck and got on here. Found out about the SCIRM (?) module in the trunk. Also found out about the fact that you have only 30 attempts before the computer TOTAL cuts out. I told the dealer what I had found, even showed them my ASE certs (Master Tech) because when I owned my shop. I had many customers that did not KNOW about modern cars, but boy, they thought that they did. They told me it was the key. I said no way---they said yes. I said no. I got the service manager involved and he sided with his tech. I said "put your money where your mouth is!!! I will pay your $428.00, but that is all I will pay---you have miss diagnosed the car." He took the bet. Two days later, I called and it was NOT the key. They said it was the SCIRM. I went down and TOLD them about the 30 times with the computer. They did not listen and cooked it. I ended up getting a NEW computer, SCIRM, and key. I signed papers saying the computer was bad under the emissions 8/80 warranty, but I only paid the $428.00.

So do your research on here and the MB forum---both helped me. My problem was more common with leaking with roadsters, but I had it with a coupe. GOOD NEWS is that it was fixed! Good luck and do not let them run up a bill. If they say 'X" will fix it----hold them to it. My told bill would have been $1600 so said the service writer.

Start with the basics FIRST---make sure that you have a good battery and connections. Both in the car and the key. Jimmy

Edit---I reread and saw both keys were tried. A three year old battery should be fine, but start there. Hook up another car with known good bat and alt. If still nothing, tow it to a dealer, so that you can show with the tow receipt that the problem happened BEFORE the warranty was out.

Edit#2---The reason that I KNEW it was not that key was I would disconnect that battery and the key would turn over the motor 3 times and then nothing. Tried again, disconnected the battery for 20-30 seconds, and the same thing---3 times and then nothing. That's how I knew it was not the key. How did my key KNOW that I disconnected the battery? It could not! It had to be in the car---It was. Try the above. Disconnect the battery and see if you get any respond.

 

Thanks for the help. I will have AAA come tomorrow and give me a jump. I tried jiggling the shift in Park but that didn't help either. I am just paranoid since I read so many bad experiences with chrysler service centers.

 

Well, you read my story---good luck with the service center. Try the disconnect before AAA. Just disconnect the (-) side and wait a few seconds and then reconnect. See what you get.

 

Turn the key to the run position, then see if the radio or lights will come on. If not, put jumper cables on it and try the same test. That will eliminate the battery.

 

I'll put money on the battery.....

 

Well the warranty starts when the car is put into service, so look at your build date to see when the car was actually built. It may have been built late summer of 06. Some people say you're lucky to get 3 years out of a battery.
Since your car has such low mileage, it means that it must sit a great deal of time, and that can be murder on batterys too.
Call AAA, and have it flat bedded to your dealer before the warranty runs out, and maybe you can at least get a new battery out of them.
My battery died just a few days before the warranty ran out, and they replaced it for free. But the car was over 4 years old, and a little over 30k miles.
Good Luck

 

I love my car but more important are the people on this forum -- they are the best. Everything worked out, it was a dead battery and after driving the car a little while the BAS/ESP light went out.

Thanks to everyone for all your help.