Hi! All,
O.K. I am Aussie living Perth Western Australia.
My 2006 coupe has some serious issues going on. The alarm siren was going off by itself, so I opened it, as always battery acid had taking out the circuit board. So I got a new one part #A 219 820 32 26 a Mercedes replacement SLK 320. I plug it in and put fuse 9 back in. Car will not start, nothing, only get the battery light on the dash. Put new batteries in the key fob, no flashing lights nothing. Unplugged the siren and removed fuse 9 nothing at all. The car battery is 3 months old din 65.
Can manually lock the car but rear hatch will not lock.
Any answers to this problem, besides a box of matches and claim insurance.
I think the alarm module is stuffed. There is no tech here in Perth only dim wits.
Will the computer system need reprograming?

 

Nothing you said indicates any sort of "reprogramming" needed.
I would try re-soldering the 3 trouble spots on the RCM / K40 module, or replacing it.
Also spray all the relay contacts in it with electrical contact cleaner while you have it open.

Also carefully check the negative battery connection to the frame ground point.

 

Just to make sure that the terminology used is what we assume you mean.
1. The engine does not rotate when the ignition is turned?
2, Forget the fob batteries, they only power the remote locking, let's get the engine running before we worry about the fob.
3, Do you only get the battery light on the dash? Usually all the other dash lights come on as well.
4, When you manually lock the car does the passenger side lock as well? If it does the locking module in the trunk may be OK. The common reason for the trunk not to lock is because of a leak in the air line from the locking module to the trunk lock. Sometimes the passenger side locks and sometimes not, it depends on the size of the leak. The broken area of the line is usually in or near the rubber boot at the top of the hatch on the passenger side. Fix that leak and if the air/vacuum is present the hatch should open and close when using the key.

But let's get the car going first. Hopefully it is just a poor connection as ala_xfire says.Batteries do die due to internal shorts no matter their age.

 

My limpne occurred when I first met my wife. Still go limp in the knees sometimes when I see her ......

 

I did the post on my iPad mini and that auto fill is murder. My wife says my single finger typing is fast but at times the auto fill is faster.
Thanks for the correction, keep it up.

 

To all,
Will try your suggestions and we see what happens.
The engine does not fire at all or cranks nothing. Only light on the dash is the battery light, no others.
As for manual locking only the drives door (this car is right hand drive) Rear hatch door does lock off the interior central locking button on the center console switches. Passenger door you have to push the door lock **** down and close the door.
Only problem with burning the car it is mid summer here total fire ban. No angle grinders, no bbq's, no welding, no nothing. 40c degrees tomorrow.

 

Just by the battery there is a little fuse box that has very large fuses in it, I am not too familiar with it at all. It is in front of the battery and beside the windshield washer fill tune on LH drive cars. If a fuse in there is blown then not much works.
You could also have bad contacts on one or both battery cables, even the copper wire inside the cable insulation has been known to get eaten by battery acid. Check the main grounds as well.
Forty degrees, that is hot, we gripe when it gets to thirty.

 

I pulled the RCM out checked the circuit board, all fine, no dry joints. But did run circuit board cleaner over it and the soldering iron on it just to be sure.
Car is still the same, still will not start. Just checked the hazard light switch, they are not working, turn signals work.
Got me buggered? Must be the alarm unit, no burps or farts from it.

 

If by alarm unit you mean the siren module, then you can unplug that. ( located center of cowl under the plastic cover )
If you mean the central security and locking pump, then you may be right, it could have gotten wet.
It is under the trunk (boot) floorboard, you have to remove a bunch of trim to get to it.
Just locate the yellow air tubes - they will lead you to it.

Did you check the 3 BIG fuses in the little box in front of the battery ?

 

It starts, it goes. Problem fuse 35, but still no remote locking from the key fob. Key fob has new batteries in it. Yes took out the alarm unit from the rear. (module, different English in Australia. Strange how the English invented the language, but can't speak it!)
Checked the circuit board, all good there.

 

What did you do to make it start?

 

The problem with the car not starting was a dickie fuse #35 in the fuse box. Operates Hazard, dash lights and something else. Change it and it started (there is a god!)
As for the locking still not got a clue. Must be on annual leave or got a pension from the government or if you are black in this country you can sit on your **** for life and get paid for it, with a house. (true)

 

Im home week after next, if you still have issues let me know and I could have a gander ( yes Im english lol). Paul.

 

Good news, alarm working, central locking working.
Problem the key fob stuffed, so I changed the batteries in the second fob and it worked.
A big thank you to everyone helped on this forum, most thankful.

 

You are a jackass.

 

You kiss your mother with that mouth?