Need Help Fellas
Re: Need Help Felllas
Cool!
Glad between us all... we confused and educated you.. LOL.
At least now you have a clear plan of action.
Just a thought.. if you haven't unplugged the tweeters.. I would definitely do so to keep from pissing the amp off.. It just might decide it's warned you enough and say adios .. LOL.
Glad between us all... we confused and educated you.. LOL.
At least now you have a clear plan of action.
Just a thought.. if you haven't unplugged the tweeters.. I would definitely do so to keep from pissing the amp off.. It just might decide it's warned you enough and say adios .. LOL.
Re: Need Help Felllas
I may be a day late and a dollar short here, but in order to run the tweeters directly from the head unit, you are going to have to wire the factory amp to be driven by RCA outputs on the head unit. This will require some wiring modifications to the factory amp wiring, and while you are there you may as well seperate the front and rear inputs and use both sets of RCA outputs to tailor the sound even more to your taste. Its not difficult, just a bit time consuming.
The way I did it was just get a set of RCA cables that was made for connecting a 4 channel amp to a 4 channel deck. I clipped one end of the connectors off and wired that directly to the factory amp after tracing the wiring, using the same diagram I believe Max posted up earlier. Then just take the front speaker output from the deck and run new wires to your tweeters in the doors. Disconnect the factory wiring to those speakers so you don't have 2 sources trying to power at the same time. It may be a real pain in the butt trying to get the staging/fading adjusted properly that way though. Remember the factory amp has speed adjusting volume, so the door speakers and the factory subs will get louder the faster you go, while the tweeters will not.
Another option is to wire the Kappa speaker and tweeter in series, thereby increasing its ohms value. It will require modifying the factory wiring, but shouldn't be hard to accomplishmat all. Its fairly easy once you understand the concept. You will take the factory positive input and connect it to the positive side of the Kappa woofer. You will take the factory negative input and connect it to the negative side of the new tweeter. You will take a new, seperate wire and connect it from the negative side of the woofer to the positive side of the tweeter. Bam, wire in series, bringing ohms up to probably 8. System is happy, you are happy, minimal mods speed volume adjustment works on all speakers. Easily reversible too.
The way I did it was just get a set of RCA cables that was made for connecting a 4 channel amp to a 4 channel deck. I clipped one end of the connectors off and wired that directly to the factory amp after tracing the wiring, using the same diagram I believe Max posted up earlier. Then just take the front speaker output from the deck and run new wires to your tweeters in the doors. Disconnect the factory wiring to those speakers so you don't have 2 sources trying to power at the same time. It may be a real pain in the butt trying to get the staging/fading adjusted properly that way though. Remember the factory amp has speed adjusting volume, so the door speakers and the factory subs will get louder the faster you go, while the tweeters will not.
Another option is to wire the Kappa speaker and tweeter in series, thereby increasing its ohms value. It will require modifying the factory wiring, but shouldn't be hard to accomplishmat all. Its fairly easy once you understand the concept. You will take the factory positive input and connect it to the positive side of the Kappa woofer. You will take the factory negative input and connect it to the negative side of the new tweeter. You will take a new, seperate wire and connect it from the negative side of the woofer to the positive side of the tweeter. Bam, wire in series, bringing ohms up to probably 8. System is happy, you are happy, minimal mods speed volume adjustment works on all speakers. Easily reversible too.
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Re: Need Help Fellas
I'm wondering about just what the impedance of the speakers really is. And with them in series, crossover design is problematic as well.
What do you guys who do this all the time DO? I can speak in theory about impedance, power transfer, ohm's law, crossovers, etc. but I don't set up these systems, so my PRACTICAL knowledge is weak.
What do you guys who do this all the time DO? I can speak in theory about impedance, power transfer, ohm's law, crossovers, etc. but I don't set up these systems, so my PRACTICAL knowledge is weak.
Re: Need Help Fellas
If wire in series like I described the crossover ('filter') "should" only affect the tweeter as theory goes that power flows from positive to negative. According to theory the power should flow through the woofer before going through the tweeter. Speakers operated on pulsating DC current so power only flows one direction.
Theory says anyway.....
As far as impedance values, I am only throwing out a guess, but generally amplifiers can handle more resistance than spec better than less resistance than spec (ie. 8ohm rated amp will run 16ohms fine versus having problems running 4ohms). This is only a general guidline and varies based on specific amp circuits.
Theory says anyway.....
As far as impedance values, I am only throwing out a guess, but generally amplifiers can handle more resistance than spec better than less resistance than spec (ie. 8ohm rated amp will run 16ohms fine versus having problems running 4ohms). This is only a general guidline and varies based on specific amp circuits.
Last edited by MoparFreak69; 08-18-2013 at 08:57 PM.
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Re: Need Help Fellas
If wire in series like I described the crossover ('filter') "should" only affect the tweeter as theory goes that power flows from positive to negative. According to theory the power should flow through the woofer before going through the tweeter. Speakers operated on pulsating DC current so power only flows one direction.
As far as impedance values, I am only throwing out a guess, but generally amplifiers can handle more resistance than spec better than less resistance than spec (ie. 8ohm rated amp will run 16ohms fine versus having problems running 4ohms). This is only a general guidline and varies based on specific amp circuits.
And the amount of air restriction behind the cone (because it limits the cone's travel) will cause the impedance of the coil to change as well. The limits on travel cause, as does the travel itself, interaction between the voice coil's magnetic field and the magnetism of the cone's material as they move in relation to one another.
But a lower impedance than the amp is designed for IS considered "too much of a load" because the lower impedance causes more current to flow - the the amp certainly won't like that. Also, this increased current means more heat dissipated in the output circuit of the amp (current flowing thru resistance means heat, more current, more heat.)
Re: Need Help Fellas
You are no dummy, you sure saved me on the speed-sensitive thing above, but this is wrong. Speakers are fed AC current. Always. Never an exception. There SOMETIMES is a DC bias voltage there, but what makes the speaker cone go in and out is AC. One polarity of the AC causes the cone to go out, the opposite polarity causes it to go in.
There is the possibility of doing a series/parallel connection, but thats when things get craaaaaazy!
Re: Need Help Fellas
Rockford Fosgate PP8-T Punch Pro 1-1/2" tweeter with 8-ohm voice coil at Crutchfield.com
Easy fix for this.. 8 ohm tweeter?
Half price sale.. LOL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKFORD-FOS...-/330912463078
Easy fix for this.. 8 ohm tweeter?
Half price sale.. LOL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKFORD-FOS...-/330912463078
Last edited by Mrmiata; 08-19-2013 at 07:44 AM.
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Re: Need Help Fellas
Well, the most successful audio mods are done by those who replace the head, amp, most/all wiring and speakers.
In other words, they start over from scratch with a total new design and system.
My problem is I have never modded my sound (other than running the GMRS radio thru the sounds system for the Dragon, using the Telephone mute/audio jacks on the NAV head). I have little business advising anyone - as my forgetting about the speed-sensitive amplifier feature testifies to.
In other words, they start over from scratch with a total new design and system.
My problem is I have never modded my sound (other than running the GMRS radio thru the sounds system for the Dragon, using the Telephone mute/audio jacks on the NAV head). I have little business advising anyone - as my forgetting about the speed-sensitive amplifier feature testifies to.
Re: Need Help Fellas
Mr Miati: Hold onto those cites you provided that just may be my easy way out of this quagmire that keeps building and building and buil.....................
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Re: Need Help Fellas
Hey...., exactly WHAT Kappas are you running?
If they are two-way and have a small tweeter and crossover - the door tweeters are kinda overkill. I'd just disconnect the door tweeters and see how it sounds.
I ask cause SOME Kappa models have a nice tweeter in them already.
I ask this becuase I found a set I like that have tiny tweeters and are 2 ohm -you don't want to put ANYTHING in there with those, as your impedance would be well below 2 ohms and the amp can't possibly like THAT. I'd bet the ones I found would out perform what is in my car now, which is factory.
If they are two-way and have a small tweeter and crossover - the door tweeters are kinda overkill. I'd just disconnect the door tweeters and see how it sounds.
I ask cause SOME Kappa models have a nice tweeter in them already.
I ask this becuase I found a set I like that have tiny tweeters and are 2 ohm -you don't want to put ANYTHING in there with those, as your impedance would be well below 2 ohms and the amp can't possibly like THAT. I'd bet the ones I found would out perform what is in my car now, which is factory.
Last edited by pizzaguy; 08-20-2013 at 12:47 PM.
Re: Need Help Fellas
I need help as well. After about a month of reading the forums, I decided to replace my 2 blown door speakers In my 2004 Crossfire. I left factory everything and from suggestions I have read here, I bought kappas. After installing them my battery would no longer start my car even after I would jump the battery and run the car for awhile. So I bought a new battery and car starts fine. But now I noticed my front speakers will just cut out while the rear factory subs stay on. Than I shut the head unit off than back on and I have sound back for maybe 5 minutes depending on how it feels. Do I need a bigger amp or what is wrong? I love the new kappas sound great when they work ty.
Re: Need Help Fellas
I need help as well. After about a month of reading the forums, I decided to replace my 2 blown door speakers In my 2004 Crossfire. I left factory everything and from suggestions I have read here, I bought kappas. After installing them my battery would no longer start my car even after I would jump the battery and run the car for awhile. So I bought a new battery and car starts fine. But now I noticed my front speakers will just cut out while the rear factory subs stay on. Than I shut the head unit off than back on and I have sound back for maybe 5 minutes depending on how it feels. Do I need a bigger amp or what is wrong? I love the new kappas sound great when they work ty.
I called Crutchfield and they said the factory amp is underpowering the Kappas, or the Kappas are too powerful for the amp, and when the amp is overloaded it sends out the clipping. they recomended I buy a more powerful amp, of course.
Can any one else chime in on this and let me know if I really need to get a more powerful amp or am I experiencing some other problem Thanks
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