Alright guys what I am trying to do is remove the calipers to install the rotex gold brake pads.. to pain the caliers and to install stainless steel brake lines..

HDDP before you attack me with the search button features I have tried and have stumbled upon Andrew's Guide, but that is a guide for someone who pretty much already knows how to do it.. I don't know what piston clips are... beyond other things..

If anyone can guide me through it.. it would be of much help...

Do I remove the calipers from the rotars first? Do I remove the brake lines from the calipers first? 2 brake lines are attached to the calipers.. I was able to get one loose... the one behind the caliper i am unable to remove...

o and if it matters I have the SRT

Thanks in advance
-Sidez

 

spell check, it's rotors.

um check out the shop manual, it's simple job.

 

Maxwell, your replies are not helpful, but merely arrogant. You had a similar (useless and arrogant) reply to my question also. What's your problem?? Sidez has a legit question. I'm sure he can read the manual, he doesn't need YOU to remind him. Since you claim it's a "simple job" it should be "simple" for you to type out those "simple" steps. Personally, if I'd knew the procedure, I'd just write it and post, rather than give smartass cryptic comments. Is it personally painful for you to help when one asks for it?
If you have nothing to contribute, then leave the keyboard alone.

 

lol sidez hddp would probably help you out with this one not attack you. I would like to know as well because I want to paint my calipers this winter. Also It would be nice to know if when we reconnect everything and bleed the brakes if we need to do anything special. Maxwell is just messing around relax

 

Are you going to remove the calipers to paint - or leave them in?

I pulled mine out, scuffed and painted. The brake pads were a cinch to remove and replace with the calipers on the bench.

I can write up the procedures I used from memory if it will help.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17511

 

I am going on memory here.... I assume you are going to spray paint?

Place XF on 4 jack stands
Remove wheels
Disconnect wheel sensor (Torx screw if I remember)
Disconnect brake lines at frame - use catch can for fluid & two wrenches
Remove the two bolts on back of hub - #17 If I remember
Caliper with pads & brake line will lift off and out
Remove the brakeline from the caliper with assembly on the bench
Front pads are pretty easy to remove
Rear pads you will need use a small punch or screw driver to tap the pins out (any direction) and the pads will fall out.

Good luck - its a full day job - take your time and use a digital camera if you have one to help you with re-assembly.

I suggest using ATE Super Blue Racing Brake fluid
Where did you get your SS brakelines?
What color are you going to paint your calipers?
I used scotch-brite pads to scuff the calipers has they had lots of runs in the black paint.

BB

 

don't get me wrong i love derrick, but he is very dangerous...

 

um... cool thanks for the write up, but take note that i have NEVER done this before and dont even speak english very well.. you lost me on "disconect wheel sensor" what wheel sensor? and "disconect brake lines at frame" what frame? i see 2 brake lines attached to the caliper.. are they removed directly from the caliper or are they removed midway towards it? or elsewhere?

Yes I have purchased ATE Super Blue and the SS Brake lines for $110 on ebay part number 34030 if i recall correctly...
The calipers I plan to powdercoat a glossy red... but not bright red
[/LEFT]

 

The fronts aren't bad and the rears are really easy.

Once the car has the front wheels off and it is on jack stands. I would reccomend pushing the old pads back and the pistons in as far as they will go before removing the caliper. You can do this by prying them back with a screw driver. I think it was a 17mm socket that removed the front calipers. You don't need to remove the rear caliper to change the pads. Just pull the pin and push the pads back like you did in the front and then drop in the new pads and put the pin back in. It is a good idea to used brake pad grease on the back side of the pads, this will keep them from squeaking. When bleeding the brakes start with the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder, right rear, left rear right front, left front.

These are just some points to add to what was written above. If you have never done this it would be best to find a friend that has and have them help you. I agree about Super Blue fluid. I like it because you will see a color change that will let you know you have flushed the old stuff out. your fluid will go from gold to greeen to blue. Get rid of all the bubbles.

 

i personally think if you need this much help describing what to do and etc, you shouldnt tackle this job just yet. brakes are extremely important (!) and while its good you want to get in there and do it, i really think supervision is required here... especially since you are talking about not only bleeding but changing the brake fluid -- thats an important job in itself and shouldnt be guessed at.

good luck with the job!

 

thanks man I think that clears it up...

 

Wheneveryou bleed brakes on an ABS equipped vehicle, you're supposed to use a scan tool (STARScan) to cycle the ABS solenoids. Not cheap, I saw a used one on eBay for 3100$ These solenoids can cycle upwards of 15 times a second so you don't want to have any air in them at all should they be used. Granted ABS is used very infrequently, but when needed, I'm sure you wnat it to work.

Due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid, it's recommended to be flushed every 1-2 years, but when pulling off calipers to paint, this presents a great time to do so as well.

 

One other tip, but may be too late for you is Posi Quiet pads. I have put 4,000 miles on them and they are awsome pads! No dust, no noise, and really good stopping. If you buy them in the right place they are half the cost of Rotex.

 

This is not needed. I used to sell and install my own big brake kits and this was never an issue at least for the Mini Cooper with the BMW system. There are tons of opinions that have been written, but no actual problems that I have heard of. One thing I like to do after flushing brake fluid is to go out and slam on the brakes a few times to activate and cyle the anti-lock system.

 

I guess I should add smiley faces at the end of my post so that I don't offend the sensitive.

so whats the problem Sidez, is there some kinda snafu that's not described in the manual?

Also you should purchase a posistive pressure brake bleeder as that's the only way you should bleed your brakes
http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0100-Eu...7827110&sr=8-3
!

 

LMFAO @ maxwell ^^^


Good luck with the install bro! You'll love those SS brake liines...

 

Just saying what All-Data was saying. I try to use All-Data @ school to not burden this site with questions that may be contrued as silly or stupid newbie stuff to avoid the above posts.

I just did the flush on my "new" or at least "slightly used" Xfire @ school about 2 weeks ago.

 

I tend to agree...I have replaced the brake pads on several other cars I've owned, but not my Crossfire yet. Can someone tell me whether one MUST disconnect the brake lines to just replace the pads? With my other cars, you could just remove the calipers from the rotors and hang them from a frame member with a wire or cord while the pads are exchanged. Perhaps that's not possible with the Crossfire.

 

Same with the Crossfire in the front. The rears will be easier than anything you have ever worked on, with no caliper removal or screwing the piston back in like most rear calipers.

 

Thanks guys there is quiet a bit of stuff I am installing well.. over $5000 ill post pictures and some reviews when I am done, but it will be a while heh..

i never heard of the brake pad sensor before.. did not know our cars had it..