2004 Chrysler Crossfire. I know the locks are an issue with this car. I have searched, did some reading, but didn't find anything that quite matched my situation. So here we go:

Locks: will unlock, won't lock.

Key fob: lock button will not lock driver's or passenger's lock, or fuel door or trunk. If doors are locked manually, unlock button will unlock them both with 1 press. When unlock button is pressed, you can hear the vacuum pump in the back activate and unlock. When lock button is pressed, cannot hear it activate. You can see the lights flash from the outside when either button is pressed. But only unlocking/locking happens with unlock button. Can't tell if unlock will unlock the fuel door or trunk due to not manually locking them or knowing how.

Central console lock/unlock button: nonfunctional. Lock does not lock anything. Unlock unlocks nothing.

I replaced the vacuum pump in the trunk today. Previously, nothing would lock or unlock by either the key fob or central console button. Replacing the pump at least got me to unlocking. Replaced the number 9 fuse, no change. Checked the trunk area where the pump was located. It's bone dry.

So...any idea where to go from here?

 

You say it was bone dry but water could have been in there two years ago that has now corroded something to the point of causing strange symptoms. I recall one post where they guy had to take the plastic housing off the module before he saw the circuit board with green stuff growing on it to find the cause.

Have you disconnected the electrical connectors at the locking module? How do they look? Check all grounds near each module. In the trunk I think there are three points. The SKREEM ground can be seen on the left side of car, with interior fuse panel door removed up under the dash.

Do you know your way around a schematic and voltmeter? The link to the manuals can be found in the TSB's how to section of the forum.

Water damage is really the most common cause.

 

The center console only locks on the roadster, not the coupes.

I assume manual locking is pushing down the passenger side button and using the key to lock the drivers door, does this lock the trunk hatch door? I assume the answer to this question is no.

Using the key to lock or unlock the car will normally activate all the locks without using any radio signals, so if the key does not activate all locks the problem will lay in the wiring or another module. I have to think about it some more.

 

Water could possibly be the reason. I only purchased the car four months ago, so can't say if water was or wasn't in the trunk before then. I know it doesn't leak and hasn't had water since my purchase, but no clue about beforehand.

Also, can you clarify what you mean by "locking module"? If you mean the vacuum pump in the trunk, that was replaced this morning. I'll go check the connectors again though, just to be on the safe side. If you're referring to another module, I'll need the proper name for my google-fu to work right on it.

*edit*

Went and checked the connectors going in to the vacuum pump. Dusty, duct tape bundling the three yellow lines has about had it, but no signs of rust. Feh.

Yes, that's correct. Pushing the passenger side lock down, using the key to lock the driver side. This does not lock the trunk hatch or the fuel door.

 

If you use the key does it unlock the car totally?
The duct tape would indicate that someone has been there before you and I would assume that they were trying to solve some problem.
Here are two pictures of the module and trunk with no bundling. How does your trunk compare?

 

Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM), did you replace the entire module or just the "pump"?

The console switch drives the Body Control Module that talks CAN bus to the CLP/SSM that actuates the pneumatic lines.

The remote FOB sends radio signal to the SKREEM so the SKREEM via CAN bus tells the Body Control Module to talk to the CLP/SSM via CAN bus that actuates the pneumatic lines. Maybe isolating the symptoms to the physical components will help DX the issue.

 

The Crossfire is very democratic.
You have to have a committee that then spawns a study group which then returns results to the committee which then hopefully makes the correct decision about something.
It's a CAN -do system that can make you SKREEM !
Reminds me, my BODY CONTROL MODULE tells me it is time to go perform an emissions purge.

 

PLEASE, remember to turn off or disconnect all O2 sensors when doing this purge!!!

 

Read this thread because my 2005 Roadster had a problem with the passenger door and trunk lid not latching when I bought it. Started working on it today. No evidence of water ever being in the area. Before replacing the pump, take a small screwdriver and release the 3 vacumn lines and switch positions. All 3 ports work and it is now obvious that I have a leak somewhere in the line itself (trunk and passenger door latch are on the same line with a small tee in the line ". Pump ain't the problem. Will apply air later today and listen for leak.

 

p
The weak spot is the air line that enters the trunk lid. It breaks inside the corrugated tube that the hose passes through on its way to the trunk lid latch. This line is flexed every time the trunk lid is opened, replace the hose if you can with urethane hose not vinyl hose. This weak spot is on the coupe and roadster.

 

Checked that spot in the convoluted tubing and it checked out okay, but thanks because I can now see where it would fatigue there. So next I used a pair of needle nose vice grip to pinch off the 2 lines where they "tee". First pinching off the line to trunk latch made no change in door latch, but pinched off line to door
latch and trunk latch started working! So now my leak is between tee and door latch. I think I'll start inside the door.

 

j
The next likely spot is in the corrugated hose to the door, as it flexes there as well. These hoses are getting a bit ancient and brittle so replacement is a good idea if possible.

 

Inside the door.

 

Nice! Thank you!