I'm having the notorious "3 strikes and you're out" symptom but it's NOT the SKREEM.

My car was running perfectly fine until I go out one morning and it cranks, starts, runs for less than a second and then dies. Three times and then nothing, not even the starter will turn with the key. I unhook the battery and repeat the cycle just to make sure and get the same result. It's consistent and repeatable. After reading post after post (and trying some cheaper fixes first), I contacted Needswings and was assured it was in fact the SKREEM, guaranteed. I buy a new one from them, including a new transponder ring, install both and still, same problem. $800 gone. I then send the whole system (with new SKREEM) to SOS Diagnostics, have them test it and was told there was nothing wrong with my ECM/SKREEM/keys and everything was programmed properly and functioning well, proven in their test car. Now I'm just trying anything else that seems related.

I have re-soldered the fuel relay connections on the RCM thinking maybe that's it? It wasn't.

I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Also, not the problem.

I'm really hoping someone has some ideas because I'm all out, please help! All suggestions welcomed.

 

Well, what you describe, is the SKREEM not telling the ECM that it's "Ok to start".

So, if you changed the SKREEM and ring and it still won't start - why would the NEW SKREEM also not work? Well, if the RFID chip in the key fob is bad or missing, you'd get these symptoms. Have you replaced the key fob? Did you run the key fob thru the washer by accident? Do you have a second key you can try?

Other than that, I suppose it COULD be the ECM, they RARELY go bad, but if it is not operating right in that it can't interpret the SKREEM data, I suppose that could be it, but ECM failures are just so extremely rare, I just can't imagine that is it.

 

I think it is , if you read all the post (don't have to ,i'll tell you what they say) there are over 50 post that say i re soldered my rcm and still have the same problem including MYSELF. so get a new one for over 100 dollars or send yours to tighed1 for a lot less he will fix it,, I say your problem is the RCM .
,email him for the cost tighed1@hotmail.com
send it to
TIGHED1
3601 Pinnacle Ct
Sierra Vista, AZ 85650

 

Sometimes the solder joints may be good but the relays are bad.

 

Disconnect the electrical plug on the MAF. The car is designed to run (all be it not well) without it. If it then runs, this will indicate that a new MAF will solve the problem. Search for a similar thread posted by me in 2018.


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...w-seconds.html

 

I went to solder my board but after I finished I had two of the plugs to fall out of the plugs...I need help and don't have a clue to start a thread!

 

Dont worry about starting a new thread - can you post a photo of what is going on?
"plugs to fall out of the plugs" does not quite tell us what is going on. One picture can clear it all up.

 

I removed the RCM to solder the connections and went back to reinstall it...I had unlatched the tabs that hold the wires in place for the two front connectors. I have searched and searched and can't find anything that shows me the connector clearly.Will someone take a photo of your RCM and make my day!!

 

 

What is the gas pressure on the fuel rail ? Should be about 58 psi.

 

Open the rcm.
Turn the key to the ON position.
Two of the middle relays should be energized (engaged).
Are they?

 

Fuel pressure was checked and is at 56 psi.

Looking at the rcm and turning the key on does engage two of the center relays. It actually engages the three center ones on start but one opens after a second. (Manually closing it does not keep the car running)

I installed a brand new, fully charged battery.

I pulled the engine cover off and tried to keep the car running (even momentarily) by spraying fuel directly into the intake to see if the car was cutting fuel and I couldn't keep it running, so apparently it's cutting spark.

Thanks for all the replies so far. All help is much appreciated!

 

 

I am glad you checked all of the keys. This does have the classic symptoms of bad SKREEM. Since PIZZAGUY knows the entire start sequence we might need a refresher. Pure logic and process of elimination still come back to the SKREEM. Here is why; the third try and no crank. If this were some other component the SKREEM would register the key as good and continue to let the car try to start but since it is disabling the further attempts you have to look at all the SKREEM does to prove it has the correct key and is able to tell the rest of the starting process to continue past the 3 tries. IE, bad CPS still allows the user to crank and crank and crank as many times as needed but no CPS signal no start. No fuel pressure no start but cranks like mad. Etc. Etc. The 3 tries and done point TO the SKREEM.

Did you perhaps swap the key antenna for the FOB unlock/lock antenna at the SKREEM? Not even sure if that is possible with connector types.

Does your trunk have water around the locking module? It may tell the SKREEM there is a fault kick the user from starting.

Rodents in the car? That will do weird stuff!

I am certain this is the SKREEM telling the car to stop the starting process but it's some external component telling it to. (like swapped antennas)

 

The plugs are identical but mirror images of one another, so they cannot be swapped.

 

Per the pinouts shown on Service Manual Pages 8W-80-62 and 8W-80-63:

1. SKREEM Connector C1 (the big one) pin 6 is the RKE Antenna and pin 7 is its shield
2. Connector C2 (the white 2 pin) is the CAN connection
3. Connector C3 (the black 2 pin) is the SKREEM Sentry Key antenna

So, you CAN'T swap antennas; they are Murphy proof.

 

 

Is the fuel pressure maintained after the relay opens?

The fuel filter has a check valve which is supposed to maintain the pressure between the time the relay opens and the engine starts. If its bad the pressure will drop off, the engine will not run and the filter needs to be replaced. Turn the ignition on and confirm the fuel pressure is maintained after the initial build up and before the starter is engaged.

 

Have you ever seen the "start error" on the dash display?

"Connected to the SKREEM is a Sentry Key Antenna Ring which surrounds the ignition lock cylinder. When the ignition is switched on, the Sentry Key Antenna Ring is sup- plied with power. A data block is transmitted inductively via the Sentry Key Antenna Ring to the SKREEM and then on to the Powertrain Control Module. If the antenna ring data block content is invalid or if vehicle battery power is too low to build up enough power for the antenna ring, the Powertrain Control Module will not receive the proper signal. This is displayed with the message “Start Error” in the Instrument Cluster."

Have you measured this?

"SKREEM TERMINATION
With the ignition off.
Measure the resistance of the SKREEM CAN C Bus termination by back probing the CAN C Bus (+) circuit to the CAN C Bus (-) circuit at the SKREEM C2 harness connector.

Is the resistance between 110 and 130 ohms?" C2 is just a data connection. Are those wires good? Not crushed anywhere?

Or the connectivity between SKREEM and PCM?
"CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPENWith the ignition off.

Measure the resistance of the CAN C Bus (-) circuit from the SKREEM C2 pin 1 harness connector to the PCM C4 pin 11 harness connector. Also C2 pin 2 to PCM C4 pin 1.

Is the resistance below 5.0 ohms?"

Is the ground near the SKREEM tight?

 

Yea! So that leaves the only thing here is something SKREEM related since we have the two tries and nor crank symptoms.