of course, he's not giving the XF VIN. it's an acquired SLK320 VIN.

 

I have bought parts from the nearest Mercedes dealer to me (about an hour away)
I always use the Mercedes part number as they don't seem to have a clue there.
I don't know what the guy would do if he actually had to look up a part. He is super glad when he just has to plug a number into his computer.
This is why I am very appreciative of fellow members who include the Mercedes parts numbers in their fixes so I can get them easily.
No one has asked what car it was for and I sure did not volunteer it.
Jim

 

Ditto, NEVER tell a MB parts dept the part you are looking for is for a crossfire. Also, get a VIN number for an SLK-320, some of them are slick enough to ask for a VIN to see if you actually have an SLK-320. Remember, if it is for an SRT-6, ask for the equivalent AMG model year.


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hmm, looks like I need an SLK320 AMG VIN

 

Correct. You'll also need a Mercedes VIN to place an order with any Mercedes U.S. parts distribution center.
https://mercedespartscenter.com/part...z/SLK320/Base/
VIN for 2004 Mercedes-Benz SLK320: WDBKK65F64F309329 (high mileage) WDBKK65F24F301468 (low mileage) -- I always used the latter VIN.

 

Swapped the 72mm with a 65mm pulley from Poland. Also added LM21 Pulley Brace and Tune from V-tech for the 65mm. Breaks the tires loose from a roll now. So I guess wider tires and a AFR gauge are next.

Might be wrong, but looks like previous owner didnt shim the old pulley properly either. Only had the one from the factory.

 

do you have year model for those?

 

2004

 

You only need one unless you have both (a 3.2 NA and an 3.2 srt-6). The amg32 is the srt-6 partner and the slk320 is the 3.2 NA partner. Good luck!


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I've only had to go to the MB stealership once but i just used a VIN i found off of copart. You can also find them on any salvage auction site. I used Poctra when I was in Ukraine.

Anyways here's one - https://www.classic.com/veh/2004-mer...kgAn?tab=specs

2004 SLK32 VIN - WDBKK66F34F301980

 

Today I installed a different radio. I did my studying and got all the wire RIGHT. There are some posts here that are just plain wrong when it comes to installing an aftermarket sound system.

 

The "problem" with not having a VIN is that many parts sellers have computer systems built around providing the correct parts for a specific car; yours. By beginning the process with your VIN they ensure that every part you're sold is correct for your specific car, including interior colors and any other options on that vehicle.

 

And our AMP is actually a 4 channel AMP and stock wiring only uses 2 channels
This wiring shows how to connect it differently using all 4 channels with our stock AMP
This has been provided by a member here who has done this installation on many of our Crossfires including mine

 

I just searched 2003 SLK 320 for sale, picked one like my roadster and got the VIN for a 2002 convertible with a manual transmission. I use that when I get parts for my roadster.

 

Hey thanks. I just sort of skimmed through it but it is obvious he did his homework.

My installation was great, the radio I selected, not great. I sent it back and because I didn't make any mods to the factory I was able to just plug everything back in.

I'll peruse the file later, if i decide to do the whole 4 ch thing, but thank you very much.

 

I fixed my beginning-to-be sticky key situation and removed the knee bolster.

That key works slick now!

I was leery of the "brute force" method of bolster removal. Since I already had the lower dash panel loose to perform the sticky key, it seemed like a good idea to just go ahead and remove the panel completely and drill out the melted in rivets to remove the bolster. I still ended up with somewhat irregular holes in the dash panel, but I didn't worry about breaking it.

I'm a slow mechanic (plus it takes a little while to get turned around headfirst in the foot well), I started yesterday and finished up this morning before family arrived for Christmas dinner. Kept me out of my wife's way in the kitchen too!

 

My under dash cracked, screws must have loosened up enough it broke tabs around headlight switch which let the vent fall out upon hard acceleration, breaking off those plastic bits... so I got another under dash and correctly tighten all fasteners but the column trim had busted screw hole plastic... filled it with epoxy, countersunk the hole for the screw.
No one will ever know....

 

We will.

 

nice!

 

What am I missing? Bolster/sticky key?