Just curious to know if in fact any Crossfire owners abide by that bit of information provided in the owners manual? If not, what interval in miles does everyone feel comfortable in changing their oil. I only have 200 miles on it but would like some feedback as I approach that mark later on.

 

I performed my first change at 3,200 and plan to change it every 5,000. There have been other posts about the benefits and the potential environmental impact of changing TOO frequently.

BTW, I used a vacuum canister to change the oil. Didn't spill a single drop. Neat.

 

Does that mean that you used a vacuum to remove the oil through the dipstick tube? Did you also change the filter? If so is it in a difficult spot to get to? Did you use Mobil 1 synthetic? I used to change my own oil and filter all of the time, but have gone soft with advancing years. Thanks - Bob

 

In the service coupon book they gave me I have a coupon for an oil change every 3k miles as well as the normal service coupons for the every 7k service and oil change. Chrysler is going to go broke changing my oil. lol.

 

I used the Topside MVP vacuum canister made specifically for this type of thing. After warming the engine for a few minutes, you pump the air out of the canister and place a tube down the dipstick tube then suck out the oil.

It took a couple of cycles (pump/suck) but only took about 10 or 15 minutes.

The oil filter is mounted on top of the engine - black round cap on front of engine. The filter is a cartridge that mounts inside the engine. I used a filter "B" wrench to remove the filter. The filter kit includes the filter and several rubber gaskets.

I bought the Topsider at a boat supply store. Yes, I did use Mobil 1, 0-40 which I found at Autozone I believe.

I had given up on changing my own oil too but this is the easiest oil change I've ever done.

 

I do not recommend using this technique for changing the oil. Sludge and metal particles from the engine go down and collect in the oil pan. These are not flushed out by using the suction technique. That's one of the main things that you need to do to keep the engine healthy...not leaving that debris behind! So warm the engine oil first...remove the filter next...to get all the old oil out...then drain from bottom plug to flush out all contaminents.

Ben

 

Every 4k like clockwork.

 

I thought this is what the FSS was for?

 

I originally agreed with BRappaport, that the only way to properly change the oil was drain it out the oil pan. However, after doing a little checking around and experimenting with the TopSider I agree with X-fired and use the TopSider and change my oil and filer every 4k-5K miles. I found out that most of the dealers now use vacuum method and through my own experience I have found that I reclaim more oil using the TopSider. I am assuming the reason I am getting more oil is because the ramps have the car at a slope when I drain the pan. By the way I initially found the first mention of using the TopSider on the MB forum. Personally, I don't think either method is going to jeopardize or extend the life of your vehicle. I believe the key is frequent oil and filter changes so that the contaminates are suspended in the oil and get deposited on the filter.

 

Question: Is it a problem that the topsider holds 8 quarts, but the engine holds 8.5 quarts?

 

Helm, the first 3 oil changes I did between 3,000 and 3,500 miles. The 4th. one I went nearly to 6,000 miles before I changed it, but it sat for about a week (with out being started) before I did it, and when I started it up to warm it up, I heard what sounded like lifter noise, (which eventually went away) I never heard it before when I was changing oil every 3k.
So on Sunday with about 4,000 miles on the 5th oil change, I started it up for the first time since the first part of Jan. and I heard no lifter sound at all even though it's been sitting 2.5 months. I performed the 6th oil change with 20,800 miles on my car now. I think I'm going to stick to the 4,000 mile "oil change" routine, and I only put 8 qts. in. (it's better to be a little under, than it is to over fill). Some people have noticed when they put 8.5 qts back in. their read out shows it's too full.
I always use Mobil 1, 0w40, and I purchase my oil filters at my nearest Mercedes dealer. Just tell them it's for an SLK 3.2. They're about $21.00. Some people use aftermarket filters which are cheaper, some buy them at the Chrysler dealer, I prefer using a "factory" oil filter on all my cars, and in this case "factory" means Mercedes.
I'm old fashion when it comes to draining my oil, so I do it from underneath.
I don't even need to jack the car up. I simply pull the front tires up onto a 2"X10" board that I place under both front tires. This gives me enough room to remove the 4 bolts that hold the big plastic shield that protects the bottom of the engine. I think it took a (11/16" socket). The oil drain plug takes a #13 metric socket and is on the passenger side of the oil pan. While under the car I noticed the "flat bottomed" oil pan looks as though it's perfectly horizontal with the floor, in both directions side to side and front to back, and I'm satisfied that I'm getting a very complete oil drain. If you're concerned it's not draining completely, you could always add an extra inch to the drivers side board/ramp.
The biggest thing to remember is when you replace the O-Rings on the oil filter bayonet, is to make sure you put them all back in the same exact location. The top one, which is also the largest, is the one that's the easiest to misplace because there is a smaller ridge just above the actual ridge where it's supposed go. If you put it in the wrong location and tighten the oil filter back down, it will not seal properly. Then when you start the engine, it will receive a high pressure oil bath. (It has happened to a few forum members in the past) even after the dealer did the oil change.
As it's been said, this is one of the easiest cars to change the oil and filter, no matter which method you choose.
Sometimes Wal-Mart will have the right Mobil 1, but AutoZone usually always does. I've read where some members say 0w40 has been discontinued, I haven't actually tried to find any lately so I can't say for sure, one way or the other.
Good Luck.

 

I always use the FSS schedule and did for the last Mercedes I owned too. Your Crossfire has a very sophisticated MB engine management system and the FSS notification you get is the result of many perimeters. Changing your oil early can't hurt but IMHO it's unnecessary. I always use Mobil 1 and the correct factory filter.

 

I have a friend who used to sell Mercedes-Benzs and is now a Jaguar dealer manager with the same chain. The MB service department there only used topside oil vacuums on all MBs serviced. Not sure if all MB service departments do it, but I have heard it is standard procedure for them.

 

Time is money, and I'm sure it saves time. But it doesn't necessarily mean it's better.

 

Yeah I heard Mercedes uses the canister pump also so it has to be good.

There won't be particles at the bottom if you run the engine for a minute. Everything will suspend while you pump out the oil.

Also be careful because my dad was doing mine the other day and he tried to pump the oil out into the empty oil containers. Too much pressure built up and blew a hose off, spewing hot oil EVERYWHERE. Messy.