Does anybody here know where I can find a pinout diagram of the Crossfire's yaw sensor (or Dynamic Sensor Supply, I think that's the DC term)?

Simply, does anyone know which wire is the positive power supply out of the 5 wires? The colors are: solid brown, green with yellow, solid green, solid white, red with green.

I'm going to cut the power wire and fab up a switch so I can mount it in the interior for switching the yaw sensor on and off easily.

 

Out of the 5 choices you have you can automatically eliminate the solid brown(brown=ground on euro cars)................so you can go from there with a test light. Test ignition off each wire and see if they light up..........then test ignition ON and see what ligthts up.

 

Ignition was off with the key out and none of them lit up with my test light.

Ignition on, motor at idle: One wire set off my test light... (1) Red and Green striped wire.

I take it this is the positive power wire?

 

correct, that is the power sourse and it means the sensor is only active with ignition on.

 

thanks, moparbust!

I'm gonna find a switch and do some slice and splice. Will get back to you when finished.

 

so yeah I fabbed up the switch and put everything back together, but after the beat run, even with the yaw sensor disconnected completely, traction control and all those other fancy doohickeys were still operating.

What gives???

 

I am guessing that the wire that you thought was the "power" was really the input from the steering angle sensor. With the ignition on this would be the wire showing a voltage.

 

so what is my next course of action?

I completely removed the plug from the yaw sensor and the TCS and ESP all that stuff is still active.

 

Yeah. That has been the issue all along. These systems are pretty complex.,all these sensors are interconnected and work together. That is why you hear people pulling fuses. But that defeats the entire system...desired and undesired features.
I know there is someone that did a pretty good job of disabling some feature on the LX cars. Might be worth checking out on that forum..maybe a lead. lxforums.com .....

This is the LX version, that was developed...here www.NoESP.com

 

I completely eliminated the traction control on my Charger by splicing a toggle switch into the proper wire at the ABS unit...........but the "ESP/BAS" light is always on on the dash. It's a small price to pay to have full control over the way the car acts/reacts. I attempted this on the 6 by disconnecting the ESP/BAS power supply at the little power box but it threw the car into limp mode after 5 miles of driving.

 

I was lucky enough to get an "Aug 05 and after" SRT8 so the switch on the dash accomplishes that.
If you disable ABS completely dont you lose the "fake LSD"? I know on the SRT8 even disabled, the one feature that stays on is the LSD simulation.

 

My dad was the one that showed me that thread (he has a 300C SRT-8). He's badseed1 on the LX forums, too haha.

I don't get it. I've looked through loads of threads and they say if you remove that freakin' plug, you're as good as gold. Why am I stuck with Big Brother?

 

Mine was built 4/06 and the switch on the dash only backs off the ESP by 20% with a single touch and 80% if you hold the button down for 8 seconds or so. You are correct about not being able to disable the "electronic limited slip" rearend.

 

ESP YAW RATE/LATERAL ACCELERATION SENSOR - 6 WAY

1-DG CAN (-)
2-WT CAN (+)
3-RD/DG 5 VOLT SUPPLY
4--
5-BR SENSOR GROUND
6-BL/YL STEERING ANGLE SENSOR SIGNAL

 

wouldn't a smarter design incorporate a rehostat, to increase or decrease resistance to the signal or output signal wire, that tells the computer how sideways you are?

I don't think cutting power will do much, as when I turn off the TC control the car allows me to go sideways, what's the point of this?

I think your looking for trouble by doing this, as with most short wheelbase cars, they can spin out easily if pushed hard, and traction lost.

 

right now our cars are severely limited with the ESP crap. If you eliminate traction control and the torque management/braking, I think low 14s are definitely possible. My brother has gotten his 1999 Mustang GT convertible down to 14.2 @ 96.

 

have you pulled the fuses yet?

to test your theory, you can disconnect the center hot lead that powers the ABS,TC system, this will shut off the torque mangament to the open diff.
it's located in the small flip open box next to the ecu or battery, there are battery leads going to it. you could install a simple knife switch on the fender to kill power for drag racing.

this is much simplier than futtsing around with the yaw sensors

 

I want clamp the sensor of the yaw so that it will not know that I am doing a max g turn, shutting me off. pulling the fuses kills the abs and your screwed. If I get to the yaw Iam good to go. WOODY

 

Maybe these folks can do a version for Mercs:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/152_HBM.pdf

 

I believe this is sort of what Woody is working on.